Groaning noise when pulling away

[ip 0]

A few weeks ago (when running stock suspension) I noticed a groaning noise when pulling away and a knocking sound when driving over cobbles. I had a look at the wishbones and arb links and noticed the bushes were very worn.

So, I embarked on a marathon suspension rebuild which has included a full new set of shocks, springs (H&R 30mm lowering), wishbones, ball joints, arb links, top mounts and top mount bearings. It took a few weekends and a trip the garage to get it all fitted and it all looks great now.

Unfortunately, the groaning noise is still there! It only happens when pulling away forward (not pulling away in reverse) or when braking while reversing. iI's also getting worse and sometimes manifest itself as a clunk/knock when depressing the clutch after accelerating hard in first gear. I'm fairly sure it is from the driver's side and obviously relates somehow to the wheel being pulled toward the front of the car (pulling away forward or braking while reversing both drag the wheel forward).

I thought it might be an engine mount but then noticed that it also happens when braking in reverse so now I am not so sure.

I'm at my wits end with this so any advice would be great.

ip

[rodney 17]

It could be and does sound about right... for the engine mount.... otherwise I would have thought that the work you did was the solution.

Only one way to have a look at those mounts though..

The other thing of course is it could be your wallet under hard acceleration as it thinks of the fuel......

[ip 0]

Under hard acceleration? I wish.The only driving I've been doing recently is to and from the parts shop! The fuel bills I can live with, it's the the constant repairs that are killing me.

What's the best way to asses an engine mount's condition? If I lift the clutch and give it some revs with the handbrake on, the engine moves a lot in the engine bay but this seems expected to me. How much movement should I expect?

Plus, the noise also happens when braking in reverse witht he clutch fully depressed (engine not loaded). So I'd kind of discounted the engine mounts on those grounds.

Could anyone describe the expected symptons when engine mount fail?

Cheers,

ip

[ip 0]

No other thoughts on this? Could a steering rack cause this problem?

[Phat VR6 3]

does sound like engine mount as when you brake the engine can shift (doesn't have to be in gear)

The way to check is get someone in the car with handbrake on and lift clutch up and down while you look at the engine mounts

failing that it sounds like you've left somthink loose (easy to do when you carry out a number of jobs at the same time)

Ive had it on mine with the front wishbone bolt, Altho bolt was TIGHT it still hadn't gripped the metal sleeve inside the bush, I removed the bolt cleaned threads small amount of copper grease and tighten again this time did the job, shitty theads stopped it going all the way

So unlucky for you it looks like you need to put a bar over everythink just to make sure

donno what the groaning nise could be lol

[ip 0]

Cool, the engine does move when you try the handbraked test you describe but I'm not sure how much it is meant to do that. Some movement is obviously normal. Any guide to haow much movement I should expect?

I'll do the test again and watch the mounts themselves and see if anything looks excessively worn.

I'll get the torque wrench on all the affected bolts and see what's what. The bolts were all new though and the threads clean so 'd be surprised if any were loose. I'll give the ball joints a nuts nip though as I guess they could work lose as they bed in.

Cheers,

ip

[Phat VR6 3]

Its normal for the engine to more quite alot. mine was about 1.5-2" ummmm its hard to say as everythink is new lol, ball joint would make the knocking noise but as you say there brand new

Knocking noise doesn't happen more on full lock does it?

Also have a look along the exhaust system to make sure its not knocking on somthing (rear axal?)

What ever it is its probaly going to get worse lol when it does it will be easyer to see lol

If your standing still and turn the wheel left to right does it make any noise?

[ip 0]

Noise is no worse at any point lock to lock and steering is smooth across full range lock to lock.

Exhaust is properly attached with a full set of new mounts (yes I'm clearly obsessive).

What's worse, compression tested the engine on Saturday and got 11 bar on every cylinder. So the engine is sweet and I have no excuse to get shot of the car.

Looks like I'll have to do as you say and wait for it to get bad enough for it to become obvious. Hope the wheels stay on in the meantime!

ip

[ip 0]

Ain't it always the way? Simplest explanantion is the best. I decided to retrace my steps and retighten every bolt.The front bolt on the driver's side wishbone wasn''t exactly loose but it wasn't hugley tight either. One extra 1/4 turn sovled the isseu. Amazing how much noise it was making for one very slightly loose bolt.

Odd because I'd tightened and checked it for the correct torque on installation (with a dcent teng wrench). I guess maybe it wasn't sitting 100% right at the time and shifted with driving.

Either way, am so much happier with it now. Brakes, steering and acceleraion all feel and sound much smoother. Amazing what a difference a small amount of play was making to the handling.

ip