Afondo 0 Posted September 26, 2010 Report Share Posted September 26, 2010 I guess this is a simple question, if you know the answer. I dont, thats why Im asking!I have been doing my research reading through build threads both here and on the vortex and have read Mr Bells bible but I do still have questions, so...I have a rebuilt OBD2 engine thats done near 9k over the pasty year. Block, head, all seals, pipes, pumps, radiator, chains, guides, all the sensors, engine & gearbox mounts, forged pistons and loads more. I really dont want to go to the expense of doing it all again so want to do this right!!I want a good setup and know what its going to set me back but dont want to go crazy.I would like to build a setup based on the following requirements:No head spacer or low comp pistonsI dont want to open the engine up again. I currently have Victor R standard headgasket and head BOLTS and would like to keep it that way!!Original gearbox, fully rebuilt with a longer 5th gear is fine but no LSD etc.I would prefer to use the OEM clutch (also replaced when engine rebuilt) but will change if essentialThe car is a daily driver and I would like to keep it that way. I want as much power as I can get without risk of damaging things. Is 300 hp at the wheels reasonable or am I living in fairy land?What turbo spec should I pick? I want something that isnt going to tear the gearbox to shreds. I was thinking of something that spooled up at about 3000 rpm. Is that a good/bad idea?Would I be better of with a BOV that dumps to atmosphere or one that recirculates back to the low pressure side of the turbo?What really confuses me is the turbo specs and all that trim info and what not!Please be gentle, this is my first venture into the world of FI.Thanks Afondo Link to post Share on other sites
MaidenVR6 26 Posted September 26, 2010 Report Share Posted September 26, 2010 Turbo wise get a T3 turbo with 0.82 exhaust house. Send Unitedmotorsport a PM and you will get perfect setup with all the parts you need.10 psi is good to go, without touching the engine.You diffrensial will hate turbo setup!Hahaha.. Good luck Link to post Share on other sites
Afondo 0 Posted September 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2010 So using a T3 turbo with a .82 trim will give me a well balanced setup that kicks in at 3000 rpm? Is this an ideal or is there a better (more recommended) setup?What sort of WHP could i expect to see running 9 psi?Would 32lb injectors with C2 software be the right fueling choice and would I need to add/uprate the fuel pump and or FPR?Would things be that bad without an LSD in the gearbox? Is anybody running this sort of setup with a standard box and clutch and how do you find it?BOV or recirc valve? Link to post Share on other sites
FishWick 21 Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 I have a rebuilt OBD2 engine thats done near 9k over the pasty year. Block' date=' head, all seals, pipes, pumps, radiator, chains, guides, all the sensors, engine & gearbox mounts, forged pistons and loads more. I really dont want to go to the expense of doing it all again so want to do this right!!I would like to build a setup based on the following requirements:No head spacer or low comp pistons[/quote']So why did you rebuild the motor with forged pistons and not fit low compression ones, knowing you were going turbo? Seems like a very counter productive move to me.And you talk of running it as a daily on the standard head gasket and head bolts! I think you need to rethink your priorities. If you think you can bolt a turbo on with just a change of software and put in 1000s of daily miles. Think again. The one thing you will find on forums is how eager people are to tell you how much power they make, but they never tell you about the problems, especially the minor ones that can easily bring a daily to a grinding halt. Link to post Share on other sites
ashmk3 0 Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 Exactly what he said if your gonna do something make sure you do it right and do it once. At a minimum you'll need to raise the head and use stronger bolts. The main reason I haven't gone f/I is the cost it's all the little bits that bring the big bits together. Link to post Share on other sites
Afondo 0 Posted September 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 Its not for cost reasons that I dont want to lower the compression, would it not be just as counter productive adding a head spacer to a low boost install?For example,the kinetics stage 1 and 2 kits are both designed to run on totally standard engines and there are loads of people who do just that without any issues. I am well aware that a custom turbo setup is not a bolt on and go, no headaches involved system. Just because its a daily driver is not to say its my only car. What you have said basically reads: If you put a turbo setup on your car your going to have endless problems.I dont see why a well designed system has to be that way. Link to post Share on other sites
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