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DIY turbo guide


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SPA manufacture the best Turbo Kit in Brazil. Specially for VW cars. I knew they export for USA and probably UK too! :)

I dream with this VR6 turbo kit almost every night! :P

Maybe next year i´ll have money for that. Let´s work hard and pray!

If you need anything from then, let me know!

Regards.

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I started my turbo install this week, during the evenings. Turbos are starting to become more popular now, especially as the dollar is so weak at the moment. It would be rude not to capitalise on tha

you should be able to get 4" all the way, thats how its is on mine, but then that how markies done his 4" down to 3" back up

liking the look of this thread. im not realy a mechanic but have a technical background do believe i would be able to carry the fitment of a turbo myself??

You're welcome sir!

Got some updates.....

New standalone installed with a fresh wiring loom, made by yours truly :-) Took ages and my back kills!

It's a DTA S80 and it really is a nice piece of kit. Software and hardware both excellent and it runs like stock, well, better than stock actually. I binned the GM MAP sensor and went for an AEM 3.5 bar pressure transducer and it's super smooth. Just as responsive and smooth as mass air, but without the hassles of air flow limitations :-)

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Got some new rims aswell :-)

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  • 3 months later...

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I normally like the smooth clean engine bays but thats wicked, id have never guessed cable ties where holding your VRT together lol

How hard is it to tune your own car? Put very simply is it just adjusting fuel flow vs throttle position working off the AFR meter in the cab? and then copy a stock ignition map changing it to retard or advance on boost (dunno which)

if your AFR reading is between 12- 14.71 though out the rev range and you haven't got much knock then is that a good tune?

Also could you email one of your current maps to someone who's running a similar spec as yours and it would run and drive well?

sorry for all the questions, just wondering how hard it is

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  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry mate, I didn't notice there was new posts in this thread.

Yeah you tune it with an Air Fuel meter, plus other things such as logging and monitoring the other sensors. To make peak torque, the timing ideally needs to done on a dyno but around 20 deg on boost generally works well on VRTs, depending on boost pressure etc.....so 27 ish BTDC at 8psi, reducing to say, 16 at 25psi etc... depends on each application.

I just tune it to how it feels best, rather than set AFR numbers.

Yep, if a map was emailed over and the recipient's engine spec is close to mine, then it would work. Switch closed loop on and it will work on any engine spec, within range of the lambda authority given.

Mapping is a peice of p1ss mate :-) There's no mystery or black art, or special skill to it at all.

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  • 2 months later...

Few updates.

My second Spa manifold is royally f'cked, so that's going in the bin. Cracked right round.

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huge_crack1.jpg

For those who want to know why the ATP manifold doesn't fit, here's why, the brake pot gets in the way....

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The compressor butts up against the servo hose and loom too, although a smaller turbo won't do that. I'm using a TO4S housing which is pretty big.

clearance.jpg

Not to worry though cos both issues are easy to rectify. Simply take the brake pot off completely and relocate it next to the expansion tank and run hoses over to the master cylinder. Can't see that in this pic, but you can see there's plenty of room once the brake pot's been moved....

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Also fitted a new rad with uprated fans.

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And a MK4 Golf header tank, which is LOADS better than the corrado one!!

mk4_tank.jpg

And I've also rigged up a neat little display to read important engine info. It can display everything the ECU can pump down the serial cable.....manifold pressure, water and air temp, oil pressure and temp, fuel pressure, volts, throttle position, injector duty and pulse width, transient fuelling, cold fuelling percent, air temp compensation percent, you name it, everything!

display.jpg

Over the coming weeks I will be showing you how to make a down pipe for the ATP manifold. There's bags more room for it than the SPA manifold, that's for sure!!

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Did a bit more prep work today.

I P clipped the loom and serrvo hose to the bulkhead....

P_clips.jpg

...which has provided plenty of room for the turbo :-)

turbo_clearance.jpg

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I also deleted the aux water pump. I observed what it actually does when the engine was off by pulling a couple of hoses, and not a lot is the answer. I know of a few other people who've binned it with no adverse effects.

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I've decided to try the standard airbox with this install. Looks a lot better than a generic cone!

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Moving onto Manifold prep work....

