Building a race vr6 engine

[Silverback 0]

Hey all, well i'm looking at building a race engine now for my vr

I'm looking at getting wiesco forged pistons, forged rod's rifle drilled, 263 cam's, oversized performance valves, high lift springs and titanium retainers. Have i left anything out? Also i'm now able to get the rod's for £800 which seem's pretty good. Does anyone know of anywhere else that can match this? Any comments appreciated

[Silverback 0]

Also.. Whats better.. Wossner or wiesco?

[Phat VR6 3]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-VR6-Audi-A3-TT-3-2-Connecting-Rods-Conrods-Pleuel_W0QQitemZ350025354127QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116 These rods are alot cheeper and still 4340 H beem, Unsure about the make but only £340 and are ment to take 1000bhp

How about a big valve port and polished head

[Silverback 0]

Is it me or do they seem a bit 2 cheap? Lol, already got ported and polished head, though will be putting oversize exhaust and inlet valves, prob boring pistons to 3.0, oh and will be getting the crank, flywheel, pistons and rod's all balanced and knife edge the crank.. Been told not to bother with titanium retainers or high lift springs (as suggested by a tuning company.. Not sure why though)

[Silverback 0]

Wow.. Can get those pistons for £500 delivered.. Impressed!

[Eat this 2]

my understanding of solid lifters are that you only need them over 7200 ish rpm because hydraulic valves bounce because they dont react fast enough

why 263 cams and not 268s or higher mate? i had them on my vr lost no low rpm torque but they held the torque alot better at higher rpm

[Silverback 0]

Bec my vr6 is turbo'd m8

[Silverback 0]

Anyone know of where u'd get rod's rifle drilled? Ebay one's are tempting.. Just not sure if its worth spending the extra and getting pauter one's like i'd planned

[Eat this 2]

Bec my vr6 is turbo'd m8

ah niiiiice

[Silverback 0]

Lol cheers m8

[Phat VR6 3]

Id be very tempted to go with it ebay ones.. tbf most people seem to keep standard rods upto 400 bhp so them H beams should be sound i recon

Is the rifle drilling somthink todo with the oil ways? I wouldn't think you realy need it doing, if anyone has i would think it was stealth

Anyway this sounds like a beast your making, what bhp ect and boost you aiming for?

[Silverback 0]

If u rifle drill the rod's it allows oil to circulate to the back keeping everything lubricated and keeps temp's lower though someone could prob explain it alot better than me.. I'll find out on monday if its def my rings that have gone. If it is i'll order those rod's prob and the pistons next week as i'll be looking to rebuild the engine to boost at least 500bhp... I'm at 300bhp and 310ft/lb torque at the mo which i'm sorta happy with but if my rings have gone then it'll be time for forged internals.. Just bought the emerald k3 this week so can't wait to get it fitted..

[Silverback 0]

Btw boosting 10psi at the min though will be aiming for alot more if using forged internals

[Silverback 0]

By which point i'm hoping someone will swap me an r32 lol.. Such nice cars

[rodney 17]

worth a look at the DIY thread just revived. There are some interesting bits on there. He has also modded the oil flow for direct injection... Have a read quite interesting...

Are you going to be track racing this??? I ask because of ensuring the oil is still available/pumped under hard cornering etc so may be soemthing to look at....

Also how far are you going with this? Are you getting the chambers and vavles checked for equal volumes etc etc???

[Silverback 0]

Haven't really thought about it yet m8.. Alot comes down to what i get told on monday so we'll have to wait n see

[Silverback 0]

Still trying to work out why i've been told not to bother with titanium retainers, and heavy duty springs.... Anyone?

[Phat VR6 3]

I think its because there made for a high reving engines and even tho your going turbo your not going to be reving over 7500 normaly. so there not needed

R32s are very nice cars altho abit heavy.. Personly at my age id rather put a r32 in my mk3 lol

[Silverback 0]

Lol so would i if had the money.. Think i'll just concentrate on my engine for now.. Just wish it wasn't gonna cost a fortune lol..

[Silverback 0]

What about hydraulic lifters, they gonna be worth getting?

[Silverback 0]

worth a look at the DIY thread just revived. There are some interesting bits on there. He has also modded the oil flow for direct injection... Have a read quite interesting...

Are you going to be track racing this??? I ask because of ensuring the oil is still available/pumped under hard cornering etc so may be soemthing to look at....

Also how far are you going with this? Are you getting the chambers and vavles checked for equal volumes etc etc???

Kevhaywire is a very talented bloke.. I wouldn't mind redirecting the oil feed etc, but that will be left to the garage if it comes to it

[Phat VR6 3]

You can get lightweight hydrolic lifter altho there not going to make a big difference... If they don't tap now then theres no reason to change them imo

I know what your saying about the cost. ive always wanted to fully build an engine for when i go turbo but having looked over vw vortex it seems most people use standard rods and pistons up to 400 bhp so ill probaly be doing that to start off with. Fully built engines tend to be for people that drag there cars or run silly bhp altho if you can afford it go for it lol

If its only your bores and ring that are fucked how about 2.9 (3.0 makes the walls to thin between cylinders for F/I) low compression pistons and them rods and then leave it at that..

I think the balancing and knife egdeing are normaly for realy high reving N/A motors

whats wrong with your engine then? Guessing blue smoke or low comprestion..

[Silverback 0]

Smoking when boosting.. Greyish.. Alot :-(

Ok so prob go for forged piston's, forged rod's of the bay, stage 5 head from hiflow though curious how much that is from the bill schimmel as i've been quoted £800 for the head with bigger inlet and exhaust valves, as for balancing stuff it seems pretty cheap to balance the rod's and piston's and i got quoted £300 to knife edge the crank and lighten and balance the fly wheel so thought that was pretty good? Just don't want to have to rip it apart again due to labour costs

[Silverback 0]

Is that 83mm then on the pistons?

[FishWick 21]

83mm Wossner 8:1s :-) With the VW steel gasket, you get 8.5:1 ;-) Gives you 2937cc.

I wouldn't waste your money on crank work mate. VW did a good job on the balancing it at the factory, although if you wanted to, you could balance the crank and the flywheel/clutch as one unit. Very time consuming though.

I've never checked, but if the VR6's crank throw is well above the oil level, I personally wouldn't bother knife edging it. You won't see much of a gain for the outlay.

Stock rods are OK up to 500ish. The Crower rods Bill Schimmel sell are proven to hold 800whp and good value at $900.

Titanium valve caps, keepers and HD springs are needed to achieve 7500rpm. Stock INA lifters can just about cope with that. If you plan on revving that far, you will also need turbo and head flow to match. You'll need a beefy exhaust housing, 0.82 AR minimum.

As you can see, when you want high power and high revs, the costs start tripling!

If you want a midrange punchy engine and not fussed it'll run out of puff past 5800rpm, you can stick to the stock head and internals and use a spacer.

The oil drain to the block is my preference, not essential. You can't do it with the engine in situ, but if the engine is out, I would recommend it. Much better than draining back to the sump, especially with GTR turbos.