tandino 1 Posted November 6, 2004 Report Share Posted November 6, 2004 As some of you might or might not know ive have increasing levels of chain rattle on my VR6 for some time.After getting quotes of around £500 for the job inc getting a new clutch i decided to investigate the top end of the engine for tensioner rail and tensioner guide rail wear.Id already bought a new guide rail as i know this is the piece that is the weak link in the chain so upon gaining access to the chain guide i was surprised to see it in mint condition with only minimal signs of wear - whilst it was all apart i replaced the guide rail anyway as its only two bolts to remove the old one....The upper tensioner rail was the same - no visible signs of wear at all.The noise i was getting was definately from the top end and there was alot of chain slack between the cam gears - i removed the old tensioner only to be shocked that it was binding up at the start of its travel - the chain tensioner has a pin inside the actual bolt - on later models this has spring tension to ensure there is tension on the chain before start up when oil pressure takes over - how long it had been like this i dont know.I free'd the tensioner off and replaced it and all seemed better - the engine was much quieter but there was still some evidence of chain noise.I ordered a new VAG tensioner this week and have just installed it this afternoon - i now have a quiet engine.My advice is to check your tensioners if you are getting any noise - you might save yourself some money 8) Pete. Link to post Share on other sites
ingham 5 Posted November 6, 2004 Report Share Posted November 6, 2004 but what about the lower one that you carnt get to without gearbox removal Link to post Share on other sites
tandino 1 Posted November 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2004 As mentioned in my post - the lower chain is not giving off any noise whatsoever so ill worry about that when the time comes - ie when i need to do my clutch Also as i said last weekend the upper tensioner bolt apart from the spring only uses oil pressure for tension - there is no ratchet adjuster inside 8) Pete. Link to post Share on other sites
tommy 0 Posted November 6, 2004 Report Share Posted November 6, 2004 Cheers for the info Pete. ...........my engine seem quiet at the mo but as ive just clocked 90k........ so i'm sure its something that will have to be addressed in the very near future [ Edited Sat Nov 06 2004, 09:56PM ] Link to post Share on other sites
acf8181 0 Posted November 7, 2004 Report Share Posted November 7, 2004 was the bolt tesnsioner...you lucky bugger! lolobd2's shouldn't have a wear issue on the runners as they have a single row top chain. did you have a look down as at the lower runners?i bet the bolt tensioner hadn't been bled when the last person took it out. Link to post Share on other sites
tandino 1 Posted November 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2004 From what i could make out the lowers looked in good nick....As for the tesioner being bled - i doubt its had beeen removed prior to me - it wasnt a case of it not having any oil in it - it had just got stuck in a compressed position Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 1,455 Posted November 7, 2004 Report Share Posted November 7, 2004 my chain noise is coming from the top only.... i'll check mine out, my lower bits are also looking to be fine, the tensioner bolt thing can go faulty, and i've seen a few instances of it doing so. Link to post Share on other sites
MarkGolf 6 Posted November 7, 2004 Report Share Posted November 7, 2004 Bolt tensioner being bled?How does that work? I know there is a little hole in it which i thought was a bit weird...I've only thought as far as that you have to just put it in and do it up till its tight.. This is if we're talking about the top bolt... Link to post Share on other sites
acf8181 0 Posted November 7, 2004 Report Share Posted November 7, 2004 its need bleeding if whilst removed the piston in the bolt moves out (cause its let air in)you stand it on its end, then you poke a very thin, but rigid, wire through the little hole (centre of a tv aerial cable is perfect for it) and fiddle around until you depress the little valve in there. then the piston can be pushed (very easily) in. its a right fiddly procedure and will piss you off very quickly, its very hard to find the valve...but the piston will go in with hardly no pressure at all once you have.phatvr6 does it with the bolt in a cup of oil i believe. Link to post Share on other sites
MarkGolf 6 Posted November 7, 2004 Report Share Posted November 7, 2004 Do brand new ones need this doing? Link to post Share on other sites
acf8181 0 Posted November 7, 2004 Report Share Posted November 7, 2004 nopebut as always crank the engine a few times without the fuel pump fuse in to get the oil circulating. Link to post Share on other sites
doxer79 0 Posted November 10, 2004 Report Share Posted November 10, 2004 the part you are on about is it the part number 021145299c?are the belt / chain s the same?mine is sounding a bit noisey my local garage said its the belt tensioner? Link to post Share on other sites
acf8181 0 Posted November 10, 2004 Report Share Posted November 10, 2004 the part no i'm on about is 021 109 507A (or replace A for a B if chassis 217 001 on)its not a given that that part is whats causing the excessive rattle, it could be any one of the runners (theres 4 or 5 of them). only way to know is to have the inlet/cam cover/top timing chain cover off to have a look) the only parts that can be replaced without the gearbox coming out is that one tensioner 'bolt' and the upper most runner. Link to post Share on other sites
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