donpulsar 0 Posted September 15, 2010 Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 Hi guys,Found these on ebay today :Inlet ManifoldStrokerCan anyone say if the manifold would be any good (yes mine is OBD2 so would need an adapter to fit my TB to it)...& would I need any other bits to go with that stroker crank (am I correct in saying the spacer plate is to lower compression if i was turbo'ing).Any help appreciated! :-) Link to post Share on other sites
donpulsar 0 Posted September 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 Sorry - think I put this in the wrong place! Link to post Share on other sites
donpulsar 0 Posted September 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 Sorry - think I put this in the wrong place! Link to post Share on other sites
FishWick 21 Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 The intake is basically just a cheap copy of Schrick's upper section and won't gain you much.The spacer plate with the stroker crank is to account for the extra 5mm of stroke, so lifts the head accordingly, although it doesn't tell you how thick it is or what the compression ratio will be with it.Personally I'd do it properly with 5mm shorter conrods, but that can get a tad expensive! That ABT crank was a rare old beast back in the day. If you can get it for a song, go for it, otherwise you'd be better off just using an R32 crank from a scrapper engine. Link to post Share on other sites
donpulsar 0 Posted September 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 Thanks for the info, really appreciate the insight. Think I'll give that manifold a miss! That stroker crank is cheap (at the mo), but it says nothing about being mechanically ok - it could easily be scrap, or easily be a bargain! I guess if that 5mm plate lowers compression by too much then it'd only be worth using it if i was turbo'ing? (Will try and track down a mathematical formula to calculate that, & have a look on Google!)I'd read somewhere about using an R32 crank to increase capacity - do you know how straightforward that is - i.e could you just swap cranks or is there more to it than that?Thanks again,Steve. Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 custom pistons with a few mm higher pin location Link to post Share on other sites
FishWick 21 Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 I know of someone who used the ABT crank and it needed a spacer aswell as shaved pistons, and even then the compression was a shade over 10:1 if I remember.As Lukey says, a combination of shaved pistons with a bigger bowl (12V VR6 has a flat head) and offset wrist pins should set you up for boost with that crank.Same process is required for the R32 crank. As far as I know, the 12 and 24V big end and main journals are the same, so will interchange, it's just the stroke (in the case of the 3.2) that differs. Something to bear in mind if you're going boost is the stroker crank will limit the revs. It's more for torque than power.If you're thinking of going naturally aspirated, tbh you'd be better off with an R32 engine as it's impossible to get more than 250hp out of a nasp 12V with sensible money. Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted September 17, 2010 Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 if you google r32 crank in a 12v the first result gives you some good info and also a link to a very old vortex topic regarding this, the pics still work too, which shows you the overlap stock pistons have out the top of the block Link to post Share on other sites
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