Base Engine for a turbo project?

[kcw 1]

Basically really wanting to have a VRT up and running before summer, get some 1/4 miles in but my obd2 VR needs atleast valve stem oil seals and chains/tensioners replaced so I was thinking of going for a newer engine.

An R32 is the first thing that comes to mind especially as R32 turbos seem to generate much more power compared to a similarly spec'd VR6 engine, guess thats the advantage of an engine that wasnt first used nearly 18 years ago lol

The trouble is when a R32 engine pops up on forums or ebay they go for an absolute fortune. So I was thinking about the 24valve VR you get in the V6 4motion. What I wanna know are what parts etc are avaialbe for the V6 4motion engine (manifolds etc) and would it be worth it over rebuilding my VR and turboing it.

Thanks in advance

Ken

[Phat VR6 3]

Depends what power you want from it.

The way i look at it is that if you build a VR to the speck that kevs got with all the head work ect, running 400bhp at 11psi then if you want turn it upto to 20psi then you've got a silly amount of power

Advantage of R32 is you could run less boost and still have the same power making the R32 more reliable, But a fully built VR is reliable anyway

So imo If you want more than 500bhp... have money to spare and want something more unique then put a R32 in

Happy with 400bhp and not bothered about owning somthing thats been done before stay with the VR

[xyber 1]

R32 engine and box often pop up on ebay for sub £1500 if you keep an eye out

dont forget the Audi equivelent that often get over looked for some reason when people search on ebay

[kcw 1]

Yeh there's one on there the now for £1500 and one on E38 for a similar amount, but the 2.8 24v doesnt get as much attention as the R32 and audi 3.2 so could probably pick up quite cheap.

How do the 2 engines differ? Is there alot separating the two of them or more or less just the R32 has an extra 400cc?

[CorradoVR6-n.o.s 0]

the R32 has a bigger head and larger pistons to name a few...its a good engine if you want hugh hp!

The 12v is an old engine and mine is is capable of running 400hp+.thats all on a stock motor with spacer plate....put that 400 hp on the road in the real world....its fuc*ing fast! and any more hp is a blur!!

If your motor is tierd and needs a rebuild then yes i would say put a 24v motor in due to the cost of rebuilding the 12v could be higher.

As for which 24v 2.8 or 3.2...it really depends on how much you get the engine for and what future hp targets you want.

Just to note a full R32 motor..box...full loom etc sold on the CF for £1500.00!!

[kcw 1]

I see what your saying and I'm not denying that the the 12v vr can be a seriously powerful motor even if just running a spacer, but with a more efficient engine as a base you can stress the engine less.

Power wise I'm not wanting any more than 400, or even that, my mates 'disco potato'd 20v seems insanely fast and its only running actuator pressure, surely 400hp is the max you could effectively apply in a FWD car?

Any ideas what kinda money I'd be looking at for a rebuild on the 12v? I'd like to say I would do it myself but its my daily so need it off the road for as little as possible.

Thanks again, Ken

[Phat VR6 3]

doing it yourself is faster than handing it to a garage

Do you know what your doing?

rebuild can be anywhere from £400 for shells rings chains headgauket

Or you could spend 6 times that with new pistons rods tappits rebore bla bla bla

If you only want 400 then just drop your head off.. add spacer and apr head/ rods new chains and go drive it

[CorradoVR6-n.o.s 0]

i love peeps who say i only want 400hp ha ha!!

But when i take them out in mine they get scared shitless! plus the power to weight is good to!

Now it depends what kind of rebuild you are after,if its a bottom end refresh ie no rebore pistons etc and chains guides that sort of thing it could still be up to a grand but it relly depends on the garage you take it to what the price will be,

R32 are the new rage now...cheapish to get hold of but still will cost more to get fitted by a garge. but seem to be in the price range of 3-4k supplied and fitted.,,,,then if you want more power its always going to be more expensive to make an R32 froced induction than the well established 12v

Doing it yourself will save you some dosh! fit the chains guides,spacer plate,new set of rings and shells ect will cost allot less than you think and then money left over for turbo/supercharger!

I managed to get hold of a brand new OEM in the crate bottom end for mine,rebuilt the hole engine with later chains,thrust washers ...the full lot for just shy of a grand.

Lots of options...but it still depends on your budget.

[CorradoVR6-n.o.s 0]

As for traction....you going to love me for this put the corrado puts power down allot better than the golfs,but saying that a well fettled gearbox with diff,good suspension and tyres will see you off the line well...in the wet...well...um...just dont do it..ha ha!

[CorradoVR6-n.o.s 0]

double post...

[kcw 1]

I used to be a mechanic, but the only reason I wasnt too keen on stripping it down is that I've never worked on an engine which used chains instead of belts.

