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Engine out of car - what's sensible to replace?


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I'm half way through an engine conversion. Well I say half way, probably more like 5% done. The engine and transmission (and a host of other parts) are now removed from the donor car, which was a Cat C write off, 1998 Golf VR6, 109,000 miles and no service history.

I am planning to split the engine and transmission and look at the clutch, I'm happy enough to be able to look at that and determine if its been replaced recently, or has plenty of life left in it. But what other parts should I be looking at? Are there any known weaknesses, for example oil cooler, electric water pump?

Obviously there's the cam chains too. Is it possible to remove the cover and visually inspect it to see if its within a certain tolerance, or tell if its been replaced (recently)? I'm guessing, if its never had a chain change then 109,000 miles is a sensible time to get one done!

I just don't want to needlessly spend money on parts, since I've priced up some of the replacement parts and they tend to be costly. I'm happy enough to address issues involving another engine removal in 2-3 years time.

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PS I drove the car only for a couple of minutes - the nature of the crash meant the radiator was trashed, so there was no coolant in the car. In those couple of minutes, it didn't grumble or make any unusual noises (to my inexperienced in VR6 ears).

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No time pressure, so I can order the seals I break, on Monday. Just realised the flywheel has to come off, to get to all the cover bolts, and I didn't have the relevant tool to undo the bolts. So it looks like this is "to be continued" tomorrow.

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Now taken the cover off, need to check if the chain and guides need replacing or if there's plenty of life left in them.

[img width=640]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/VR6/Dsc03772reduced.jpg

Area B has a little wear, tapering from nothing to maybe 0.3mm next to zone A. Most of the wear is in area A, which is nearest the crank. It tapers from area B to near the end, from around 0.3mm to 0.8mm. Any ideas guys?

[img width=640]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/VR6/Dsc03773croppedwithlabels.jpg

Also, do you need to remove the (top) cam cover, to reach a couple of bolts to undo, to remove the top cover? Cheers

Moderator edit by: craggsy

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Did a bit more background reading and found a comprehensive guide on how-to change the chains and tensioners. The author had a damaged upper tensioner but the lower one was fine. So, I took off the inlet manifold and cam cover, lucky I did because I found the upper guide rail damaged. Is it reasonable to change the guides, but leave the original chains if they're okay?

Dsc03790cropped.jpg

The damage

[img width=640]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/VR6/Dsc03791reducedandcropped.jpg

Worn but not too bad - maybe 0.4mm most of the way along its length it rubs. You can also see the damage to the guide rail a little better.

[img width=640]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/VR6/Dsc03795reduced.jpg

Another area of concern. The pink stuff is obviously coolant, initially I was worried the head gasket's gone. But on further inspection, you can see the gasket for the thermostat housing wasn't fitted properly, its obviously leaked under pressure and the coolant has dribbled down the engine

[img width=640]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/VR6/Dsc03789reduced.jpg

Hmmmm, those cams look way too pointy...... (6)

Moderator edit by: craggsy

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