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HELP.. vr6 turbo running like sh*t


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RIght people, got the vr turbo serviced last month and when i got it back it was running crap. When i put my foot down it like stutters when its boosting, mainly in 1st and 2nd or higher rev range. I can put my foot down in 1st gear then about 3500 4000 rpm, it hesitates and splutters, sort of like its over fuelling. It was fine before the service. Turned out my mate had put vr6 plugs in it so got these changed for NGK BKR7E which are recommended for this and what the previous owner had it running on. Put 5w40 oil in as recommended by previous owner.

What could it be guys? a coinsidence that something has gone when its been serviced or done something wrong?

Cheers

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have the plugs been gapped?

You can't install spak plug made for a VR6 out the box' date=' you have to gap the spak plug for your set up. Remember there is no VR6 turbo from Factory, you have to gap them, otherwise the engine will "KA_BOOMM!!"[/b'] ;)

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Well i have got NGK BKR7E 's in at the minute i changed the vr6 ones for these as these where already in it. Dont want it to go ka booom lol!! they have not been gapped because i was told these just go straight in ( the bkr7e) ?? would it be worth forking out for a scan?

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Got FI? Need colder plugs? Cold Range Spark Plug Guide

Recently, I encountered some difficulty with my FI application (Streetwerke GT380) where the car would misfire periodically, when cold, when warm, at idle, under boost... it was VERY frustrating. I had all manner of tests done to try and identify mechanical problems including compression and leak-down. All were negative (thankfully). In the end it turned out to be my spark plug gap! Now the gap was already set to a relatively tight .028" from Streetwerke but upon recommendation from another shop that deals with FI applications I had them tightened to .025" and BAM! misfire gone. During my struggles, I began to research spark plugs in the hopes that perhaps I could find something better (or different) than what was included with my GT380 kit. In the end, the plugs provided with the kit run quite well, they just needed the proper gap for my higher than average compression.

I won't say exactly which plugs are provided with the Streetwerke kit (as I've been asked not to) but I will say they're one of the plugs on the list to follow. This list was compiled by me during my research into colder range plugs that should work well for a force inducted VR6. The criteria are fitment (obviously), style (iridium style ONLY!), and heat range.

DISCLAIMER: I'm not a mechanic! I'm not a tuner! I have simply been researching plugs and have compiled a list of plugs that *SHOULD* offer better performance than OEM for FI applications. Use of any of this information is AT YOUR OWN RISK!

Ok, now that that's out of the way, a quick primer on plug design:

What: Plugs create a spark using the high voltage burst generated by your coilpacks. This spark in turn emits heat, this heat in turn ignites the air-fuel mixture in your combustion chamber (cylinder). A spark plug's job is twofold: Ignite the mixture and carry away a portion of the heat generated in the cylinder.

Variables: Plug designs vary quite a bit in design from resistor to non-resistor, thickness, shape, and material of the electrode as well as the ground. Physical construction and layout can determine various properties of how a plug dissipates heat (known as heat range). It is this property that is most important when dealing with FI applications, especially those that run on stock compression ratios (EIP Stg 1, Streetwerke GT380, VF STG 1 and 2).

GAP: You'll find a lot of warnings on the subject of gapping Iridium plugs. Most go something like this: "DON'T GAP IRIDIUM PLUGS!" Turns out that as long as you don't leverage off of the electrode when you gap your plugs you shouldn't have any problems gapping them. The thinner electrode makes it easy to destroy your plug if you're not careful or use the electrode for leverage. If in doubt, find someone that knows what they're doing!

I have specifically narrowed my search criteria to plugs of the "Iridium" design (Iridium electrode at .6mm or .4mm thickness) in ranges that are colder (more heat dissipation) than OEM stock plugs. The two manufacturers of "iridium-style" plugs are: NGK (OEM) and Denso. NGK plugs contain a .6mm electrode while Denso uses a narrower .4mm

Heat range indicators (usually present in the model # of the plug) are also different between manufacturers. Here is the conversion:

NGK-DENSO

8===24

9===27

10==29

11==34

Stock plugs = NGK 7 (DENSO 22)

Ok, here's the list:

NON-RACE (Premium Class)

Manufacturer____Product Name____Part #

NGK_____________Iridium plug____KR8AI

NGK_____________IX iridium______DCPR8EIX

NGK_____________IX iridium______DCPR9EIX

Denso___________Iridium plug____IXU24

Denso___________Iridium plug____IXU27

These are the top of the range for non-race plugs with the NGK DCPR9EIX and Denso IXU27 at the coldest (2 steps colder than stock). The other three are 1 step colder than stock. Cost of these plugs is in the $7-15/plug range. 9's are recommended for FI into Stock Compression while 8's would probably work well on lowered compression applications.

RACE (Ultimate/Racing Class)

Manufacturer____Product Name____Part #

Denso___________Iridium Racing__IXU01-24

Denso___________Iridium Racing__IXU01-27

Denso___________Iridium Racing__IXU01-31

Denso___________Iridium Racing__IXU01-34

These are meant for racing and are even colder than the non-race plugs. Typically these would be considered overkill on any application short of 1.5-2 bar boost. NGK offers race plugs but they're platinum electrodes and therefore larger in diameter (~1.1mm) so I don't list them here. These race plugs are "resistor" types (likely required by our ignition systems) and will fit our engines. They are MUCH more expensive at ~$35/plug. Unless you're doing some serious engine building/race applications they're really not applicable.

If you're interested in doing your own research, our VR6 engines take a 12mm thread, 19mm (3/4") reach, 16mm (5/8") hex, should contain a resistor, and preferably be of the iridium type (.4-.6mm electrode) .025-.032" should be considered the range of gap.

Good luck and happy tuning! Hope this help. ;)

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Ehy cant you say the recommended one that you have used? I think going off this i will go for the NGK KR8AI as mine has lowered compression. What do you guys think?

and does anyone else have any recommendations to my problem?

I have NGK BKR7E would these be ok if i gapped them down to 0.025''???

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Ehy cant you say the recommended one that you have used? I think going off this i will go for the NGK KR8AI as mine has lowered compression. What do you guys think?

and does anyone else have any recommendations to my problem?

I have NGK BKR7E would these be ok if i gapped them down to 0.025''???

This is one of the most common spark plugs that the VR6t owner use here in the states " NGK_____________IX iridium______DCPR8EIX "

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Use either audi tt or s4 plugs for FI vr's. I wil get my cousin SPARKZ to expand on ths tomorrow' date=' but that is what im using on my charged vr6.

[/quote']

Thanks spindat dub, iv got ngk bkr7e spark plugs in at the minute standard gap, i think these are off an audi. do they need gapping down?

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So let me get this right....you took you car for a service and before hand it was running fine? you pay your money leave and the car is still fine or developed this fault? who serviced your car? are they specialists or joe blogs?,what plugs did they fit? did they fit plugs? ask them what they changed and part numbers....

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it was my mate he did it for free. Cant really blame him because before the service the car wouldnt start without abit of throttle and when it came to getting the plugs out they wernt vr6 plugs so i thought someone had put the wrong plugs in with it not starting without revs. Big mistake! Found out what the plugs where that was in it and put these in but still have the problem with it running shit!

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its obd1.

Right people i gapped the plugs down to 0.025'' and... its worked!!! :D car is running like it did when i got it which is good.

but ... the top right plug and the bottom right plug where black, the other 4 where fine :s any ideas?

btw thanks people for the advice

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