DIY turbo guide

[FishWick 21]

Project complete.

The latest updates:-

The exhaust got finished off OK in the end, so that's all lagged and fitted. The turbo nappy is on too and both lambdas in and hooked up.

Here's the view from under the car. It's in sections deliberately to allow the addition of a 3" cat a later date, which is the V banded one. The other one is the 3" - 2.5" - 2.25" reducer to mate up to the SuperSprint. That will all be replaced with 2.5" soon.

I also got round to running the waterlines from the front rad to the boot. These next shots are only really applicable if you're planning on the Schimmel (or similar) air-water intercooler....

First I got some hole cutters and worked out the best place to avoid the exhaust and axle. Under the passenger rear seat seemed perfect.

Far enough away from the exhaust....

....and brings the lines down perfectly to tie to the brake lines.

I rigged up a temporary false floor for testing purposes. The little braille battery is laid flat underneath and accessible for jump starting etc. It will all be replaced eventually with more permanent fixtures and fittings. Screen wash relocated to boot aswell and works just fine :-)

So my little project is complete and currently running 8 psi for testing. It's superb, pulls as smooth as you like all the way round and the boost is instaneous and completely addictive. Even with 8psi it would destroy my old Supercharger, such is the immediate and chunky torque......god only knows what it's going to be like 3.0 running 15-20psi, sweet jesus! :-)

The reason it's so lag free is partly due to the Schimmel intercooler, it only drops 0.25psi, and the Schimmel short intake. I've not experienced throttle response like it! The boost just whips round from seeminlgy no revs to 8psi instantly, then the WG opens and poops the party. The intercooler is madness, after 30 mins blasting, there was condensation on the casing and it was stone cold to touch, as was the intake, thanks to the oversized rad and mahooosive pump from a US V8.

So here it is, a bit starship enterprise under there, but it paid off because underbonnet temps are negligable, thanks also to the nappy which is very effective.

Next - This 3 litre baby and more boost :-)

[cadguy77 0]

your a mad man Kev, hat off to ya

[IbiVR 0]

Glad its up and running kev and your happy with the smoothness etc - not a bad choice of turbo then...

Interesting to hear the comparison to the SC.

Happy you made the decision to go turbo then?

What sort of AFR's are you seeing at part throttle/boost?

Anyway glad you happy!

Tom.

[LadVR 0]

Awesome thread mate, glad its all worked out good for you. I've been following this closely as i'm about to go down the same route with mine. i can't wait to get the spanners out!

[FishWick 21]

Cheers guys!

At first I thought the GT3071 turbo was going to be a bit small, but in practice it feels just right. It feels like a 1.8T on a much bigger scale :-)

It 'feels' quicker than my 8psi Supercharger setup because of the torque - it kicks in a lot sooner and there's more of it, but I suspect head to head, there wouldn't be a massive difference overall.

Yep, very happy I went turbo and I'd definitely recommend it to anyone!

AFRs - At WOT I've seen as rich as 8 but on part throttle boost it hovers around 11, which seems about right. I don't mind the extra fuel blasting in as it keeps the exhaust valves cool ;-) We can fine tune it when it's mapped.

Otherwise it's hovering around 14 to 18 on closed loop. There's no unusual vibrations or pinking, or any other noises, so all is well to drive it up to Stealth for the 3.0

[jcorallo 0]

Kev,

Good work - we are all looking forward to seeing this in the flesh!

1) Do you have any close up pics of the oil feed adaptor on the filter housing and also going into the turbo? Where abouts did you place the oil pressure restrictor in the feed line?

2) ..and also the oil drain set up to the sump? Interested to know how this was done and how close the shafts run to your drain tube. Did you use a clear drain tube or a braided one?

3) How have you plumbed the water feeds to the turbo - did you just use the old throttle body feed?

4) Can you explain how you've managed the fueling as it is now? I dont see you mentioned any eproms/chips at all - is it just bigger injectors, MAF housing and a RR-FPR and thats it??

I suppose you'll need to put antifreeze in your charge cooler!??

Cheers,

Jules

[IbiVR 0]

Excellent. Those afr's are nice and safe. I wouldnt go over 12 at WOT, part throttle 12-13, and a nice idle at 14.

Same as you - fuel is cheap, valves/pistons are not!

Tom.

[FishWick 21]

1) Do you have any close up pics of the oil feed adaptor on the filter housing and also going into the turbo? Where abouts did you place the oil pressure restrictor in the feed line?

Not real close ups I'm afraid. I'm going to move the oil feed tonight I think - so that it comes over the cold side instead of hot. I'll take some pics then. The oil pressure restrictor goes on the turbo otherwise I doubt the reduced pressure would make it up that far if you put it at the filter end?

2) ..and also the oil drain set up to the sump? Interested to know how this was done and how close the shafts run to your drain tube. Did you use a clear drain tube or a braided one?

Currently it drains low down in the sump' date=' about 2" above the drain plug. This is - as you say - to allow adequate driveshaft clearance. It's not ideal tbh, but no other way at this stage, but the 3.0 is draining back into the block above shaft level for a much less restrictive return path, which will extend the life of the seals. I have some pics of where at home somewhere.

3) How have you plumbed the water feeds to the turbo - did you just use the old throttle body feed?

Yep ;-) Almost like VW knew in advance!

4) is it just bigger injectors' date=' MAF housing and a RR-FPR and thats it?? [/quote']

Standard injectors, standard MAF and RR-FPR - yep. It only needs to be 'drivable' to get it to stealth but I have to say, it's more than just drivable, it's superb! Often frowned upon, boost dependant FPRs do a good enough job tbh. It's specially designed for the job of adding a turbo to a normally n/a engine and you can tell as it works damn well. The 3.0 will be mapped using the 440s and 4" MAF though.

