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Roll up,roll up guess the power of this VR.....


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Ok, currently building a mk2 VR6 using an OBD2 2.8

Mods include Dougherty racing 268° cams, Raceland tubular manifold, Unorthodox alloy flywheel,Carbonio CAI. De-cat and a Jetex 2.5" system

I'll no doubt go and have it power tested at Stealth when it's running.

Old 2 litre valver it's got to beat put out 184bhp/145 lb/ft @ Stealth

So, any educated guesses what the VR will kick out??

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I'll be happy with that!

Not posted too much about the swap.

As some of you know, we're in the process converting my mk2 Golf track day car to VR6 power.

ring.jpg

More progress this weekend.

Starting Saturday am, stripped engine, to replace all timing chains,tensioners and guides (guides were worn through to rivets and upper guide was broken ), new thinner steel head gasket, fitted 268° cams + new tappets, *light* Unorthodox racing alloy flywheel,new VAG clutch then slipped on the rebuilt 'box with 3.68 fd and Peloquin ATB (after taking it off again to fit the release bearing and clutch fork.. lol!)

Fitted engine/box into car after chassis rail got 'adjusted' .... Fitted 02J shift tower in O2A 'box, R32 shifter lever etc and shift cables all fitted and adjusted ok. Clutch pipework connected. Air-Oil cooler (with new cooler rad) connected up in same place as it was on the 16v (used the same Mocal sandwich plate and braided lines) with a bit of jiggery pokery. 'Rado VR6 rad fitted in place.

Engine is pretty much wired up, needs manifold wrapping and fitting, and a few other bits and bobs sorting and it can be started.

Oh,flywheel porn pic..

urflywheel.jpg

"Weighs as much as a fart"

Weighs about 6lb (3kg?) stock one weighs 18 lb I believe!

Should rev like a strimmer! :)

2006_0911racelandmanifold0005_small.jpg

2006_0911racelandmanifold0001_small.jpg

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Tracking VR's.... reduce weight.

Pop the battery behind passenger seat or fit a Braille/Deka 15lb battery at the front (normal batts weigh 20Kg upwards).

Dump the OE manifold and short runner it (more weight saved and better performance)

MED top plates for my caster.

Quaife obviously and drop the silly 3.39 diff down to 3.68 (corrado G60).

6 branch you've got - lag it well.

2.5" jetex is good idea for top end

Take limiter up to 7K on chip

Should be good and give about 210-215 because of the extra revs the raised limit and cams will give.

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Kev,remember It's in my mk2 so it'll only weigh 1100kg max with the VR in anyway...

Only has race seats and a cage in it :)

Peloquin diff and a 3.68 FD already in there, running 02J shifter tower and R32 shift lever and cables.

I have to be careful what goes behind the seats as I carry spare wheels with semi-slicks (Toyo R888s) to events.

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Kev' date='remember It's in my mk2 so it'll only weigh 1100kg max with the VR in anyway...

[/quote']

Aye, but it's concentration of weight. Removing a 20kg battery from ahead of the axle and putting it in the boot creates a moment of inertia better for cornering. Done all this in my Corrado and it makes a big difference to turn-in and grip. Just need to lose that stupidly heavy bonnet and replace it with a carbon one for even better results.

Obviously you do need a little weight over the driven wheels for grip though, and I think the VR less all the other accessories is about right personally.

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I might cut the floor out behind the driver seat and build a box so teh battery is flush like an old Mini.

Got a few ideas for the future, one will involve a project not too dissimilar to what you're currently doing.......

Been bitten by the boost bug, with influence from IbiVR and co, and just had a drive in a mate's 340bhp Saphirre Cosworth. Wooooo!!

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Sump is standard for now' date=' need to get a baffled one sorted.

What suspension set up do you have on yours?

[/quote']

weitech coilovers, vr6 front anti roll bar

its a good setup, but i jus now need to concentrate on shifting sum weight to the back. my battery is quite big so thats first!

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I might cut the floor out behind the driver seat and build a box so teh battery is flush like an old Mini.

Got a few ideas for the future' date=' one will involve a project not too dissimilar to what you're currently doing.......

Been bitten by the boost bug, with influence from IbiVR and co, and just had a drive in a mate's 340bhp Saphirre Cosworth. Wooooo!!

[/quote']

i miss my 3 door!! :( boo hoo...

1159736533_4272_FT138470_dsc00053_.jpg

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Kev' date='remember It's in my mk2 so it'll only weigh 1100kg max with the VR in anyway...

[/quote']

Aye, but it's concentration of weight. Removing a 20kg battery from ahead of the axle and putting it in the boot creates a moment of inertia better for cornering. Done all this in my Corrado and it makes a big difference to turn-in and grip. Just need to lose that stupidly heavy bonnet and replace it with a carbon one for even better results.

Obviously you do need a little weight over the driven wheels for grip though, and I think the VR less all the other accessories is about right personally.

Want to move the battery from my mk3 engine bay for when i charge it!

So am i better off behind the seat or in the boot kev?

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[Want to move the battery from my mk3 engine bay for when i charge it!

So am i better off behind the seat or in the boot kev?

Another way is this mate: - Braille.jpg

The yellow top optima in front is your regular size, 20Kg battery. The little fella behind it weighs 6.8Kg and has more cranking power!! And it only costs about $70.

It would be easier to replace your big battery with a little fella, but if you have amps and things in the boot like I do, it makes wiring them up nice and easy and also the short power runs gives great bass.

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Sump is standard for now' date=' need to get a baffled one sorted.

What suspension set up do you have on yours?

[/quote']

weitech coilovers, vr6 front anti roll bar

its a good setup, but i jus now need to concentrate on shifting sum weight to the back. my battery is quite big so thats first!

You need a 28mm rear ARB mate, brilliant mod for a mk2.

I've got H&R 25mm front and 28mm rear on mine, rear bar is 3-way adjustable too.

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Pete, you can get those batteries from Schimmel or look for the brand 'Deka', which is the same thing but cheaper.

Gary, 28mm rear ARB! You must like Oversteer! I do. Which is why I run the standard front ARB and 25mm rear eibach. Front arbs cause understeer I find....well...more u/s than I'm happy with on the limit. Turn-in with just a rear arb is fantastic.

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