THE VRT Q&A THREAD

[sharky_70 0]

I know there's a few people on here starting to gather parts together, so instead of clogging up the Tuning forum with loads of seperate VRT threads ok, so i thought it might be a good idea to have a VRT Q&A so all the information is in the same place.

we'll need to stick to a format, so when youre asking a question, start your reply with the header NEW QUESTION. if youre answering a previous question or adding to that conversation start with the header REPLY TO... and the question youre replying to.

if the mods/admin dont think this is such a good idea then drop me a message and feel free to close the topic.

[sharky_70 0]

NEW QUESTION: saab 95 fmic

on another forum i was reading about a guy superchanging is 16v, he used a saab 95 fmic. reasons being it was cheap and easily available, also said it fitted almost perfectly on the mk3 rad support, and only needed minimal trimming and no hacking at the back of the bumper. my Q is would this work well enough on a VRT? i asked him over the forum but he never got back to me

[CorradoVR6-n.o.s 0]

genral standard intercoolers will not flow enoght for a VR,for starters is the saab dieslel or petrol.

[craggsy 91]

Fine by me as long as things stay on subject...... no doubt Jim Potter will be along so he can keep an eye on things in here for us

[FishWick 21]

REPLY TO.... Saab 95 fmic

As James said, it's probably a little small for a VR Turbo. Apart from the Viggens, they're all low pressure engines and most OEs fit an IC that's just good enough and no more - to save on costs. Even whacking the boost up on 1.8Ts with their little turbos often requires a larger intercooler.

Have a look at it first though. It might be a lot bigger than anticipated and do the job.

[jims13 6]

REPLY YO SAAB 95.....i have used a sabb 9000 intercooler before and it was working fine at around 330bhp on my 200sx.. i also believe these should fit well behind a vr front end, and both end caps are at the top or bottom depending on how you orenate it.

[sharky_70 0]

thanks guys, i'll do a little more research on them and check out the sizes

[kcw 1]

NEW QUESTION: OIL FEEDS & RETURNS

I'll be buying all my bits separately (sp?) and not a kit, probably in the same boat as the rest of you guys. Where do you guys get things like oil feeds and returns from? waterline etc?

Thanks, Ken

[Radostormvr6 2]

NEW QUESTION: OIL FEEDS & RETURNS

I'll be buying all my bits separately (sp?) and not a kit' date=' probably in the same boat as the rest of you guys. Where do you guys get things like oil feeds and returns from? waterline etc?

Thanks, Ken

[/quote']

This the best place http://www.atpturbo.com/ for all Turbo spares

[FishWick 21]

Or nearer to home - www.speedflow.co.uk

I made my own oil feed line with braided hose and stainless ends. Don't need special tools to make up yourself, but it means you can make the feed line the exact length you need.

For the drain, just some -10 hi temp rubber hose will work. Speedflow sell the fittings for that too....and the hose.

Use the best quality hose and ends you can afford. Cheap schitt is a false economy and won't withstand the heat.

[joelounge 0]

just gathering all the parts for a stage 1 cnversion, who is best for a remap? and do i need to chamge the standard injectors? if so to what?

Thanks

[FishWick 21]

If Stage 1 = 6psi, then the stock injectors and fuel pump just about have enough guts in them with a 4 bar regulator, but keep an eye on the AF ratio, fuel pressure and EGTs.

Personally speaking, I would uprate both, even at low boost. It's better to have more fuel flow than is needed and pull it back in software, than not enough and destroy the engine.

Walbro 255/lh in tank and Bosch red tops (310cc) will give you enough for 6 - 12psi.

12 - 18psi, use 440cc.

18 - 25psi, use 630cc + additional in line pump relayed off the battery.

25psi + - You're looking at 800+cc injectors and a stronger pump, free flow filter, bigger fuel lines and rail etc etc.

So you need to decide what you want from the engine now and in the future and budget accordingly.

Once you exceed 18psi, things get very expensive.

gearboxes break, tyres get chewed within months, sometimes weeks, brake pads < 1 year, CV joints pop, and fuel consumption goes through the roof.

It's worth it though !

[sharky_70 0]

does anyone know if there is an off the shelf DP available for use with the SPA manifold?

[FishWick 21]

http://www.spaturbo.com.br/joomla//component/page,shop.product_details/flypage,shop.flypage/product_id,1833/category_id,151/manufacturer_id,0/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,60/

Dunno if they'll sell the pipe seperately though....

C2 were supposed to be making a bolt on turbo kit for RHD cars but I haven't heard anything new on that....

[sharky_70 0]

cheers Kev i'll drop them a message and see what they say

NEW QUESTION

what are peoples opinions/preferences for boost control?

looking at either apexi avcr or greddy profec b

[FishWick 21]

Try a manual boost controller first and see how you feel after that. I like the little boost spike you get with MBCs....it's what makes a turbo engine feel like a turbo engine :-) If you want an IBC, I would go Apexi AVCR.

[sharky_70 0]

hadnt considered going manual before hand

again, any particular model you would recommend?

[rigs 0]

Apexi avcrs are brilliant and have a nice function to take out the boost spike... which is good if you want your gearbox to last

AVCR also has gear and rev based boost control which is handy for getting power down in a fwd car.

[sharky_70 0]

sounding like a good investment then

[FishWick 21]

Suprisingly the best MBC I've used is a cheap ebay one - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Manual-Boost-Controller-Toyota-MR2-Turbo-Supra-GT4_W0QQitemZ130286014297QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item130286014297&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1689%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318.

Just don't use a TurboSmart boost tee, they spike quite badly.

Spiking can also be caused by some wastegates (Tial 38mm for example), so spiking isn't always boost controller related.

As mentioned earlier, it's down to taste. I prefer the feel of MBCs. IBCs feel too synthetic and controlling, a bit like a factory 1.8T's boost control, which isn't pleasant imo.....

You can buy my Apexi if you like. New and unused. I don't think I'm going to bother with it.

[sharky_70 0]

ok cool

kev let me know how much you want for it, i'll bare it in mind once i get up and running. go with the manual for a start to keep costs down and see how it feels

[sharky_70 0]

also i noticed from your sig that youre using a different wideband now? what have you done with your innovate gubbins?

[FishWick 21]

Put in the bin where it belongs :-)

[sharky_70 0]

o rly? not happy with it?

[FishWick 21]

I had an early LC-1 and it was quite poor to be honest. I hear they've been improved recently though.

The PLX just plugs in and goes and better still, it matches the reference Motec PLM Vince uses on the dyno, so we know it's accurate. The LC-1 used to be 1 AFR adrift, so when the Motec, DTA and PLX all agreed on the same AFR, it was quite clear the LC-1 wasn't quite right so I flogged it!