how difficult is it making a custom loom for vr6 - stand alone

[lowvr 0]

possibly going down the stand alone route (probably omex 710)

how bad is it really making one of these loom

- car will be mk3 vr6, ob2 spec with short runner + turbo

i appreciate that it is a bit specific but just wanted general info from people that have attmped this.

Any clues/diagram/pictures to help would be good

[AJmk2 2]

When i installed my standalone I just used the standard loom and cut out what I didnt need. Id imagine making a new loom for scratch wouldnt be technically hard but would take a lot of time planning to make sure you have all the right lengths and gauges of wire.

[lowvr 0]

When i installed my standalone I just used the standard loom and cut out what I didnt need. Id imagine making a new loom for scratch wouldnt be technically hard but would take a lot of time planning to make sure you have all the right lengths and gauges of wire.

i don't suppose you took any pics along the way? or have any references that would help me out

i'm planning on doing a bit of a wire tuck so (nothing too anal, just to hide the majority/bulk of the lot.) so i will need to extend the cables anyways.

But somehow (not sure yet exactly how) i would like to utilise the original quick release connectors incase the engine needs to be pulled in and out

[FishWick 21]

Yes I built my own loom for my DTA S80 and it's really not that bad. I wasn't going to pay £1000 for an unterminated loom when it's something I could do myself.

I could go on for hours about it as it can get very involved, but I'll try and summarise it.....

1) Buy a heat gun

2) Buy a good soldering iron, something like this - http://www.jpgelectronics.com/products.asp?partno=Y061

3) Buy some good solder - http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Fasteners-Production-Equipment/Soldering-Equipment/Solder-Fluxes/Autosol-bit-saving-flux-cored-solder/61581/kw/85-6242?source=googleps&utm_source=googleps

4) Use the best quality sleeving you can afford. I use Raychem HFT5000, which is specially made for vehicle looms and is abrasion and chaff resistant - http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp;jsessionid=2RH454OEEHGFKCQLCIPZLTQ?N=411&Ntk=gensearch_003&Ntt=heat+shrink+hft5000&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&suggestions=false&ref=globalsearch&_requestid=514631

5) Crank and cam sensor cable. Needs to be shielded twisted pair and the cam sensor needs a 12V supply, not the more common 5V. Your ECU supplier can provide free lengths of good cable.

6) Thinwall cabling of many different colours and note down which wire does what for future reference - http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/70

0.5mm for sensors, 1mm for ECU power and grounds and 2mm for main battery connections etc, but use common sense on the Amp ratings. It also depends on the ECU pin type, because you might not physically fit 1mm cable into the pins. You need to check into that first.

7) Crimp tool specific to your ECU pins. Again, ask that first. The AMP tool for my SuperSeal connectors was a lot of money, so I soldered mine instead.

8) Plugs and pins for injectors and sensors are available from most auto electric suppliers.

9) Take your time and pay attention to where you lay the cables, avoiding areas of constant flexing and run the risk of extreme vibration and rubbing etc.

If you go with the OMEX, make sure it's an ECU that has good local support and a good community because you sure as hell won't get any mapping help from any tuners unless you pay them. A base map from a good community is essential to get you started. I have an excellent daily VRT map, running the stock VR6 idle valve, all stock sensors and it runs better than any chip tune I've tried, a LOT better.

[lowvr 0]

Kev I won't quoting your above post but thank you.

A wealth of knowledge in the post above and written in a logcial order that makes it easy (or easier is better word) to follow. I think its the route i will go down and although I'm still a long way off this stage i can what's involved i feel its something that just needs a bit of patience to get right.

With my plans on how i want the car to run i think stand alone is going to be the only real option. In the long run i think it will work out more cost effective too.