When Is Aquimst required etc...

[rodney 17]

Ladies and Gents,

I am getting VF-Stage 2 S/c and have been reading up on the benefits of the Aquamist system and wanted some feedback and comments from you guys.

So when do I need to fit such a kit and will it help the reliability and operation of the car with the new s/c fitted?

Also as I am going to get it fitted by probably the Phirm do you think I should just get the thing fitted and remap etc at the same time ??

Look forwards to your comments

Thanks

[mk3anni 0]

It will help lower your intake temps and as it makes the air denser it will give you a little more pressure on boost.

It depends how you use it. If you use it purely as a safe guard then you wont benefit much. If you have the engine mapped to always run with it the timing can be pulled back and power can be gained.

If its a new kit then you need to run the charger in before mapping.

[FishWick 21]

Is your VR OBD2? If it is, monitor the knock tables on the rolling road and you should see the effects of the water. Without water and running 8psi, you usually get up to 14 units of knock at the top end. Anything over 6 is bad.

With water, you see no more than 6, but ideally 0.

Use the 0.6mm jet with a mix of 70% battery water (or the jet will scale up), 20% methanol and 10% Holts screen wash.

The latter is the only wash that is still methanol based and will still be good for your windscreen. Won't harm the pump.

Pump must be mounted below washer tank so that it's gravity fed.

Set MPS to come on at 4psi.

I would also recommend the DDS3 display as it not only tells you the pump is working, it also shows you flow rate and also comes with a float sender for the washer tank, which automatically disables the pump if you run out of water.

I wouldn't advance the timing for the water personally, just use it as safeguard against det in the summer.

[rodney 17]

1997 P so OBD2

I do see other people appear to be running without and am keen to ensure I do it right. However, as with all these things there is a budget in place!

I am looking at it, as a safegaurd rather than a power gain device - Stage 2 is enough imo. As the car will be with me a while, reliability and all that is important! I also like simple (less to go wrong) so if I don't need it; that must make the install simpler and more reliable - No?

Why the mix in the water other than to clean the screen and keep jets clear?

I must admit I don't know about the DDS3 do you have a link or any additional informatioin you could let me have or point me in the direction of ???

I understand that the S/c needs to be run in! However, why not get the map done at the same time as I am at the place where the remap will be done whilst it is being fitted? Is it the damage to the S/c? In which case I leave the original injectors in and drive to brighton and back all day and leave it at the Phirm for the following day for the map!

Keep 'em coming!

Thanks again Folks !

[FishWick 21]

You need the water 'mix' for 2 reasons :-

1) Water is not flammable, but is the most efficient, natural coolant there is, other than CO2 and NOS. It literally steam cleans your piston crowns and valves, aswell as absorbing excess cylinder heat. The downside is atomised water interferes with the atomised fuel a little too much, so you need something combustable to replace it with, hence the methanol (which is also a good coolant aswell), but too much methanol is not good and it won't burn and drop your power. Nitromethane is also a good additive and that will boost your power something chronic!

2) Hard water will scale up the jet in no time, so you must use softened water, or battery top up / boiled / softened / deionised water....just NOT tap water. The screen wash lubricates the pump and clears the screen as normal, doesn't affect the in-cylinder burn.

They reckon the S/C needs 'running in' for 500 miles but come on, we're not in the 50s any more! I ran mine flat out from day one and it was fine. It's just a couple of gears and a belt, absolutely nothing to go wrong. It's just a physcological thing, like "100,000 miles". I don't run new engines in either, there's just no need these days. Babying an engine gets you nowhere in the long run.

Get down and be brutal with these machines ;-)

[rodney 17]

Cool Thanks!

So now just down to do I need one?

Is it an easy retro fit and will i have to remap again once fitted?

Or bite the bullet and fit it at the same time as fitting the S/charger?

Cheers

[swfblade 0]

I got a dual stage injection kit from a group buy on the corrado forum last year, originally for my G60 Corrado. Never got to fit it as unfortunatly she was written off, but this has worked out ok, as I will fit it to my VR when I fit my charger. I may need to get bigger injectors tho, as I think the current ones are 1 and 2 lb's respectively.

[rodney 17]

Found the DDS3 Looks cool! £180 mind!

Which of the Aquamist systems should I be looking at???

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/cp.html

Cheers

[FishWick 21]

System 1s with the DDS3 makes a nice system.

As for do you actually need water injection? Not really. It's the same with intercooling, it's not essential for up to 8psi but an intercooled engine will be more consistent than one that isn't.

[rodney 17]

one ;last question. how many miles do you get outta a tank of water assuming you dont clean your windows??? 10's or 1000s of miles????

[Eat this 2]

wtb nitromethane

[rodney 17]

Ok so I dont want to hijack the other thread so I'll ask on this one.

Sparks, Whats the coolmist then. I havent come across any one chatting about that????