finny 0 Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 Having no real mechanical experience, I changed the front suspension yesterday (first time ever), using the knowledge vault guideCouple of things: impact wrench (£20) was a must for me, no way would I have got the bolts free otherwise.Not sure what I was doing wrong but the securing nut that fits on the strut above the rubber top mounts went through the thin top mount 'rim'. This meant the top mount flew off (a few times) from either me tightening the first securing nut down or when releasing the spring clamps and the spring pressure woud pop off the rubber topmount.I reassembled how I found the strut when dismantling it. So in order from top of the spring:spring/ metal top plate/ new bearings into underside of new rubber top mount/ first securing nut - placed underside of strut turret - metal top mount/ 21mm securing nut.Off side was fitted fine but the near side, dosen't shown much thread above the metal top mount. I tried tightening the 21mm nut but the metal top mount kept spining round and round. With the 7mm allen key in to prevent it spinning I couldn't get any more thread showing - it feels secured and in place though!I'd moved the car and turned the wheels etc; got a number of suspension twangs- assume the springs just needs to stettle into place. Didn't hear anymore after a few corners.Going to get a computerised tracking done but not sure whether the nearside needs to be refitted as the first securing nut went through the rubber top mount. The strut was in place so the rubber mount couldn't go anywhere (this time).Any tips/ advice/ should have dones/ checks before getting the suspension alinged? Link to post Share on other sites
finny 0 Posted October 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 Went to some tyre outlet for tracking/ camber adjustment. Once on the ramps, they spotted knacked rear wishbone bushes and they said no point them doing anything until these are replaced. Also said the driver's side tie rod end was seized.I might have discovered why the top mount is not secure. The spring metal plate 1'd fitted may be upside down. This was how I found it from removing the existing dampers of the car, so naturally assumed this is how it fits. I found the 'cone' part of the spring plate at the bottom of the spring. This should be at the top, so the bearing sits on top of the cone and not in it.....doh Link to post Share on other sites
rodney 17 Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 I was going to say soemthing didnt sound right. You ned to always have at least 3 threads above a nut to ensure it is fixed securely.So that'll be coming off again then..... good luck Link to post Share on other sites
finny 0 Posted October 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2008 Removed both front struts today and corrected how the spring plate should sit and its all dandy.Started to replace the wishbones and I got two problems.a) One of the existing ball joint bolts just goes round and round. Can't get a good enough grip. So started to dremel it off. Still on going. Can't get the front bolt of the wishobone off, even with my impact wrench. i) Have soaked it in WD40 and other releasing lubes.ii) If I apply heat to the head of the bolt only, what are the dangers of heat transfer and melting the front rubber bush internally?iii) any other ideas? Link to post Share on other sites
finny 0 Posted October 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 Problems all solved.Used an angle grinder to wear away the bolt.Wishbone font bolt was a nightmare. I started to round the bolt. I got a mobile mechanic in and he dropped and removed the subframe; used heat and everything. In the end he took away and welded another socket over the bolt and got the mother off.With the subframe off, the other side came off quote easily.So now replaced ball joints, track rod & ends & arb links rods. Feels like a new car.Only small problem now is a offset steering wheel. From reading the forums. With the car wheels facing straight, I'll disconnect the battery and wait a bit. Undo two allen bolts behind the steering wheel to remove the airbag, disconnect the airbag wires?. One large nut to remove and then lift and reset the steer wheel to be straight. Is it that simple? Link to post Share on other sites
kernowdrewsta 0 Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 Went to some tyre outlet for tracking/ camber adjustment. Once on the ramps' date=' they spotted knacked rear wishbone bushes and they said no point them doing anything until these are replaced. Also said the driver's side tie rod end was seized.I might have discovered why the top mount is not secure. The spring metal plate 1'd fitted may be upside down. This was how I found it from removing the existing dampers of the car, so naturally assumed this is how it fits. I found the 'cone' part of the spring plate at the bottom of the spring. This should be at the top, so the bearing sits on top of the cone and not in it.....doh[/quote'] Link to post Share on other sites
TheMainManRob 0 Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 What you said about the steering wheel is correct finny, make sure the wheels are dead straight though or you'll find that you'll have to do it more than once. Link to post Share on other sites
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