D16vGTi 1 Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 Hi guys,I'm looking to do a long slow rebuild of a bare 2.9 block. It is destined for a turbo application but I want to do all the work (or as much as possible) myself as I find thats the best way to learn (I have learnt loads already from converting my mk2 to VR6). Anyway, I am after a comprehensive list of parts that are required for rebuilding a bare block.....I don't need specifics such as JE pistons just pistons will do. Oh and do you guys think its worth rebuilding with uprated parts or go with new standard parts?Cheers allDan Link to post Share on other sites
Gadget-Master 2 Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 This site might be of use:http://www.vagcat.com/ Link to post Share on other sites
Phat VR6 3 Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 how much money have you got lol Link to post Share on other sites
D16vGTi 1 Posted March 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 I just want to know the parts required, not specific parts so I know I'll need the crank, con rods, pistons and oil seals, rod bolts, oil pick up and pump, sump and gasket...what else?Cheers Link to post Share on other sites
D16vGTi 1 Posted March 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 Everything is going to be new as its going to be a long gradual build as I want to take my time and get everything spot on so money isn't really an object Link to post Share on other sites
cabrioman 6 Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 rite ... block, crank, rods, pistons, piston rings, bearings for crank and rods, thrust bearings, bolts for crank and rods, front and rear crank seals, alloy plate on front of block, oil pump, oil pump pick up drive rod, water pump, sump, sump seal, exciter ring for crank shaft positon sensor, crank position sensor, oil filter housing, oil cooler, crank coolant pipe, crank pipse seals, lower chain and guides, lower chain cover,as iit goin to have a turbo bolted on it i would use all uprated parts make it bomb prof ie ARP hard wear kit, up rated low compression pistons, race bearings etc etc hope this helps ... tony Link to post Share on other sites
D16vGTi 1 Posted March 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 Thats just what I was after Tony, thanks so much for that.Think I will go for uprated parts.....how much power is the standard crank good for? can you even buy uprated ones? Link to post Share on other sites
cabrioman 6 Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 not a far as i know u can get them re ground and balalnced but from wot ive heard and read it aint worh it for the money .... as for how much power a standard crank can take as far i know no one on here is using an uprated one and there are a few on here running 500 bhp plus Link to post Share on other sites
Phat VR6 3 Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 Thats just what I was after Tony' date=' thanks so much for that.Think I will go for uprated parts.....how much power is the standard crank good for? can you even buy uprated ones?[/quote']why don't you go R32 lump? Buy the sounds of it your going to end up spending £5k+ on rebuilding a VR6 lump which at very best your going to get around 500 bhp (head don't flow very well)In all honesty you could just stick a head spacer, new rings and apr bolts all round on a reasonably healthy 90,000 mile engine and push 350/ 400bhp no problem Have you just got a block on its own with no internals? pick up a complete engine off eBay for £250 nowadays Just saying that if you've got some money to spends its probably best spending it on a 24v lump and building that up Link to post Share on other sites
D16vGTi 1 Posted March 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 I hear what you are saying bodge, but the idea is for me to gain a better knowledge of the vr engine by rebuilding one to use in my car at some point in the future. I don't want the hassle of having to try and sort out any extra wiring and I don't want to pay £1800 for a pre-made R32 wiring loom for my mk2 (thats the price stealth sells them for apparently). So I thought rather than spend 4K on going R32 and spend 2 large lumps of money and end up with only 270bhp after a remap, I thought I could build my own engine, take some pride in that fact, and end up with something putting out much more power. I am currently looking into buying an OBD1 engine with 78K on it, do you reckon I should just forget about rebuilding it and go headspacer, arp bolts and new rings then??I just fancied rebuilding a vr6 engine tbh Link to post Share on other sites
Phat VR6 3 Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 totally understand mate and the other way of looking at is that your probably never going to want more than 450-500 anyway. so whats the point in R32 Its all to do with money and age. If you can afford to go all out then do it and you could push it hard if you wanted to.there must be hundreds of vrs out there with just head spacer and aprs and if you happy with 400bhp i can't see much point in going any further personally.and if it does go pop new engine off ebay for £200 and reuse your spacer and aprs... both ways you will learn your VR inside out.Its upto you tbf. how much power do you want from it? Link to post Share on other sites
rodney 17 Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 may i suggest the odb2 lump just because it doesn't have the dizzy... it should make your life simpler later..there are a couple of 4 guys as you can appreciate who have done it on here. If you are looking at bolt by bolt then we can direct you towards the motor sport crew.Obviously the Cabrio man, I think it was Gragsey and I know personally that Sparkz has a very high spec turbo lump good for silly numbers...hope it helps in some small waygood luck and please feel free to get a build thread on the go so you can tell us about your findings and your decisions. I will help others... I know I would be interested just for my own knowledge! Link to post Share on other sites
D16vGTi 1 Posted March 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 Well I've made a decision to just go down the head spacer and arp route, I just get carried away and like shiny things!!! :-d But doing the above will mean that I can spend all the money on the parts that count, and it will be up and running sooner so its win win really, and as you say should the engine go pop I can get a replacement with relative ease.I'm currently running approx. 200 once remapped but would just be happy to break the 300 mark to start with as I don't want to be buying new gearboxes left right and centre, plus its all going to be in a mk2 so even lighter than the mk3.Its good to talk ideas out, it normally ends up in a cheaper option for me when I do it! Link to post Share on other sites
rodney 17 Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 well may i add another thought to your pot. why turbo if thats all you're after??? supercharger is bolt on and you may not need the work on the engine! there are guys running very close to that on stage 2 chargers... Link to post Share on other sites
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