dwa1974 0 Posted October 11, 2007 Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 Funny one this, I'll try and be as brief as i can! From the beginning....About a week ago being a medling git I disconnected my battery and removed my TB to clean it. did the job, put it back on reconnected the battery and bingo, off we go again. I then realised that my TB needed to reset itself as it was tickiing over a bit high (about 1200rpm). I ordered a VAGCOM lead from egay and waited.obviously i had to use the car whilst i was waiting for royal mail to deliver my goods and it has been driving fine until yesterday when my car cut out twice whilst in motion and then carried on as if nothing had happened.My VAGCOM lead came today and i borrowed a laptop to do the dead with but couldn't get VAGCOM to use the serial port on the laptop it kept saying it was busy so when the laptop battery died I drove it back to it's owner to charge it, whilst I was there I left the car running and it cut out., That was at 3pm today - it's still there! It cranks fine but doesn't fire, I also noticed a clicking sound coming from where the fuses and relays are under the dash whilst I was cranking the engine.Phew! Well thats it! The whole tale so far. My VR hasn't missed a beat since I got it March and although I will get it plugged into VAGCOM I just wondered if anyone had any ideas!Thanks in advanceDamian Link to post Share on other sites
dwa1974 0 Posted October 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 and then it started four hours later as if nothing had happened! dammit Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Rob 0 Posted October 11, 2007 Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 could be fuel pump relay, ecu relay or ignition switch Link to post Share on other sites
dwa1974 0 Posted October 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 yeah, cheers. Ineed to plug it in i reckon but i'd agree at one of those! Link to post Share on other sites
dwa1974 0 Posted October 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2007 starts fine when it's cold but cuts out when it's warm. Plugging in tomorrow. Let you know if anyones interested Link to post Share on other sites
jims13 6 Posted October 13, 2007 Report Share Posted October 13, 2007 ecu relay, i had the same problem with a93 golf gticommon as muck Link to post Share on other sites
dwa1974 0 Posted October 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2007 cheers jim! Are they dear? Link to post Share on other sites
jims13 6 Posted October 14, 2007 Report Share Posted October 14, 2007 no, scrap yards are always free Link to post Share on other sites
jims13 6 Posted October 14, 2007 Report Share Posted October 14, 2007 im sure when i looked at mine it was noticably burned on the bottom of the relay were the pins are, from all the arcing.i think from memory its the one to the left top of the fuse box, quite fiddly to get to.. but i may be wrong Link to post Share on other sites
jims13 6 Posted October 14, 2007 Report Share Posted October 14, 2007 forgot to add, if you cant hear the pump priming when it dont start then its probaly the fuel pump relay, as these are also common. problem with intermtant faults , is that they are just that intermitant, they are a engineers knightmare Link to post Share on other sites
dwa1974 0 Posted October 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2007 is that the funny buzzing sound you get when you turn the acc on? Link to post Share on other sites
dwa1974 0 Posted October 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2007 both the fuel pump relay and the ecu relay click when the power is turned on, could they still be faulty. I suppose I should just change em both and have done wi it! Link to post Share on other sites
kalv 0 Posted October 15, 2007 Report Share Posted October 15, 2007 Hi mate.. i got the same problem as u... (have another thread posted).. I have changed the Fuel pump relay on mine and replaced my camshaft sensor. I don't have VAG.COM but just a little fault code reader so left the car in ignition for 15min to reset throttle body.Car still dies when gets warm.. and like you, starts everytime when cold.Think I may need a garage to properly 'reset' it. Link to post Share on other sites
dwa1974 0 Posted October 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 mine wont start at all now. I replaced the fuel pump relay but no joy. Car got towed this morning, hopefully gonna find out what the problem is tonight Link to post Share on other sites
dwa1974 0 Posted October 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 My VR has been in the garage for two days now The mechanic had 'someone' come round and read the faults, he cleared them and started again and now he is saying that the rpm sensor is at fault. There is no spark. Could this be the cam shaft sensor or am i clutching at straws??? Link to post Share on other sites
kalv 0 Posted October 18, 2007 Report Share Posted October 18, 2007 Weird thing is mine is beginning to sound the same as yours..?Not sure if the rpm sensor is the same but I replaced my camshaft sensor and reset the throttle body.. no luck.Mines been at my local garage and he says that there isn't any faults indicating where the problem is. When it gets to temperature it cuts out. They check the sparks and coil-pack and there is no signal/spark coming to it. He says it could be the actual fuse-pack.. when they get old connections go bad and resistance builds up?Garage says it's something he hasn't come across and complimented the car as its smooth and well looked after.Mines going to a specialist to check it more thoroughly but i'm guessing that will be expensive? Link to post Share on other sites
dwa1974 0 Posted October 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2007 Ok. turned out to be the rpm sensor, also known as the crank shaft position sensor, not to be confused witht the cam shaft sensor! This little bugger cuts off supply to the fuel pump, injectors and the coil pack rendering your car useless. But what a difference it has made - not only does my VR start now but it is really keen to accelerate, nice Link to post Share on other sites
kalv 0 Posted October 22, 2007 Report Share Posted October 22, 2007 ahh... I rang my garage .. he reckons it could be that aswell.. but he didn't have the correct equipment to 'scope' it... the specialist is going to check this aswell... fingers crossed!How much was the sensor? Link to post Share on other sites
dwa1974 0 Posted October 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 it was about £25, runs brilliantly now Link to post Share on other sites
kalv 0 Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Specialist is charging me £70 for the sensor... said I get 1 year waranty on it aswell.. then about £30 to fit (labour)... Link to post Share on other sites
Bee 0 Posted November 2, 2007 Report Share Posted November 2, 2007 HiI've had simular fault as you two, cars run ok little bit lumpy at idle but every now and then it won't start for shit ! just turns over as normal but won't start ! weird thing is and i don't know if either of you tried but it will bump start easily, also a couple of times when i've been on my own and i haven't got a nuff speed to start it it will start off the key after my attempted bump start ? also it didn't start this morning and i could hear that click from the fuse box (but it don't usally make that noise).When it first started doing it i brought a vag com and it gave fault codes3 Faults Found:00533 - Idle Speed Regulation 14-10 - Adaptation Limit (Add) Exceeded - Intermittent00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) 03-10 - No Signal - Intermittent01247 - Activated Charcoal Filter (EVAP) System Solenoid Valve 1 (N80) 37-00 - FaultyI thought the engine speed sensor was the fault but i wasn't sure if it was the cam or crank sensor does any know where those sensors are? Link to post Share on other sites
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