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hello there any one. Many months ago i reported that my car had a serious lack of power but some times went like hell. Eventually i disconected the air flow meter and apart from stalling a few times at junctions it went a hell of a lot better but it still always had this problem that if you flawed the accelerater the car sort of held back, hesitated, if you lifted your foot the car picked up but in doing this the thing was never accelerating as fast as it could. Thats problem number one. Iv been advised by VW and Autovolks that on this year of car 1993 there is no point in plugging it in to the computer because there just wasnt a very good diagnostic capability in the early years. Second problem we dont think the enging is 1993. We changed the the oil filter a few months ago ( i say we, I help out in my friends local garage ) when the filter came based on the reg. number it was wromg, we found the code of the on on it and it turned out to be a 1997 oil filter. I cant find the engine code. Does any one know where the enging code plate/stamp is located on a VR6 block. Third question where are the crank position sensor, and any other sensors for that matter relating to timing. The only one i can find so far is on the front of the block just down and to the right of the oil cooler. There is a small sensor above this behind the oil cooler. As i have already discoverd i orderd a crank position sensor from vw to discover that it was completly wromg if the one below and the the right of oil cooler is the crank pos sensor. What else could cause the car to loose power and hesitate like this. I know its not recomended but if you boot the car whilst cold in the morning it goes like s%^t off a hot shovel. Sorry for rambling but its starting to drive me nuts. My friend and local mechanic is currently out of ideas. I would be gratfull of any ideas or suggestions. Ben (homer) hobson

ben.hobson1@tesco.net

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Your car needs the MAF plugged in to measure the airflow into the engine correctly. With it unplugged the ECU's only option will be to measure the already combusted air/fuel mixture via the lambda probe.

When your car is cold it will be vastly overfueling anyway as the engine need the extra fuel to burn because of the cold start combustion temperature. As the engine gets hotter the car needs less fuel to burn to make it run correctly. Therefore in the morning when the car is cold your car will run reasonably well due to it overfueling, but when it's warm the car is still overfueling and running like a slag.

Get it looked at by a pro is my advice mate.

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