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Problems... maybe it's the head? (UPDATE: now with vag-com codes)


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A couple of weeks ago it was raining very heavily, while I was doing some local journeys. When I was about 1/4 of a mile from my house I tried to change from 2nd to 3rd gear. When pressing on the accelerator I failed to get any power, and it felt as if the engine was about to stall. Pushed it into second gear and it seemed to go, but when waiting at a junction idling it almost stalled again. Managed to park it on my road, but the it really wanted to give up.

Started the car the next day, and although it seemed fine for about 45 seconds, after that there was fluctuation of the revs, and it looked like it the engine would stall again. Along with that, there seemed to be an exhaust type smell coming from the engine, and into the car to some extent.

IS IT THE HEAD GASKET?

Thing is, there doesn't seem to be any milky residue on the oil cap, which I thought was always the tell-tale sign. I have been losing coolant, but only over a period of months. It has been quite low, near the minimum, but it's nothing that's happened too quickly.

I think I also need to change the HT leads, as a couple of them seemed a bit knackered according to the guy who did my service a few months back.

What do you think? Is there any sure fire way I can test whether it's the head? Does it sound as if it could be something else?

If it is the head, how much am I looking at, and is it best to do the timing chains and clutch too?

Thanks

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Thing is' date=' there doesn't seem to be any oily residue on the oil cap,

[/quote']

LOL that could be a problem. engines work better with oil in them...lol

But seriously, as said by others pop it on vag com and go from there.

Whoops, I didn't mean "no oily residue", I meant that there's no milky residue on the oil cap which I understand is the tell-tale sign of head problems.

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Hi people

I'm Ch0yc3's brother, just want to clarify a few things about the car.

I took a look at it and it idled realy crappily, when I removed the afm it would smoothen up but then if you opened up the throttle it would actually backfire, mind you it started doing that with the afm in as well. When I started it up it pretty much belched white smoke for good few minutes untill it got to operating temp, the car had been sitting for a month or so. What i've been told is that white ish smoke means that its burning off coolant somehow, which could possibly mean headgasket, or it could have just been the moisture from sitting for a long time?

I also had a sniffer test performed and it came back positive several times, but it took a long time to take effect.

Will this Vag com cable be ok? I think the car is an odb-II model it's an R reg. Also would it be worth doing a compression test on it?

I must admit I don't know much about these cars so any advice would be helpful, I'm going to take a look at the ignition components, do these things run on coilpacks or what? Is there a factory manual available for download somewhere?

Finally if it is a HG where would your reccomend taking it in the N.London Essex area, or are there any nice people who could possibly take a look or something? I'm going to buy the vag com thing if its allright anyway.

Err anyway

Regards

Brett

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So Is your coolant level going down??

After you've been driving it for abit so its hot ect.. is there white smoke getting pumped out the exhaust or does it run clear.

If your oil looks ok eg black and not white then your ok on that side. If your exhaust runs clear then your ok on that side.

But sounds like it could be pressurising your coolant system..

If you got a compression tester you might aswell give it a test, Remove all the leads and disconect the coil pack plug, Remove spark plugs one at a time and turn it over on the starter, Do it hot and cold.

Running problem a VAG.com thing, poss MAF

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Ok so we got the vag.com cable and here are the faults!

Chassis Type: 1H - VW G/J/V Mk3

Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,25,56

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine

Controller: 021 906 256

Component: MOTRONIC M3.8.1 HS V04

Coding: 00000

Shop #: WSC 01317

3 Faults Found:

00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30

07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

01247 - Activated Charcoal Filter (EVAP) System Solenoid Valve 1 (N80)

37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent

00553 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)

31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent

Readiness: N/A

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 03: ABS Brakes

Controller: 3A0 907 379 E

Component: ABS/EDS ITTAE 20 GI V00

Coding: 03704

Shop #: WSC 00000

3 Faults Found:

00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor: Rear Left (G46)

35-00 - -

00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor: Rear Left (G46)

16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent

00287 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor: Rear Right (G44)

35-10 - - - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Skipping Address 15-Airbags

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 25: Immobilizer

Controller: 1H0 953 257 B

Component: IMMO VWZ3Z0V5053702 V00

Coding: 09600

Shop #: WSC 00000

No fault code found.

End --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now that confirms my suspicion that the afm is effed and is why the car is running so crap, I mean it doesnt just idle badly, it struggles to hold revs and in general sounds like its running bad. I'm not sure about the other two codes, anyone here can clue us in?? Also we knew there was a problem with the abs when we bought the car also but i'm more worried about the running of the engine at the moment but if anyone knows about em I guess it would be nice.

Is it worth trying to clean the maf? If so what is the best way to do so.

As for the coolant issue, i'm pretty sure that it's burning coolant. When I started it last week white smoke pissed out of the tailpipe constantly, I turned it off after a few minutes of running. Then I tried it the next day and the coolant warning light came on. Coolant level is below minimum in the resivoir.

Also does anyone know any good specialists in the North London essex area? I called Strictlydubs and they gave me a resonable quote for a HG change but then I don't want to risk running out of coolant on the way (its a 50 mile drive from where we live) even if I fill it up again. As I realy dont know how fast its burning off.

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The coolant is more than likely leaking from the water housing on the side of the head.

Dont worry about the steam from your exhaust when you start the car up' date=' if it clears after a few moments its normal.

Just replace the MAF and check all related wiring.

[/quote']

Well it's not like the usual condensation type stuff you get when you first start a car up, it's allot thicker and has this funny smell to it.

Know anywhere good to buy a MAF from mate? Is it possible to clean the old one, or will it be too far gone for that?

Regards

Brett

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I had a broken wire right on the plug og the MAF too, i barely noticed it at first...

you can clean them, but they are very sensitive, and you could well end up damaging the MAF in doing this, would perhaps be easier to borrow one off someone and see if it improves things?

Does it smell like a rich fuel smell by any chance? and does it seem to happen more when the engine is cold?

Pete.

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I would start by clearing all the codes and scan again in 2 days time to see what comes still.

If this fault still comes back

00553 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)

31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent

Then it's going to be more then likely to be AFM. I've just had similar problem with mine. Where the revs started to go up and down while idling. Vagcom came up with the above fault. Changed it and all seems to be fine.

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