Engine problem, white smoke and mayo, please help

[ChrisDK 0]

Hi all

I'm new to this forum and have a big question to all your brains.

Just before christmas, my block went down due to a crack (don't ask why)

I got hold of a new block, had the head welded due to corrosion, got it shimmed, lapped valves, changed valve seals, installed new chain set, head gasket, bolts ect. everything by the book.

I got the engine mocked in to my Sharan, big job though. got it started up, it ran fine, smoked a bit of white smoke from the exhaust, probably water in the cat, let it idle for some time, everything looked fine, then i pulled the oil filler cap and noticd mayo, crap, there must be a crack in the head, why didn't i preassure test it !!!!.

Got hold of another head from Germany (not that common around here), i had that head preassure tested (learning by mistake) lapped the valves had it prof checked for straightness and it came out very fine, couldn't get a 0,10 feeler blade in anywhere, changed the head yesterday, new gasket and bolts,, touqued it down according to the specs i could find, 40NM, 60NM, 90 degrees, 90 degrees, with beaten up hands i fired it up, happy to be there.

I was pretty amaced when i found the problem to be the same, white smoke and mayo, WTF is going on here, any ideas, it must be block related, right, can it be two things causing this, can the mayo be caused by a defective oil cooler and the smoke form water in the cat ?

Except of that the engine is ideling wery smooth and revs very fine, it seems as i have been getting some of the lost horses back.

Please advise, any help would me much appreciated.

Christian

[CALICO 130]

did you change your oil

water in the cat will not put mayo in your engine

engine will need thorugh flush to get rid of mayo is it down on power might just need to be used then flushed to clear it all out good luck mate

[ChrisDK 0]

Yes sir, i did change my oil, but not the filter, being i want to change the oil again very soon, so i thought there was no reason to change filter now.

I know water in the cat won't make mayo, but it will make white smoke, right, but for how long, ive decided to drive the car and see if it will burn water out of the cat.

Christian

[CALICO 130]

should also help to clear water from the filter

but will probably still need flushinh through new oil and filter

did you use new headbolts as they are stretch bolts

[ChrisDK 0]

Yes, new bolts and all, any recommendations on what to flush with ?.

197bhp, sounds fun

[CALICO 130]

engine oil flush empty half your oill out top up with oil flush then run for 30 minutes or so then drain change filter and oil should do the trick

197 bhp standard apart from BMC CDA air filter sharah's are lower bhp standard 150 ish i beleive if you have fitted golf head or at least cams then you should just need a remap to get the power up to golf levlel

[ChrisDK 0]

No Sharan is 174HP as standard, T4 is 140 IIRC, just went for a longer drive, suddently the white smoke stopped, i pulled over just to check on coolant, it's all there !!!!!......

It do however have some blueish smoke, rings?, valve steam seals? dunno, just like this car to run for now, to cold not to have a car.

I did put the head on in a un heated area, can that cause a problem, can the problem be that i have a warped block, well i decided to try to re touge the head bolts around cyl #1 it is where the oil feed is and i can access them without taking anything apart, the bolt next to spark plug on cyl #1 feels like it will rotate for ever when it gets to 90NM ??..., did i find the problem?

[rodney 17]

okay so yes you must flush the system and change all filtes and water etc. this is the only way to remove the mayo...

very hard to say if your head is warped or not..

Personally I always take a very very very small skim when I have changed the heads as it is always possible it has warped slightly..

it is possible also to warp the head if the equence is not correct also when you re-assemble.

You seem to know what you are doing so if you could just confirm did you do one nut at a time or did you do all at the same time a little bit at a time?

Finally there is the possibility of an old trick... if there is a very very very small warp that you fit either the steel spacer or two gaskets as this can then pick up the slight gap...

It is NOT a long term fix... it just lets you know if that is the area...

blue smoke you are correct rings or valves. most of the time.. if the blue smoke is on acceleration then it is valves.. if it is on over run then it is rings.. But as all engines are special. this does not always work.... so only use it as an idea but expect to look at both..

finally yes that is not normal on your cylinder bolt. remove and check, it could be the problem for everything...

Good luck and let us know how you get on

Cheers

[ChrisDK 0]

RCF

Yes i will flush it, no doubt.

I went to the machine shop to have it skimmed, buit the machine was broken down, i talked to the guy working there about having it send out, he did check it out with those prof tools and couldnt even get a 0.10 millimeter feeler gauge in, so i assume weru strong that the head is fine, but what about the block, any experience in a warped block, it is very hard for me to believe it could be warped, if it have been a inline 6 i coulds question it more.

I touqued the bolds down according to a "how to" i found online, started with the bolt in the middel, then the one above, then the one below the first ect,, touqued down with 40NM, started all over again with 60NM, then agani with 90 degrees, and once more with 90 degrees, is there another way around to do this ?, what is the maximum touqe that it should be bolted down with ?

The fun thing is that the smoke isn't all that bad anymore, a freind of mine is sure it is coolant, i think it is more blueish and we discuss the smell 8-| wise guys

I will try to get hold of a tool to add compressed air in to the cylinders while the piston is at TDC, that should confirm any leak, i just like to know if there is any common issues, with these engines.

That specefic bolt is the one in the upper left corner, just next to cyl #1, either the bolt can be defectiv, the threated hole in the block can be worn or can it really be that the head is coming down ? remember i tried to do it with a warm engine.

I would very much like to get touque specs for these engines, do any here have them, i will then tru to re touqe the head whole it is hot, as hot as it can be when i get to un bolt all intake stuff ect.

How do i attach photos or do i have toupload them to a web album

Chr

[J5KE F 0]

Hi mate, I'm sure there is tech specs available in the premium members section, I'm not a techy but from what ur describing it does sound like head or gasket..?

[ChrisDK 0]

The premium members section, not a place i hang around.

I have another question, witch one of the sensors is for the water temperatuire gauge, what color, my guage have stopped working, i need to get that fixed.

[ChrisDK 0]

while we are at it, can anyone tell me witch one is the water temp sender , the one for the water temp gauge, color please.

[RIX 0]

det er den blå så vidt jeg husker det er en doppelt der er kun en doppelt.og du skal ikke begynde at efter spænde en bolt det løb er kørt.hvor bor du kbh aalborg???

http://www.clubgolfdanmark.dk/profile.php?lookup=1453

du skriver bare til ham her norn han er prof. vr6 mand

VH:

[ChrisDK 0]

Hej RIX

Blå siger du, OK jeg prøver at teste om der kommer udslag ved at koble forbi den.

Når du siger løbet er kørt med topbolten, hvad mener du så, jeg har ellers rimeligt godt kendskab til motorer, bare ikke VR6, og det her skidt driller, men det positive er at den hvide røg har fortaget sig en del, måske det er fra udstødningen / katten.

Bor i Kbh. nærmere Kastrup, hvad med dig.

Sorry guys for the veard language.

[RIX 0]

århus det jeg mener er at har du spændt kan du godt glemme at spænde igen.

[AJmk2 2]

I had mayo in my oilcap and was just because my thermostat was gone and car was always running well below operating temperature.