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Rods and pistons..


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Good point raised about bore walls' date=' which is why my 24V turbo lump is staying 81mm, but I'm looking at using an R32 crank with modded pistons to make a true 3.0 24V, which will be strong for boost. If that's possible that is. It's still in the early research stage at the moment.

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Kev the R32 crank isn't forged. Or that might be the mk5 32 crank. Apparently there the weak point of the R32 engine and theres a fair few letting go at around the 500 bhp mark.

I still want to go turbo but starting to think about saving the money and getting a 911 993 in the next few years.

What really surprises me is that a 1997 porsche is air cooled :S how can they run turbos and 500+++ and be air cooled, and why in a way are they soooo far behind, most 97 cars are water cooled ? I thought it would make they really unreliable but apparently not.

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' date=' I've limited it to 7000, with a soft cut at 6800 (read, massive cloud of black smoke, LOL!). It cools the exhaust valves though :-)

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Is a soft limiter over fueling to cut the power? So is the hard limiter is cutting the fuel off all together?

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£995 for a GT35 is a great price. Those rip off merchants Owen Developments will sting you about £1300 for one of them.

Is that place these people? - http://www.gt3turbo.com/Merchant/home.php

If so, glad they're good. I thought it was too good to be true someone in Essex selling ATP's catalogue, hurrah!!!

Bodge, soft cut = ignition only and Hard cut = fuel and ignition.

It's amazing how easily and quickly a VRT can spin it's rev counter off the end of the scale, so you've got to reign that bad boy in :-)

993 turbos have massive cooling fans and much bigger fins on the heads mate. They also ran rich, which helps with cooling. I don't know how reliable the turbo was, but cracked heads were quite common on the norm asp ones and there was an issue with spark plug / combustion chamber location on some engines which forced heavy side loads onto the piston, which accelerated wear.

Tell take signs were oil smoke when starting up.

Porsche were never going to get that engine through EU4 emissions, so it was canned and replaced with the water cooled motors we now know and love / hate.

And yes, I was tempted by one myself, so did some research :-)

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Bodge' date=' what u still doing up at 2.30 am. hard core vr6`er :)

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lol i dunno dude its just what time i get in. Not so clever in the morning though |-)

Cheers kev, new you would no the anwsers

ummm VR6 T or 993, evo 8, bwm m3, scooby wrx sti, audi RS4???? *-)

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With this C/R lark, the choices I have are 10:5:1 and 9:1... That pretty much means not alot to me in terms of what is best.. To match what some of you have listed, I assume I would still need some form or spacer gasket?

Can someone point me in the right direction pleasee (Looking to order asap!)

Thanks

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Whats the drivability like of an 8.5:1 engine?

What would the difference between that and a 9:1 be?

Planning on getting the pistons and rods ordered this week so I can get a piston and my block to my borer.. Actually, got to remove that damn crank pulley bolt first!! The scaffolding poles aren't working this time around!lol

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Stick the block in the boot and take it down to a tyre/exhaust place and get them to spin it off with their air-gun :-)

Driven 10:1, 9:1 and 8.5.1 forced induction VR6s and they all feel the same. People think dropping to 8.5:1 completely ruins the throttle response and low end torque, but it doesn't. Well, it does a little bit, but only something like 10lb-ft around 1500rpm and a little drop around 3000rpm, but you don't really notice it that much due to the tidal wave of torque that happens on boost!

Good mapping will make the engine feel good everywhere, so it's not a problem.

If you're turbo and 10:1 or 9:1, you have very little protection against accidental or deliberate over boosting. Knock control can only do so much and only react so fast. It's best to have some mechanical protection from a safe compression :-)

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Stick the block in the boot and take it down to a tyre/exhaust place and get them to spin it off with their air-gun :-)

we had a big compressor at my pals and it didnt touch it, i thought it would never come free, but 4 people jumping up n down for 20 mins on 5ft scaffold bars finally got it free. its a pig of a job ,not something you want to do every day :)

if you go for 8.5;1 then your covered for the future, when 300hp isnt enough anymore and you want more power , which, trust me will happen. once you have felt a vr on boost you will allways want to have more and it will be all done ready for more if you go the 8.5;1 route.

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The rods or pistons (or both) will be chinese replicas at that price.

Not necessarily a bad thing' date=' but if you're paying for a brand name you expect it to be genuine.

