xyber 1 Posted November 29, 2007 Report Share Posted November 29, 2007 cheers ill have a gander Link to post Share on other sites
rodney 17 Posted January 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2008 Does anyone have the dimension of the pullies for the various stages???? Link to post Share on other sites
rodney 17 Posted January 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2008 anyone managed to put a tape over their pully for me????? Link to post Share on other sites
rodney 17 Posted January 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2008 Come on please out there. I have a tape and nothing to measure it against.... Link to post Share on other sites
rodney 17 Posted January 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2008 Ok I managed to find it. Just Fyi all the last digits on the pulley are diameter in inches and VF tell me they are:MK3 Stage 1 & 2. The stage 1 pulley is a 3.25" and the stage 2 is 2.87" so for example my PN is 2A037-287 (Easy when you know how eh!!! )So as I know there have been a couple of guys with the wrong pullies in the past this is how to check....I hope it helps poeple out thereCheers Link to post Share on other sites
rodney 17 Posted March 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2008 I have also managed to steal this off someone else on here who has managed to find information.http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?222242found it!And for reference:3.25" PulleyBoost up to 6-7 psi3.12" Pulley Boost up to 8-9 psi 2.87" Pulley Boost up to 10-11 psi 2.75" Pulley Boost up to 12 psi 2.62" Pulley Boost up to 13 psi 2.5" Pulley Boost up to 15 psi Link to post Share on other sites
kcw 1 Posted April 17, 2008 Report Share Posted April 17, 2008 I didnt know there was a 2.5" 15psi pulley, I thought the max was 12psi? would the smaller puller generate more belt slip than the other?Also, why do no charged VRs running toothed belts like you see on G60s and G40s? Link to post Share on other sites
binliner 0 Posted April 17, 2008 Report Share Posted April 17, 2008 ZR2 chargers use toothed belts Link to post Share on other sites
kcw 1 Posted April 17, 2008 Report Share Posted April 17, 2008 Are ZR2s not a fair bit older design than the VF Engineering ones? Link to post Share on other sites
ardandy 0 Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 Why don't people use intercoolers on VR6 S/c's?Surely they'd bring the temp down a bit? Link to post Share on other sites
ingham 5 Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 Why don't people use intercoolers on VR6 S/c's?Surely they'd bring the temp down a bit?they also drop boost pressure Link to post Share on other sites
rodney 17 Posted August 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 the temperatures arent that bad. only when you go stage 3 do you look at it. Link to post Share on other sites
ardandy 0 Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 Right I'm on my way to a rebuild now but the only way I'm likely to do it (as saving up everything in one go isn't going to happen!) is for me to buy the parts needed myself bit by bit and when complete get someone to do it all.I'm unsure on everything I need though, as well as what else is worth doing whilst its been rebuilt.Aim is for a rebuilt engine to take a stage 2 s/c reliably.Parts I'm aware of that need replacing/worth repacing whilst the works done.Pistons - My block will be re-used and rebored to a 'true' (is it???) 2.9, not sure on size I'd need but thinking about JE Pistons?ARP Rod & Head Bolts - Where can you get these from? Valves & 268 Cams - Want the head rebuilding too.------ Still stuck on what I need for a rebuild. Help! ------Clutch & Flywheel - Probably worth doing at the time, been told a Standard VR6 clutch can take a Stage 2 easily.Radiator - Mines fine but a fair few years old so think i'll swap this tooHoses - Already got a Samco Hose set waiting! Chains/Tensioners/Water Pump - Again, prob worth doing at the timeExhaust - Already got a Milltek Sports CAT waiting, just need the cat back system now.General Service Items - Obviously!Ok, what else? Link to post Share on other sites
xyber 1 Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 have a wander around this site mate http://www.spturboparts.com/aftermarket/index.aspx Link to post Share on other sites
Lizard Racing 0 Posted August 22, 2008 Report Share Posted August 22, 2008 Right I'm on my way to a rebuild now but the only way I'm likely to do it (as saving up everything in one go isn't going to happen!) is for me to buy the parts needed myself bit by bit and when complete get someone to do it all.I'm unsure on everything I need though' date=' as well as what else is worth doing whilst its been rebuilt.Aim is for a rebuilt engine to take a stage 2 s/c reliably.Parts I'm aware of that need replacing/worth repacing whilst the works done.Pistons - My block will be re-used and rebored to a 'true' (is it???) 2.9, not sure on size I'd need but thinking about JE Pistons?ARP Rod & Head Bolts - Where can you get these from? Valves & 268 Cams - Want the head rebuilding too.------ Still stuck on what I need for a rebuild. Help! ------Clutch & Flywheel - Probably worth doing at the time, been told a Standard VR6 clutch can take a Stage 2 easily.Radiator - Mines fine but a fair few years old so think i'll swap this tooHoses - Already got a Samco Hose set waiting! Chains/Tensioners/Water Pump - Again, prob worth doing at the timeExhaust - Already got a Milltek Sports CAT waiting, just need the cat back system now.General Service Items - Obviously!Ok, what else?