UnitedMotorsport 55 Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 The AUE has a different head to the BDE.The mechanical difference in the cam control is: different cams, the timing chain setup, and the actuators. Link to post Share on other sites
FishWick 21 Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 I've read about Dave Walker finding big gains on 24V Ts by increasing overlap (via the inlet cam) in the midrange, so on the face of it the AUE seems too basic for that?Although basic is good for reliability in my experience. Link to post Share on other sites
UnitedMotorsport 55 Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 The AUE is more basic than the BDE. The cam control on the AUE is the same method as used on the 20v engines, The BDE cam timing is variable, ie lets say that all the way advanced is 0 and all the way retarded is 10, with this engine you can set the cam timing to be anywhere from 0 to 10. With the AUE the control is either 0 or 10. Link to post Share on other sites
FishWick 21 Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 Thanks for the info, very helpful indeed.The reason I'm asking these questions is because the 24V engine I've got is the AUE (I think, it's an early coilpack one) and I'm still debating whether or not to stick with it or get something better. I thought the "On/off" 'VVT' on 1.8Ts was purely to get loads of air through the head during warm up to reduce emissions? Sounds like the AUE is similar. And the VVT on the R32 / BDE is more for boosting midrange peformance? Link to post Share on other sites
Phat VR6 3 Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 sticking my neck out a bit here but why do you want to go 24v? I know the head flows a lot better but whats your end goal and what do you want from it.Why not just add rods and 17-20psi?i recon you just want something else to play with Link to post Share on other sites
Eat this 2 Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 iv driven 2 4 mos 1 with the early engine and 1 with the later engine and noticed no difference in performance Link to post Share on other sites
FishWick 21 Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 sticking my neck out a bit here but why do you want to go 24v? I know the head flows a lot better but whats your end goal and what do you want from it.Why not just add rods and 17-20psi?i recon you just want something else to play with The 24V I picked up cheap and is a backup engine in case the 12V blows / wears out. But I think you're right, I'm starting to question the need for it now. The 12V is working nicely so I'm probably trying to fix something that isn't broken :-)I know if I get rid of the 24V, the good omen of having a spare engine will go with it and the 12V will die the next day! Sods law.The 24V head is the main reason for wanting to go that route. Shame it doesn't bolt onto the 12V block.It flows more and the injectors are MUCH better placed aswell. It just runs smoother and sweeter too. Link to post Share on other sites
sharky_70 0 Posted October 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2009 well i was looking into rebuilding a 12v and figured it would cost the same if not less to get a low miler 24v which would be remappable and run nicerthen just thought 'well what if...' just ideasalso i think itsusefull to have a thread for this topic, just in case (h) Link to post Share on other sites
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