DIY turbo guide

[Radostormvr6 2]

Looking very good kev, like the idea of the map sensor. Pipe works also looking very neat

[contorted fungus 0]

does the short runner intake need a certain cubic capicity for it to run smoothly or does it not matter much when your using boost

[FishWick 21]

No short answer for that really. Intake design is an area of big debate and is very scientific.

Some people say short runner plenum volume should be 1.6 times the engine's cubic capcity, but it often boils down to what will actually fit on the engine without moving alternators and chopping up slam panels etc.

As far as boost is concerned, some folk say tiny plenums are best for spool up / throttle response, but long runners and larger plenums have been shown to work too.

IMO, the best intake is one that provides the broadest spread of power across the entire rev range and the Schimmel one doesn't dissapoint!

[contorted fungus 0]

you getting the imo in there before you start world war 3 again. lol

thinking about designing my own inlet plenum so thats why i was enquiring

[FishWick 21]

If I said that on the VW Vortex then WW3 definitely would have started :-) You're not allowed an opinion on that forum, unless it's the right one of course ;-)

Go for it mate. There's probably some good books out there to point you in the right direction.

[sharky_70 0]

what you got planned for the old Delphi 440's?

[FishWick 21]

Made a bit more progress....

Downpipe's coming together. This is the shape you're aiming for with the ATP. From the top, I used a tight 90, 30 degree section, then a 90 degree and finally a 3" Ilok flex. All from Jetex.

Since it's impossible to fit the flex on the vertical (wastegate gets in the way), next best thing is mounting it at 45 degrees above the front ARB.

The pipe to bulkhead gap is bigger than it looks, there's about an inch, which is plenty with uprated engine mounts...

Hi temp oil drain hose from ATP. I'm draining back to the block for easier driveshaft clearance.

Here's a tip for fitting JIC push hose fittings. I'd get some plastic vice jaws from Speedflow. They hold the fitting tight and protect the delicate anodised finish. Warm the hose in boiling water for a minute and put some fairy liquid on the barbs. The hose will then slide on easily and save you a lot cursing!!

Factory air box is a goer. I'm happy with the way the fuel reg and fuel hose fit around it. Just need to find a rubber bellow to fit between the airbox and intake pipe and the job's a good un :-)

Even with the big SX regulator, you can still get the airbox lid off for filter changes as if it were a standard engine :-)

I kinked the hose 90 degrees under the intake pipe to give a bit of flex when the engine moves back and forth, again, just like the stock hoses ;-) I used stainless hose around there because it's quite close to the manifold. I don't trust rubber and heat when dealing with 5+ bar fuel pressure!.

Getting there, slowly, but surely!

[Phat VR6 3]

looking good kev

Right stupid question time.. is he oil feed and return to the turbo just strate bits of pipe or is there regulator on the feed in to control the flow or the oil?

will the standard airbox flow enough?

and is there any reason why you can't or people don't make SRIs out of mild steel?

and i wan't your garage lol

keep up the good work...

[craggsy 91]

Sorry but i've just messed my keyboard after seeing this picture.............fantastic work Kev. And the garage looks great

[FishWick 21]

Cheers Bodge mate!

There's an oil restrictor on the turbo itself, which GTxxxR turbos need, but other than that, just straight bits of pipe / hose.

The only potentially restrictive thing about the standard airbox is the inlet throat behind the headlight, but that unclips and opens up a much bigger hole if needed. I'll try it as it is first and go from there. I suspect any restriction will only be noticable at high rpm and / or high boost (15+ psi).

Good question on the SRI and the answer is I don't know, LOL! No reason why you can't but I suspect alloy dissipates heat more better than steel, so a better material for intakes?

You can have the garage......if you buy the rest of the house to go with it ;-)

Craggsy, LOL, better wipe up before the missus gets the wrong idea :-) And cheers!

[jims13 6]

looking good kev. im after a 3 " exhaust at the mo, i think im gonna place a call to jetex, and order some bits up

[H13VYY 0]

top work. standard airbox looks alot more neater than the cone filter. loving the engine bay! ATP manifold all good so far?

[Ben Seabrook 4]

that looks amazing Kev

[FishWick 21]

Cheers guys!

H13VYY, yeah the ATP seems OK so far. I just hope it doesn't crack, or I'll give up and buy a Smart Car or something!

[kie_dub 0]

Looking very tidy and oem+ in that bay kev. excellent work and you can tell its been done proper! I WANT IT!! fancy a swap lol

[Radostormvr6 2]

Down pipe looks spot on mate, nice work what about the W/G pipe?

Luv the idea of the OEM airbox, mite go down this route myself.

[sharky_70 0]

again just fantastic work

only seen the stock air box used on one other VRT and that was in the states, does look so much more trick and OE

[contorted fungus 0]

mild steel tends to hold heat alot more than alloy the best for dissipating heat is silver but the cost of a short runner intake would be immense. copper is also a good conductor of heat and cools down quickly.

[contorted fungus 0]

the cost of alloy though is much cheaper than these other materials and easier to mass produce the other option is to manufacture one from carbon weave and resin as this also dissipates heat quickly but also doesn't absorb heat as fast as metal. so if you are planning on making your own these factors are all things you need to take into consideration. will let you all know how my homebrew inlet turns out

[Radostormvr6 2]

must be updates Kev

[FishWick 21]

Downpipe is back with the welder getting the wastegate dump pipe welded on. Got a few more pics to get off the camera and upload, will try and do that later on!

[sharky_70 0]

Kev ive had a quick scan back though, but where do you plum your turbo oil feed from? the filter housing?

[sharky_70 0]

ah i see! an adapter into the oil temp.

[FishWick 21]

Few minor updates:-

Got the last bit of welding back from my mate last week ago and looking good so far.

The wastegate dump pipe is done and he's got that in for welding too, but these are the construction pics.

I just used a little piece of straight, a 1.75" flex and a 90 degree. If using the Tial 44mm WG, you'll need 1.75" bore pipe and if you're using the 38mm, you need 1.5" pipe.

Once you're happy with your angles and how the dump pipe butts up against the main downpipe, you need to make a hole in the main pipe. I couldn't find a nibbler tool strong enough to cut through stainless for reasonable money, so I had to do it the tedious way.

You don't want to know how many drill bits I got through doing this. Motto - don't buy cheap drill bits!!

Nice welding isn't it? :-)

Then you obviously just file it all out smooth.

I finished the fuel lines. I also pulled out the standard plastic lines and run -6 JIC lines front to back. I also did what VW do and use blue hose for return and black for fuel in, just in case someone else works on this car.

Airbox is finished. The ATP rubber inlet isn't much use, so I had to make something up with bits of silicon I had laying around and I'm happy with how it all sits.

It's too rigid though, so I'll need to find a rubber coupling to ensure the airbox stays still when the engine rocks back. I've looked at an Audi R8's rubber coupling and it might just be do the job, so I'll order one.

Should get the next bit of welding back next week sometime hopefully and the downpipe is practically done, just needs a couple of lambda sockets etc.

[Phat VR6 3]

Your welder is doing a brilliant job. mines going to look like a right mess compared to that

whats the red block by the air box? fuel reg?