[/quote']If I was doing another 12valve I would avoid JE pistons and buy Wossner jobbies, you will need 83mm which will give 2937ish CCs.ARP head studs and rod bolts I got from Summit Racing in the US.I would avoid going 268 cams also, the Schimmel 263s are what you want.You will need fuel injectors, a 4 bar fuel pressure regulator, decent 6 branch as for the clutch I would opt for a helix or similar for the sort of power you want. Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Seabrook 4 Posted August 22, 2008 Report Share Posted August 22, 2008 If I was doing another 12valve I would avoid JE pistons and buy Wossner jobbies' date=' you will need 83mm which will give 2937ish CCs.ARP head studs and rod bolts I got from Summit Racing in the US.I would avoid going 268 cams also, the Schimmel 263s are what you want.You will need fuel injectors, a 4 bar fuel pressure regulator, decent 6 branch as for the clutch I would opt for a helix or similar for the sort of power you want.[/quote']Alex mate would you say all these things are necessery for a stage 2 or would they be a good idea only if you are going for a total rebuild ?? Just a bit unsure about what else I should be doing at the same time ? Link to post Share on other sites
Lizard Racing 0 Posted August 22, 2008 Report Share Posted August 22, 2008 Lets be honest about supercharging, the Rotrex chargers are the only chargers that will give you real power. They are a little more to buy but you will have far more scope to tune for more power when you want it. I ran 27psi at one point which is unheard of with a Vortech. There is a few guys on here that have seen the light or gone down the turbo route. These sites have all you need to know: http://www.rotrex.com/ http://www.stormdevelopments.co.uk/powered-by-rotrex.html Link to post Share on other sites
Lizard Racing 0 Posted August 22, 2008 Report Share Posted August 22, 2008 If I was doing another 12valve I would avoid JE pistons and buy Wossner jobbies' date=' you will need 83mm which will give 2937ish CCs.ARP head studs and rod bolts I got from Summit Racing in the US.I would avoid going 268 cams also, the Schimmel 263s are what you want.You will need fuel injectors, a 4 bar fuel pressure regulator, decent 6 branch as for the clutch I would opt for a helix or similar for the sort of power you want.[/quote']Alex mate would you say all these things are necessery for a stage 2 or would they be a good idea only if you are going for a total rebuild ?? Just a bit unsure about what else I should be doing at the same time ?If you want the best results both on the road and on the rollers then the answer is yes Ben. There is much more stuff I could add and if Im honest an oil cooler isnt one of them! Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Seabrook 4 Posted August 22, 2008 Report Share Posted August 22, 2008 If you want the best results both on the road and on the rollers then the answer is yes Ben. There is much more stuff I could add and if Im honest an oil cooler isnt one of them!Yeah would rather do it right and not have any probs and get it runny sweet. Looks like I had better do some more research and get the credit card out again !! Link to post Share on other sites
Lizard Racing 0 Posted August 22, 2008 Report Share Posted August 22, 2008 Tell me what youve got already and I will tell you what you need and where to buy it! I mean every little part no matter how small! You going Vortech? Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Seabrook 4 Posted August 23, 2008 Report Share Posted August 23, 2008 Tell me what youve got already and I will tell you what you need and where to buy it! I mean every little part no matter how small! You going Vortech?Cheers mate - no have bought a stage 2 z-engineering kit from a mate on e38 - which he says comes with rising rate fuel pressure reg, and fresh belts, oil catch tank, piping and hosing. Everyuthing you need to get it running in your car.....its all plug and play. Also comes with a boost guage thats been integrated into the vent. So really just wondering what else I should do at the same time to make sure my engine can cope ? The engine is only on 90,000 miles I have have the head gasket and chains done about 9000 miles ago and the engine runs sweet at the mo. Link to post Share on other sites
Lizard Racing 0 Posted August 23, 2008 Report Share Posted August 23, 2008 What about injectors, BOV and clutch? Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Seabrook 4 Posted August 23, 2008 Report Share Posted August 23, 2008 nope none of them- this is why I need help am totally clueless !!! was going to use the standard clutch - not good ? Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted August 23, 2008 Report Share Posted August 23, 2008 standerd clutch has been fine on mine and im running 275 lb ft and its had a fair few 1/4 mile launches too Link to post Share on other sites
Phat VR6 3 Posted August 23, 2008 Report Share Posted August 23, 2008 As long as your engine is healthy you should just be able to bolt that kit on and just chill out, No need to rebuild your engine or anything like that, I think lizard racing is more on about really big power builds, I think eat this and xyber are both running stage 2 and above on standard engines??? Link to post Share on other sites
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