Still rough running with lumpy idle and cut outs !

[VRTrickster 0]

Right Ive sorted the starting problem which was the ISV and have fitted a brand spanker! I thought this would sort all the problems but it hasn't!

Ive still got a quite lumpy idle ,slight kangarooing at low revs and the car seems lethargic when accelerating. The car also still cuts out quite a bit!

Here's a list of what has been replaced or swapped so far :

New Items

264 Cams

Cam sender

Top timing chain

Port match inlet mani

Inlet gaskets

Injector seals

Re pro TB

TPS

ISV

BMC CDA

Lambda probe

Red Beru leads

Spark plugs

Blue temp switch

109 ECU relay

Cam position sensor

Parts swapped with second hand items

Injectors

MAF

Coil pack

ECU

The MPG doesn't seem to be that bad at around 30-35 steady motorway or 20-25 around town. I have started to think maybe the CPS is on its way out ,I did remove it and put it back whilst I was carrying out the work. The fuel pump relay would cause a problem like this would it ? It doesn't seem to bring anything up on VAG COM ,but I haven't tried to check it whilst driving to see if it brings up anything when it cuts out. Have any of you got any ideas as Ive run out of them and am probably going to replace every sensor etc till I cure it! I was also thinking fuel pump ?

HELP PLEASE !!

[Eat this 2]

mpg sounds fine have you cleaned the tb?

[apd 0]

167 is the fuel pump relay-try replacing it?

[Petesvw 0]

http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?136127

[daniles 0]

I've just had a similar problem with mine after putting 268's in. Firstly i would suggest putting it on the VAG com again the problem you may have might be the internal part of the cam sensor which is a magnet, if everythings bless it could be your timing's out. This was what was wrong with mine, it's incredibly difficult to get the timing spot on if your mechanic hasn't done cams on this engine before and can easily be done wrong. The bottom and top chain have to be timed up and the end of the cams have slots which have to be held in the horizontal position by a plastic or metal sheet whislt all the pulleys are at TDC then you tighten up the tensioners. If the mechanic didn't hold the cams with a piece of metal against the flat of the head when tightening the tensioners the cams can pull back slightly which means you could be one or two teeth out or the cams are not aligned together i.e. one cam is slightly rotated to the other. Get the mechanic to check it out for you.

One other thing check your mechanic didn't loosen off the bottom chain if he did the crank pulley and oil pump pulley could be out of sinc. Any questions let me know. Good luck!

[VRTrickster 0]

I have checked the cams after installation to check the marks and even took the gearbox out to have a proper look! When I fitted the cams I was concerned that I couldnt seem to get the cam marks to line up spot on but tried it tooth this way ,tooth that way so that had to be as good as it gets? After running it for a while it had lumpy idle and problems starting in damp which turned out to be the coil ,and idle was lumpy. After speaking to Vince several times for advice I decided to strip it again even further and take the box out. The lower chain I haven't moved and in standard form on the rollers the car was producing I healthy 203 bhp, so Id say it was timed correctly then!

After taking the box off I could see that the flywheel/crank mark and intermediate lined up perfect. The cam marks how ever were slightly out of parallel by a mm or two! I refitted the chain over and over and still the same result! I then tried a new chain and still the same. When putting a long screw driver down number one and feeling for top dead centre and spinning the engine over till its coming up to tdc, I gently turn it to and past ,and the cams seem to line up at the point it gets to the top and starts going down. So I would say that it is timed correctly yes!

It seems fuel related, but I could be totally wrong?

Can anyone shed any more light please ?

[VRTrickster 0]

Ive adjusted the throttle pot, but hasn't changed anything! Its not the reason why its cutting out or running rough. I'm probably going to get a fuel pump relay next week anyway as there are cheap, and then get the fuel pressure tested. Would a faulty relay cause it to cut out? On my vag com the injector on time has been showing 3.90-4.10 ,could this mean that if the fuel pressure is insufficient the ECU will increase the fuel rate like what I'm seeing?

[Petesvw 0]

Not sure about the injector thing, but if you are looking towards the fuel pump relay, pop it out and clean the contacts with a bit of sand paper! Thia should give you an indication if it's knacked or not.

Yes, the relay will make it cut out, as you aint gettin any fuel to the engine.

[VRTrickster 0]

Well the car seems to be running rather well at the minute and idle is acceptable given that Ive fitted high lift cams and lightened flywheel etc.

I'm still going to check the fuel pressure and comp test it the weekend, it will then be ready for the stealth remap YES!

The car hasn't cut out the last couple of times Ive been out, when it normally would have!

The custom remaps really going to tie it all together I think, and I'm hoping for a considerable increase on my standard 204 bhp 189 lb ft.

[mannie 0]

is battery/alternator ok?

[VRTrickster 0]

Well the battery is pretty new and a decent Bosch one. The interior light was left on all night the other day and it started up fine as it does every day.

I think most of the problem could be that it needs a proper custom remap to finish the work off!

[andybg40 0]

Just out of interest, is the fuel pump slightly louder than normal? Mainly at idle as that is when it has maximum return. Sounds like the car may be running lean.

[dellert 0]

Have you reset the ECU by taking the battery off and on again? It stores some settings and uses them as a kind of fail safe in case a sensor fails, so it will still run acceptably. When you remove the battery it will gather this fail safe information again. Given you have changed a lot of parts the current settings would probably be off a bit. Also have you considered the ignition switch, as they are pretty unreliable, my stereo cuts out on some nasty bumps, and I have to wiggle the key to get it back on!