VRTrickster 0 Posted September 2, 2006 Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 Right my rado struggles to stay running when you start it from cold. You have to keep the revs up to keep it running otherwise it just stalls! After its been running a minute or two ,stalling a couple of times it idles but lumpy! Seems to pull fine and has had lots of parts already replaced : (SECOND HAND) COIL PACK MAF ECU INJECTORS (NEW PARTS) OE LEADS PLUGS BLUE TEMP SWITCH CAM POSITION SENDER THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR FUEL FILTER Once the car is running and idling it may cut out occasionally at a junction but the idle seems to drop fairly well. Ive checked that the relays are clicking. They click twice before the key is turned fully with a final click. Ive checked it for air leaks using brake cleaner around the intake/ pipes etc. I have had it on VAG-COM recently when it had this problem and it didn't show anything. I haven't had it on there lately but I will in the next week or so. I have thought maybe fuel pump ,but it doesn't seem to make that much noise ,but I can here it. Would the big yellow temp switch have anything to do with the cold start or running? My dad has ordered a new black and yellow sensor for me anyway! Any advice would be much appreciated as I haven't got much hair left! Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted September 2, 2006 Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 could well be the hose that runs under the airbox/induction kit and have u tried resetting the throttle body? Link to post Share on other sites
VRTrickster 0 Posted September 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 What hoses are you on about? Is it the clear vac hose with the valve? The battery has been disconnected a few times now ,so I dont think its anything to do with the TB resetting etc. Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted September 2, 2006 Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 try reseting it anyway its the hose that runs underneath the airbox Link to post Share on other sites
mk3anni 0 Posted September 2, 2006 Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 The only hose I can recall that runs under the airbox is the one to the charcol canister.If thats the one you mean then your sending thos poor bloke on a wild goose chase. Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted September 2, 2006 Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 i cant remember what it does but when its split it DOES make the car idle like a bag of crap Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted September 2, 2006 Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 deffo try resetting the throttle body it cant hurt u do this by turning the ignition on but dont start the car ukl hear a high pitched buzz comin from tb area it lasts between 5-30 seconds when the noise stops u start the car and thats it Link to post Share on other sites
mk3anni 0 Posted September 2, 2006 Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 Right!!!!His car is ODB1, so no stepper motor, so no buzzing.The pipes under the airbox are a fuel vapour and a vacum hose......they wont make the car run like crap. Link to post Share on other sites
mechanix 0 Posted September 3, 2006 Report Share Posted September 3, 2006 Try puting a jump lead between your negative battery terminal and a good clean bit metal on your engine. could just be a bad earth. although a vacum hose wouldn't cause to much probs from a small pipe far away from the manifold but if its a big leak it would cause the idle to be irratic. check the brake servo pipe and inlet manifold gasket but it sounds like an engine management problem to me. Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted September 3, 2006 Report Share Posted September 3, 2006 Right!!!!His car is ODB1' date=' so no stepper motor, so no buzzing.The pipes under the airbox are a fuel vapour and a vacum hose......they wont make the car run like crap.[/quote']ok about the the obd1 i didnt know if it was the same but im telling theres a hose/pipe than runs next to or under the air filter pipework when it splits its runs like a 3 legged donkey i know as it happened to me when i fitted the schrick Link to post Share on other sites
VRTrickster 0 Posted September 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2006 I think Ive found the problem! After taking the ISV off again to give it another clean I noticed it is actually seized almost shut or open? You can get a screw driver in the top but it doesn't budge at all. Hopefully this is the cause of the problem and then I can start enjoying my new mods and stop complaining about the running! But theres always something else to move onto eh ! How much is it supposed to open? Link to post Share on other sites
mk3anni 0 Posted September 3, 2006 Report Share Posted September 3, 2006 No idea on that one, not had an ODB1 car.Sorry Link to post Share on other sites
VRTrickster 0 Posted September 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 Got a new ISV off my dad discounted as he works for Audi for £130 inc. I think he said it was around £200 retail!So I got a bargain, and it cured the problem so Im well chuffed! Link to post Share on other sites
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