I suppose you'll need to put antifreeze in your charge cooler!??

Indeed. It's got 25% G12+ in it ;-)

[jcorallo 0]

Hi kev,

Thanks for the replies.

Is that a Cartech FMU?

Cheers,

Jules

[FishWick 21]

It's a BEGI 2025 FMU mate - http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages/products_FPR_Instruction.html

[rodney 17]

Well done and I think I speak for all saying very Impressive and the thread will help everyone who is thinking of this!

Also thinking for all those who will follow your lead could you stick a simple shopping list up for the bits you used just to help the inexperienced like me. As there are a lot of pieces that sort of crop up along the way once you've bought a basic kit.

Once you have been and had the final bits put in. Wots the chance of a little film clip-ette just so we can see and hear your new baby in action :-p

Again I must say an Inspiring effort well done and I to can not wait to see it in the flesh!

[FishWick 21]

Cheers for the kind words :-)

I hope people do find it useful. There's nothing to be scared of (apart from a rapidly depleting bank account!), it's all pretty straight forward to be honest.

A shopping list is a good idea, but it can vary depending on your goals and budgets. Some people might go standalone and therefore won't need a 4" MAF, RR FPR or various sections of pipe etc and some folk definitely won't go down the Shcimmel intercooler path as it's expensive, and others might want a bigger (or smaller) turbo so it's pretty tricky producing a definitive list I'm afraid.

IBIVR is a fountain of knowledge with this stuff and can also supply the manifold and spacer etc, plus myself and a few others will be around to answer any questions!

[FishWick 21]

DTA kit....

MUCH cheaper from the US.

[rodney 17]

Oooooooooooo Nice box and wires....

Whats that do then???

[FishWick 21]

It takes over the fuelling and ignition from the Stock ECU ;-)

It's purpose made for the tuner wanting peak performance and has other features, including Traction control which uses the existing ABS. It references the rear wheels and if the fronts spin faster than the rears, it kicks in appropriate ABS pump outlet to stop spin. I think it also alters the map to cut boost and igntion too. OE traction control doesn't work very well with Quaife diffs though, so it will be interesting to see if the DTA is any better in that respect.

There's also launch control, what ever that is, and various outputs for other stuff.

The biggest selling point for me is being able to dump the mass air sensor as the DTA uses manifold pressure to measure engine load instead. Unlike stock ECUs, standalones have adjustale damping factor to prevent the manifold pressure loading the fuel sites too quickly, which floods the engine. MAP is much faster to respond than mass air and is more accurate too, but it's not the easiest of systems to tune and neither is cold running and idling, which are often headaches with standalones...but I'll enjoy the challenge :-)

Unfortunately I've had to lose the OBD2 throttle because it's 5V at rest and 0V at max opening, which is the opposite to OBD1 and guess what? DTA needs 0-5V, so I've had to get an OBD1 Golf throttle instead....but that's no major loss as it's bigger, so lets more air in.

[jon@vagworx 0]

Looks like its all going well mate, really nice setup.

Little confused that you may have sold short by going for the DTA????

Would have thought you would have gone better. Will you still be using the stock coil pack/wastespark setup????

[jon@vagworx 0]

Ahh, just dawned on me......i guess that Vince maps DTA, sorry, makes sence.

[vr6turbo 27]

you may also need to brace the turbo core to the engine as there is alot of movement which may cause leaks etc,

[FishWick 21]

That's what I quizzed Tom about initially and he said not to worry about it.

Millsy, no worries chap. I'd have preferred to have stuck with OBD2 as it's nice and smooth, but ultimately, the DTA can manage boost better.

[vr6turbo 27]

projects looking great

excellent post

looking forward to hearing about the rest of the project

[FishWick 21]

Thanks matey. 3.0 forged motor going in on the 8th Jan + DTA management, so should be quite interesting :-)

[gav_113 0]

mint thread!! loving it! well done......

[VRTime 0]

woooooooo......... it moves.... Awesome

I didnt realise you was going down the DTA route, when you spoke about Stealth I presumed you were getting your Bosch ECU chipped & mapped (which Vince can do).

How are you getting on with that BEGI in the meantime? What base fuel pressure did you end up starting at?

G

[The Transplanter 0]

Nice project, my hats off to you sir 8-|

Make sure you get some vids of the dyno pull so we can all druel over them 8-)

[FishWick 21]

Been fiddling around with the DTA and starting to get some figures. Unfortunately Stealth's rollers max'd out (279.4 whp) so all we could get were 327hp and 312lb/ft with 11psi...but the graphs were still climbing. Using some maths Vince worked it out to be around 350 crank hp, so I need to find a better rolling road to do the final setup on.

What makes this engine is the torque. By 2000rpm it's making more than a stock 2.9 VR6 and at 3000rpm we have 312lb/ft and peaks at 4100rpm with god knows what, which holds to the red line.

What this means on the open road is pulling a 5 car length lead out of an Impreza STI from 75mph in 5th very quickly whilst he tries to figure out where his boost is :-) This is why I stuck with the 3.68 final drive as I prefer midrange punch to top end.

So far so good. Just need to bed in the engine properly now! We mapped it with only 20 miles to it's name, but we bedded it in fairly brutally on the road prior. After 600 or so miles the JE pistons should be loosened up and she'll start making a bit more power.

A warning about the manifolds IBIVR sells. Make sure the flanges are machined flat where you bolt it down to the head. Mine wasn't and it ended up ripping the studs out of the head, so had to be helicoiled back in again and we extensively reworked the manifold to sit on the head better.

I hope mine was a one-off on this respect, but just a warning in case not.