gkjnr 0 Posted March 8, 2008 Report Share Posted March 8, 2008 i,ve fitted my zr2 charger and the car will take full throttle but if i just lightly touch the pedal it stutters badly it does this in all gears and all speeds i just rest my foot on the pedal and it stuters, i,ve changed the maf and idle valve and checked all the wiring,a couple of things crossed my mind before i fitted the charger when i pulled up at junctions it would sometimes stall, now since i,ve fitted the charger ,and i might add i had to use some of the standard pipework, it does it all the time,i,ve searched forum upon forum for answers but nothing,now i,ve been thinking could an air leak in one of the pipes cause this,? i might also add it goes really well when i floor it ,so please help its driving me bonkers Link to post Share on other sites
Bobtrude 0 Posted March 8, 2008 Report Share Posted March 8, 2008 Is your dump valve return or does it dump out into the atmosphere? Mine was atmos and that cased some of the similar problems, but not the one with the stuttering tough. Link to post Share on other sites
xyber 1 Posted March 9, 2008 Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 has it been mapped yet? Link to post Share on other sites
rodney 17 Posted March 9, 2008 Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 Check that the connection on the charger is sealed correctly! Then check the connection on to the throttle body. AS the air seals are key as you say.After that the main question is about remapping and which injectors/regulator are you running?The car will run rich as hell as soon as you fit these bits so unless the map is updated and timing retarded then the fuel could simply drown the spark.thats the basics for ya! Link to post Share on other sites
Bobtrude 0 Posted March 9, 2008 Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 I asumed you had mapped it:). This is ofcourse a must. (you could just use a chip, but if you are really papanoid about nothing going wrong, then get it mapped.) Thats what I did, and there was some problems that occured that I know I wouldnt be able to notice. . . . Link to post Share on other sites
gkjnr 0 Posted March 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 its a z-engineeering zr2 charger it has no dump valve,it came with a z engineering chip which should suit the setup ok i know it won,t be 100% cos every car is different but it should run good , i really want to know would an air leak cause this problem because i,ve really checked everything else Link to post Share on other sites
xyber 1 Posted March 9, 2008 Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 is there no dump/recirc valve at all? some way of it recycling the boost/charger flow whilst the TB is closed? Link to post Share on other sites
gkjnr 0 Posted March 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 no they are designed to run this way, all the kit is there cos i,ve got a checklist from z engineereing and its complete ,so would a airleak cos this problem Link to post Share on other sites
xyber 1 Posted March 9, 2008 Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 I would think only if the leak was between the MAF and TBwhat was the chip specs? I would say that thats the main culprit at the moment, its not set for using bigger injectors or anything like that is it as its probably a US style chip and the love chucking the fuel in over there Link to post Share on other sites
jaysVR6 2 Posted March 9, 2008 Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 Hi there mate, i've had a lot of experience with Z chargers on a VR6's. Your correct in saying the Z doesn't require a dump valve, complete waste of time and does nothing, even on most supercharged cars, it's a little pointless tbh, unless you're running megga boost.As for the stuttering issues, are you running it with or without the MAF connected? Can you also tell me if you've positioned the MAF before or after the Charger? What year is your VR, is it an OBD1 or 2? I may be able to help you come to some kind of solution. Link to post Share on other sites
gkjnr 0 Posted March 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 hi mate its got a maf aftter the charger as it says it should be this way in the fitting guide, its obd1,it was doing the stalling at junctions trick before i fitted the charger and sincec i fitted the charger its got worse, the only things that are the same from before and after the charger was fitted are the pipe running from the maf to the throttle body as the one supplied didnt fit so i had to cut the origional pipework to make it fit(silicone replacements on order) and the throttle body. Link to post Share on other sites
xyber 1 Posted March 9, 2008 Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 have you had it on VAGCOM yet? Link to post Share on other sites
gkjnr 0 Posted March 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 no access to vagcom Link to post Share on other sites
xyber 1 Posted March 9, 2008 Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 might be worth paying to get it done rather than chasing a fault around for ages Link to post Share on other sites
Bobtrude 0 Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 yes i agree, vagcom, you can get it cheap og the bay . . . . . Link to post Share on other sites
gkjnr 0 Posted March 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 i,ve had a look but everything is obd2 and i,m obd1 and to be honest i,ve no clue about vag-com or how it works and what i need can you get a hand held code reader Link to post Share on other sites
xyber 1 Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 you can but they arent brilliant as they are just a generic type reader, they are about £20 but really if you find somewhere or someone local (ask around on here) some places are about £50, if you find someone on here, a few pints worth ( , its worth the outlay though just to get a definative diagnosis, eith that or start replacing sensors and stuff that may not fix the problem and quickly mount up to over the cost of a diagnostic check Link to post Share on other sites
gkjnr 0 Posted March 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 right heres an update ,i,ve cleaned the tghrottle body ,it was clean anyway and put on a new gasket, i,vew now noticed when its ticking over if i pull the plug off the maf it ticks over smoother,i pulled a plug and they seem fine and i went out in it earlier on and my god it goes like stink on the throttle , but thats no use if its crap to drive any other time is it? Link to post Share on other sites
xyber 1 Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 have you reset the ECU at all? Disconect the battery for an hour or so and then when its reconnected it will re-jig itselfworth a go if you havnt already Link to post Share on other sites
gkjnr 0 Posted March 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 yea mate tried that i,m going to see if the local parts shop will let me borrow a maf to try, i see gsf do them for £50 i was quoted £280 by one of the local motor factors and £230 by the local vw dealer Link to post Share on other sites
xyber 1 Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 Yeah GSF is cheapest, i have a feeleing they do it on an exchange basis though Link to post Share on other sites
gkjnr 0 Posted March 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 thats no problem, i still havnt had an answer to my question ,though, are the symptoms i,m describing likely to be the maf? Link to post Share on other sites
craggsy 91 Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 Well if you unplugged the MAF and it got better then id say it is Link to post Share on other sites
gkjnr 0 Posted March 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 thanks thats what i wanted to hear , i hope your right cos its doing my head in! Link to post Share on other sites
gkjnr 0 Posted March 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 latest update, my maf is an early one which surprise surprise is the dear one £230, anyway i came home to take it out to show a local motor factors it and found the inside of it to be soaked in oil, now this is not good so its sitting in petrol just now getting cleaned, but my problem is the breather pipe from the rocker cover goes to the charger inlet and this must be whats causing the problem so can i just put the pipe into a catch tank and block off the inlet on the charger , i take it its just to get rid of excess fumes or does it in some way drive the charger? Link to post Share on other sites
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