I'm using ATP's 38mm to 44mm adapter. The hole in the manifold is pretty small, even for a 38mm, so I gasket matched it.

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That's better!

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I made some lock washers and trial fitted the TIAL 44mm.

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Not much room for a bolt head with that adapter, so you need to shave down some M8 x 25mm bolts.....

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Next I drilled and tapped a thread for a 1/8 NPT EGT probe....

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And the probe slots in (from underneath) like so....

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The probe sits about 2" before the turbo and in the middle where all the exhaust ports converge...

Probe_in_manifold.jpg

That's it for now. I'll start on the exhaust next, but I'm waiting on stock for a few 3" angles etc....

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Still waiting on a couple of 3" stainless angles (seems they're in short supply) so I cracked on with the brake resevoir relocation.

Using some fittings I had laying around, I chopped off the lugs from the stock resevoir and grafted them on for a factory tight seal.

Make sure you use proper hose that's brake fluid resistant. I lagged the hoses in a special abrasion resistant covering in case the turbo contacts them.

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There's about 2 cm clearance around the turbo for the hoses, which if you have uprated mounts should be plenty....

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This was a bit of a ball ache getting the lengths right for clearance and to avoid rubbing related damage. Plus you have to keep the hoses above the Master cylinder level to prevent air locks.....

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As hard as I tried, I couldn't find a 4 outlet resevoir, so I had to T off the 2 outlets into 4....

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And here it is, complete and of course, lagged with heat sleeving for good measure. I'll be using a motorbike resevoir in the wiper area for the clutch....

resevoir_done.jpg

Now that's sorted, time to crack on with the exhaust....when the bits finally arrive!!

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OK, sent the first couple of bits of exhaust off to my mate for tigging up. They are a V band ring with tight 3" 90 for the turbo and a 1.75" flex bellow and fitting for the Tial wastegate....

exhaust_parts.jpg

Whilst waiting on those, I thought I'd bolt the turbo on. I used Stage8 locking bolts which seem very nice, only time will tell if they hold the turbo bolts still!

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I also started making up the oil and water lines.

I couldn't get the hardlines I wanted for the water due to supply issues, plus you need an expensive tool to debur and flare the ends to 37 degrees, so I used PTFE lined braided instead, which can handle 230ish deg C, so should be OK. PLEASE do not use rubber hoses, they just harden, perish and then split very quickly! I speak from experience!

The turbo will have a jacket on it when I'm done for further protection.

I did go hardline on the oil though as it's a critical feed. All the fittings come from speedflow and they flared a metre of -4 hardline for me and fitted the sleeve nuts.... oh and I made a heat shield to protect the brake lines etc.

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The braided fittings are a peice of cake, no special fittings needed. These are -6 size and here's how you assemble the lines...

Unscrew the nut off the end to reveal the sleeve collet thing....

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Slide the black nut over the hose and then pick the braiding with a small screwdriver so that it pulls away from the inner liner and trim off the spikey bits, then slide on the collet....

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Push the other end of the fitting into the collet and then tighten the two halves together with the appropriate size spanners or a vice....

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Top Tip - When cutting the braided hose, wrap it with some masking tape and use a junior hacksaw and the end will be neat and easier to assemble ;-).

And here's how the hardline works.

You slide your sleeve nuts on first, then flare the ends to 37 degrees.

sleeve_nut.jpg

These fittings are expensive and may seem over kill, but trust me, money invested here will save you a lot of grief in the long run :-)

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My mate's tigging is up to his usual high standards, it really pays knowing someone who can weld :-)

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In an attempt to modernise the engine and make it better to drive, I've had my Schimmel intake modified to take a Bosch direct to manifold MAP sensor. It's also an air intake sensor too, so makes things neat and compact.

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I've blocked off the servo outlet on runner 6 as I prefer to take a servo vac feed from the whole plenum. The silver sensor is for my boost gauge...

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Denso 1220 500cc injectors, the best bar none. These instantly transform the VR6's idle. Totally smooth and rock steady :-) They're from the 2009 Mazda RX8, which I've had adapted to fit a VR6.

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And here you can see the injector loom I made for the DTA S80, again sleeved in abrasion resistant sleeving :-) ....

manifold_finished.jpg

Stay tuned, more to follow :-)

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