Walbro went through a bad time with chinese copies of their pumps failing. They were EXACT copies, you could not tell the difference..... except where it mattered most.

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I work at Alamo and we don't sell China replicas. That auction is for genuine Eagle and Wiseco parts. When you have been in the business for as long as we have, you get the deepest deals from manufacturers.

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woosner forged turbo pistons can be found at pec.com which is in Essex' date='and only take 2 days to ship from germany,a good price too and does a rod n pistons deal. i wouldnt go for that set off ebay myself,pretty much what Kev said bout price. also having an english fella to talk to is helpfull and not too far to collect in person.

try and keep as close to the 81mm standard bore as the more your enlarge, the more you weaken the side walls of the cylinders. 8.5-1 compression pistons are what i use (standard bore). no spacer gasket anymore as done it the right way and used low comp pistons and not a spacer, at 1.3 bar (18.8 psi) it makes over 400 hp and well over 400 ft of torque so more than you need or can use, when you finish your turbo project ,make sure your friendly with your local tyre man :)

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We have a UK distributor we use. Momentim Motorsports in N. Ireland. So if you want someone local, that is also available.

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I did some research into Alamo autosport or whatever they are called and can't find anything bad about them apart from an engine rebuild taking 2 months rather than 1..

I've shot a mail to eagle and wiseco to see what feedback I can get from them about the ebay sale. It does seem too good to be true but the money saved will nearly pay for the parts on my BVH..

If not' date=' I will be going to pec.com...

I'm goign to go for 82mm pistons, not sure what compression I need though..I'm leaning toward a GT30 at the mo but i could stil sway for a rotrex [/quote']

Our tuner/engine builder flies all over the world to work on cars, so it can cause unforeseen delays sometimes.

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Going to go with the kit from Alamo, a freiend is going to be out there so waiting to see if he can bring it all back..

While Im getting all my questions seen to in here, I'm wonidering what is the best exhaust manifold to go for?

I found an ATP one

IMG_0487.jpg I've seen others with this, wil it clear the bulkhead and brake system?

Also, this turbo

Garret GT32 Journal Bearing series

External wastegate.

73 Trim, .78 A/R wheel.

Comes with T3 style divided inlet flange.

6 bolt exhuast outlet

I've never seen anyone mention the 32, is this a journal bearing as opposed to a roller bearing? What kinda power can these push or should I stick with a 3071?

cheers

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I've seen others with this' date=' wil it clear the bulkhead and brake system? [/quote']

Have you actually looked at the DIY turbo guide? LOL! It quite clearly shows an ATP manifold clearing the brakes and bulkhead with room to spare ;-) The only bit of 'fabrication' work you have to do is move the fluid resevoir over to the passenger side, but that is a peice of p1ss.

You can also use the SPA turbo manifold which C2 and Strictlydubs sell, but make sure it's a genuine one. There are some copied ones out there which are absolute garbage. Easily spotted by the ground off branding.

I would say the best made manifold is the Kinetics one, but it's not the best for RHD cars and the wastegate outlet is not in the best place either. Both that and the SPA manifold will allow you to use the standard inlet manifold. The ATP one makes that a lot harder. For easy turbo maintenance after fitment, the ATP is the best for that by miles.

Garret GT32 Journal Bearing series

External wastegate.

73 Trim' date=' .78 A/R wheel.

Comes with T3 style divided inlet flange.

6 bolt exhuast outlet

I've never seen anyone mention the 32, is this a journal bearing as opposed to a roller bearing? What kinda power can these push or should I stick with a 3071?

cheers

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Not being funny mate but it says "GT32 Journal Bearing series" in the text! :-)

Divided inlet flange is pointless without a divided manifold to go with it and the 6 bolt outlet is not very nice.

Of those two I would take the GT3071R with a 0.82 back housing and 3" V band outlet.

GTxxxx'R' = ball bearing. No 'R', no balls :-)

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are they specific 12v vr6 forged turbo pistons ? what power are they rated to ? what sort of waranty ?

Ireland to uk shipping is not cheap or local .

are you going to offer vr6oc members a special deal ?

Yes, they are for the 12v, Wiseco doesn't currently have pistons for the 24v. We have a VR6 that is making just under 800WHP. It ran 208mph in the Texas Mile last month.

We are not site sponsors, and special pricing is normally against a forum's policies, since it would be considered advertising.

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