CorradoVR6-nos I've just looked through the majority of your thread on the Corrado Forum, I really like your engine bay, the way your turbo sits etc, how much work is the involved in making the ATP manifold fit on a RHD car?

Realistically I could have a budget of around 2.5/3k, after going through Jims thread it should be easy but looks like a 24v is out of the question lol

How much can you get a turbo for? what you running CorradoVR6-nos?

[CorradoVR6-n.o.s 0]

its easy as pie mate,if you got spanner experiance then this engine is one of the easiest! and me and many others will help you on the way.

The ATP turbo will work fine,you will need to put remote resivours on but thats not a hard job.

My Turbo is a E-Bay cheap one...cost me £50 quid and its a T70 with a 1.02 hot side.

When money allows it will be replaced with a garrett GT35R with a .82 hot side.

have a look through my photobucket site....there is lots there to inspire you with different manifold types etc.

http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h278/Slapsider/Red%20VR6%20Turbo/

[kcw 1]

Thanks mate, I like the look of that one your fabbing up, how well do think that'll flow?

Are the cheap ebay turbos worth the hastle? Proper Garrett GT35s are just over the £1000s mark, yet a similarly sized ebay one is more like 3-400 I wouldn't wanna spoil the way the boost is delivered. How does your turbo behave corradovr6nos?

Thanks again

[CorradoVR6-n.o.s 0]

It flows well,ive ported the stock headers and used 2" piping for the manifold,larger than any cast ive seen,the GT35R is pricey but a quality piece of kit,had this on my first VRT and it spooled so quick.

The cheap ebay one now spools at 3300 and is fully spooled by 3800rpm and thats with a large hot side,if you get one with .82 hot side i recon you could get that to be fully spooled by 3500rpm.

They are worth it as they are cheap,the skyline lads run them with no faults,only the smaller turbos suffer.

I straved mine of oil,gave it to much and it still runs sweet,nice and smooth with no play at all!

If it screws up then fine it was cheap...

[CorradoVR6-n.o.s 0]

and mine is very...very smooth in its power,but a large part of that is down to your set up of fuelling and managment.

[kcw 1]

I was just looking on ebay there the T70 you have is £180 delivered that's silly money, if it did go pop what other components might be damaged? You got a video of your car in action?

[CorradoVR6-n.o.s 0]

It should not go pop mate,most that could happen is the oil seals pop and it smokes it brains out...its more likley that a foreign debris will enter the turbo from the engine and result in a total engine loss situation.

But that could happen with ANY Turbo.

No videos yet mate...will be in the summer.

[FishWick 21]

The only thing that concerns me about R32 turbos in FWD applications is traction, or lack of! :-)

Personally I think the 2.8 24V is probably a wiser and saner choice for a road car. If you've got 4WD, then I'd defo go R32 turbo as the extra bottom end torque helps overcome the drivetrain weight and you stand a better chance of traction if you nail it off the line.

Having said that, my mate's Evo IX FQ 360 (which has a MASSIVELY better 4WD system than Golf R32s) easily spins all 4 wheels off the line this time of year.....but I still can't keep up with him. I only start to pull him in half way through 4th.

[jims13 6]

kev, i thought you didnt race evo's ..i saw you as a more of a bmw rep mobile man.

this time of the year , i cant even beat a nova of the line. i can however torque steer into him

[kcw 1]

I only I had the money for awd, ach well gotta be happy with what you got . . . . apart from how much power I have lol

Cheers for the advice on the 24vs Kev but I think I'll try get a few days off work and get the chains done, just the whole guide thats on here. Worth while putting a low comp spacer in the now or will it be really low on power?

Ken

[jims13 6]

you can do as it gonna be apart.. thats assuming the rest of the engine is good.

[kcw 1]

What do you suggest I do to check its all healthy? Compression test? The head definitely needs new valve stem oil seals but guess it might worthwhile getting some Schimmel cams in as its gonna be apart.

[CLEG-VR6 0]

i hae a vr6 block, te basic engine obd2 1996 if its any good to you

[jims13 6]

compression test is a good place to start.. deffo do the valve stem oil seals..and check the rings..but compression test would tell you all this anyway..

cams again, good idea if you are gona add them anyway and have the spare wonga.. but a good engine is the best place to start..check little ends , crank , bore wear etc.. i ended up using my 170000 mile engine as it was in better conditionm than the supposed 90000 mile one i brought that had a little end problem, and loads of float in 1 piston.

[kcw 1]

Cheers for the advice Jim, I had the car rr'd 2 months back and it made decent power so it may be ok but I'd rather have a look for myself as opposed to just assuming.

On another note I was about to buy a Schimmel spacer and gasket set but they come in 4 different compression ratios, whats best?

10.2:1

9.4:1

9:1

8.6:1

Ken