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My VR6 turbo, Haldex 4wd. The end....


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Big head? He's a good bloke mate' date=' but yeah i'd definately go head to head with him, maybe 1 day! Firstly, gotta finish building the beast :-)

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he gave it the attitude when i heard him speak to some people,so i dont like him. but would love to see a vr beat his 1.8t

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Thanks for the support peeps!

Been a busy boy today. Painted underneath and inside the old boot space, re-fitted the petrol tank and fitted the tank breather, fitted the battery tray, ran all the wires for both fuel pumps/haldex, the switch for the haldex pump and 'p'-clipped battery cables. Just got to order 3 relays, 3 relay holders and wire it all in through a mini fuse box which i'l put next to the fuel tank.

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Thats about it for now, waiting on my suspension to turn up, which should be soon.

God this is killing me waiting to drive this machine!!

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kinda the lad who is gona be painting my car is gona come and give me a bit of a hand one weekend so shoud be done soon, as for the brace mine uses a cross bean which is bolted to the rear chassis legs so hold the diff up so i cant brace the diff that way, i mite brace the rear struts that way thou should help a cany bit

how you planin on having your haldex controller setup the diff on and off? or different power ratio settings

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The pump on the haldex is simply going to be ignition activated, with an additional dash switch so it can be switched off for motorways etc. Then all i've done is weld a bolt on the end of the stepper motor to control the flow of oil in the haldex diff. I don't know how well this will actually work yet, or if its oil tight yet, but it was easy and cheap enough! If it doesn't work, then i'l go to plan b!! I'l post a few pics up tonight mate

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As promised, a few pics of my haldex set-up, the first is of the side of the haldex control unit, and the bolt i've welded on the stepper motor

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And the switch i'm using (the 1 on the right) to switch the haldex pump on/off, which will activate a relay in the boot that switches the pump on/off

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Erm, if i left the prop on the front tranfer box, and switched the haldex pump off in the rear diff, then yes i can just run fwd. The haldex is at the rear, the transfer box is at the front. Thats why i wanted the switch, to switch off the rear diff for motorways, traffic etc. No need to disconnect the prop! Simples

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ah i see... sorry thought the controller was tranfer box end... so the prop will all ways be spinning. Im talking about if its been installed in a car which hasn't been converted to 4 wheel drive e.g no prop but keeping the transer box if wanting to go 4 wheel drive further down the line.

Guess it would be ok to leave the transer box on with the prop flange spinning away.. just make a cover plate or something

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yep doing things in stages.. first low boost set up.. then 02m fwd with the transfer box still attached. up the boost.

Then year or so down the line sort the rear end out for 4 wheel drive

What kind of 1/4 mile time you hopping on getting?

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Sounds like some steady progression into insanity mate! With 4wd i think you could go for as low as 11's, possibly lower depending on the set-up/driver etc. I've never been up ANY strip, so i'l probably stall the first time!!! :-) But what i've learnt throughout this project, is that anythings possible!

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slight thread hijack but if i break into the fusebox on the haldex fuse and put a switch inline to turn it to fwd (to heat the fronts up at santa p[od or stick it on a rr) would it do any harm? i assume not but dont wanna ruin a race spec controller or the diff/transfer box lol

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Because the relay will switch the power to the pump, so that the dash switch doesn't have alot of current running through it. Relays make switching power to high current devises safer, i.e haldex pump. Just think that the fuel pump, lights, windows, abs, ecu, etc are all operated via a switch switching a relay.

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yer id personaly run it through a relay to for saftey, but that would work fine asyoj can rollin road a r32 on a 2wd dyno by un pluggin the diff wires,

your controller setup looks good but will that lock the diff or will the bolt allow you to adjust the pressure just iv been told if i lock it completly it will skip when cornering ect

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Yeah the bolt can be turned if you undo the nut nearest the casing, and yeah heard about that too. I'l probably experiment with the setting a bit, but run it close the half power, so 25% going to the rear.

The bolt will turn and open/close the valve, then the inner nut just locks it off.

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Hey, hey, got me some bouncy bits yesterday!!! :-)

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Next step: Get paid an buy clutch and flywheel, finish exhaust manifold, and modify the start of my tunnel to except a 3" downpipe! All good fun :-)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been doing a few bits in the evenings this week. Fitted my oil feed line for my turbo, fitted my front goodridge r32 brake lines,and test fitted my manifold and turbo.

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Get paid monday so lots of bits to come next week! :-) Hopefully my clutch and flywheel, brake pads, most of the parts to build my exhaust and a smaller wastegate as the 50mm one i bought (its for sale now) just won't fit anywhere with my custom exhaust manifold!

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