legvw 0 Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Yeah the expensive 1's are a bit complicated for my liking, and they have had a few problems with the reliability of them. Def post up a few bits about it when i get to it Link to post Share on other sites
gavinvr6 0 Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 u got some brains and some balls mate to make everything yourself. i wish i had the knowledge/skill to do that, fair play to ya Link to post Share on other sites
legvw 0 Posted April 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2009 While i was fitting the rear subframe, i put the prop in to mount that up. Getting it running right took a bit of time, but got there in the end!Had to raise the front of the engine so that the prop would run level.Gearbox with home-made bracket that clears the driveshaft. Link to post Share on other sites
legvw 0 Posted April 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2009 Thought i'd show you guys an girls what i've been workin on the past month or so.Fuel tank, which uses the original vr6 pump and senderTank and fuel pump/filter holderMounted in the car using anti-vibration mounts.Fuel filler cap,From inside,I'l get some better pictures at the weekend of it in, changed where the pump and filter are going. Moved them to underneath the fuel tank under the car. Link to post Share on other sites
twoscoops 0 Posted May 4, 2009 Report Share Posted May 4, 2009 Mate this is an amazing build so far. Fair play to you for building most of the parts yourself! Link to post Share on other sites
legvw 0 Posted May 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2009 Thanks for the enthusiasm and support! You can see why i didn't need that fuel flap part that i sent you Link to post Share on other sites
twoscoops 0 Posted May 4, 2009 Report Share Posted May 4, 2009 I was just thinking how proud I was at getting it fitted and fixed.....nothing compared to the work that you are doing mate!!! haha Link to post Share on other sites
legvw 0 Posted May 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 As promised, a few better pictures of fuel tank in car, pump and filter, and a few of my new brake lines, bias valve and battery cables.And i've made my own short shift by modifying the original gear selectors on top of the gearbox. I just drilled a new hole closer to the pivet point of the selector, cut the old pin off, then welded it back in its new hole. I did that on both of the selectors, and i tell ya thats some serious shifting power!!! I've also mounted some gauges in the center console, oil pressure and temp, boost pressure, and air/fuel gauge (WHICH IS NOW FOR SALE-OFFERS?). I used a piece of and old dashboard out of a mk3 gti i had, cut it to fit, drilled holes to suit the gauges, and tapered the sides of it so that ti would sit in the center console and point towards me! Link to post Share on other sites
Patvr6 0 Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 Amazing Link to post Share on other sites
legvw 0 Posted May 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 I came home today and found this little (well, not that little!) beauty on my door step!Mmmm, boooooost!!!! Link to post Share on other sites
Murph 0 Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 top notch mate, you're like a VR6 god or something ^o) And i thought repairing my coil pack and bending up all my brake pipes was technical ......Keep us informed mate! Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Nat 9 Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 All i can say is WOW!!! :) Link to post Share on other sites
matty.vrt 120 Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 Looking good what A/R have you gone for on your hot side. Link to post Share on other sites
legvw 0 Posted May 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 I went for a .84 a/r on a t4 flange, should give some good hp! Link to post Share on other sites
Phat VR6 3 Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 i still watching lol. what drive shaft / CV combo you using? Link to post Share on other sites
legvw 0 Posted May 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 Driveshafts; fronts- nsf= mk4 r32 driveshaft complete osf= mk4 r32 inner + outer cv's, shortened r32 shaft rear- nsr= mk4 r32 inner + outer cv's, mk2 modified syncro shaft osr= mk4 r32 inner + outer cv's, mk2 modified syncro shaft Cheers for the support, its good to know people out there that are interested!! Link to post Share on other sites
matty.vrt 120 Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 Tanks for the reply just shopping around for a turbo for my own project where abouts did you get yours from. Link to post Share on other sites
legvw 0 Posted May 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 Got mine from GT3 Turbo mate, quite reasonable price. Its a Garrett 60-1 .84 a/r hotside with t4 style divided flange. Can't afford a gt series, so that tub was the next best thing!!! Link to post Share on other sites
twoscoops 0 Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 just wondering if there had been anymore progress on the motor mate?? Link to post Share on other sites
john555 0 Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 hey mate iv just been looking through your build thread and noticed you have a spring linking your anti roll bar and subframe do you know what its for just im doing the same conversion but mine doesnt have any of this im not sure if its missing or just its never been there Link to post Share on other sites
legvw 0 Posted June 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 just wondering if there had been anymore progress on the motor mate??Not alot tbh, been working hard, and enjoying the sun too much!!! I get paid next week so hopefully start getting some bits an bobs in to make both my manifolds. Link to post Share on other sites
legvw 0 Posted June 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 hey mate iv just been looking through your build thread and noticed you have a spring linking your anti roll bar and subframe do you know what its for just im doing the same conversion but mine doesnt have any of this im not sure if its missing or just its never been there That is the standard brake bias valve, or load sensing valve thats used to control the rear brakes. I ditched mine as the mounting for it is cut out to fit the haldex diff in. I now use a Wilwood adjustable brake bias valve to control the rear brakes. So don't worry, its nothing worth having anyway!!! If you get stuck with anything give me a shout mate cause its the little bits an pieces that make this conversion work, like if you use the front hubs off an r32 (like me) then you have to add a 3mm spacer between the hub and bearing (on the front) to clear the hub carrier. Link to post Share on other sites
john555 0 Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 thats ok then and cheers mate ill probly bug u a million times before im done your bulid is already a massive help i was planning on just using the vr hubs are they no good? Link to post Share on other sites
legvw 0 Posted June 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Unless you want to get custom driveshafts made! The R32 c.v's have larger inner splines than the vr6 c.v's, so you can't mix n match - and the R32 c.v's use a large socket headed cap screw to do up the hub/bearing, unlike the vr6 which uses a nut. Link to post Share on other sites
john555 0 Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 gutter well thats another thing i need thenglad your doing this i think i would probly give up a million times before i got anywere near geting it all in with out help from people like you when you hope to have it up and running and what are you doing about a exhaust/manfold Link to post Share on other sites
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