sump baffels

[ChrisP 0]

Steel just bends and if it bends far enough (especially around the sump nut area) it can crack or get a hole in it. I had a steel sump go that way. And again' date=' if the car is so low as to whack the sump and cause damage in the first place, no sump will save you.

[/quote']

You've had a steel sump crack or hole through it being hit that hard? And knowing thaat firsthand you would advocate an ally sump? I dont follow that - was this fitted to a VR? and at what ride height and circumstances did this happen?

[FishWick 21]

Still want to use that ally sump?

Yes thanks :-)

We're quibbling for the sake of quibbling. We're better than this ;-)

I do agree that baffling is better for track cars, and also much cheaper than dry sumping.....but I don't and won't track my car, so the stock sumps are fit for purpose for the kind of driving I do. If I were to get involved in track racing, it would not be in a VW, that's for sure ;-)

I don't know what happened to the MK4s you saw, but I've done 16K with an ally sump and not had any fears of whacking it during it's normal day to day use. I'm lowered approx 50mm. If I did find myself in a situation where it might hit, I'd turn round and find an alternative route.

Playing the old "OEs do things for a reason" card, I don't think VW would have bothered with ally if it's THAT fragile.

Regard to my steel sump that had a hole in it, it was one I borrowed from Stealth whilst mine was being modded for an oil return. It 'looked' normal, other than a scrape as you described. But I had a constant leak of oil from that area, which I thought was the sump gasket, but later transpired to be a hole in the sump where it scraped the floor. The engine would have died if I hadn't spotted it, just as easily if it were an ally sump. And that's the thing, I do spot things like that, because like you say, I have spent shed loads of money and I make sure everything is OK very regularly ;-)

Are we done now? :-)

Have you got any links to a good VR6 baffled sump? Steel or otherwise? Cheers....

Just curious ;-)

[ChrisP 0]

ok Kev, this is a discussion from which we have a differing opinion, I'm not quibbling, or argueing with you or anyone else. I'm offering my opinion based on the original question based on my knowledge and experience (as are we all) - the game reference was because a dry sump system really isnt viable for 99.9% of us, no matter it being the pinnacle of solving this problem and giving other advantages in addition

having slightly ruined my sump :-( i require a new one and was thinkng of puttig baffels in it so i could run cut slcks on trackdays. has any one done this and is there any pics and measurements on how to do this. also a sump guard would be useful' date=' does anyone have one or know where to get one. cheers. lloyd

[/quote']

That is the original question. So in my opinion the ally 24v sump doesnt solve the issue as it isnt baffled to the extent of what a baffled sump would ordinarily look like - bearing in mind that the issue is using on track with cut slicks.

An R32 may be sufficient, but I dont know what the baffles inside look like, and the extra cost of the oil pump and pickup that appears to be needed along with the sump when swapping onto a 12v block would make me go down the line of having a 12v version made.

I have used my previous VR on track with slicks, so having this done was for peace of mind (I want to go down the route of RWD and 6 cylinders, but the time and effort I have put into my project stops me doing this at the present time)

Out of curiosity Kev, did you put the 24v one on specifically because of the baffles inside, or because you needed a new sump anyway, and decided to go this route? One of the reasons I ask is that ally welding is harder that ordinary steel when modding it for the oil return

I shall be putting some pics up of a 12v steel sump with baffle plates in the next week hopefully. I need to pick up a new sump and borrow a spare block before I can

[VR6Pete 1,455]

the R32 sump has the oil return in it already, no need for any additional work required.

Stealth racing say the sumps are "vortech ready" plug and play, so to speak.

[lolek 0]

thank you very much guys, its been interesting reading. the pictures of the 12v sump with baffels would be great, please dont take it off just to photograph it for me. (thiugh that does show dedication to the forum) if you do a few measurements would also be nice so i could modify one myself. cheers everyone :-)

[gav_113 0]

so a 4-motion sump will fit?

and a R32 sump will also fit?

so there is choice of 2 alloy sumps?

[lolek 0]

what about sump guards to protect them?

[FishWick 21]

Out of curiosity Kev' date=' did you put the 24v one on specifically because of the baffles inside, or because you needed a new sump anyway, and decided to go this route? One of the reasons I ask is that ally welding is harder that ordinary steel when modding it for the oil return[/quote']

I needed a new sump anyway because the original steel one (with turbo oil return) became redundant when I decided to return the oil back via the block.

I initially started with an R32 one, but it didn't fit. Probably because of the pump as you say. Then I went with the 2.8 24V one as it wasn't much dearer than the steel one, plus has 'some' baffling, which is better than the no baffling at all of the stock steel item.

The R32 sump has a big, full width windage tray in it. I didn't take it out to see what the baffles were like, if any, but it would have been nice to fit. May revisit that some day.

The ally sumps seem to seal better onto the block too as they're gasketless.

I shall be putting some pics up of a 12v steel sump with baffle plates in the next week hopefully. I need to pick up a new sump and borrow a spare block before I can

Cool. Look forward to seeing that.