Auto to Manual conversion

[nesHi 0]

Hi guys

I've got a Jetta VR6 automatic.

I wanted to know if some1 could help me with a guide on how to remove the auto box and install the manual one, I have already got the list of parts needed and got my guy sourcing them.

Any help will be much appreciated.

[CALICO 130]

for what you need to do remove engine and gearbox that way you can get to the peddle box assembly area easier i dont think anybody has actually swapped one over yet

[nesHi 0]

Yip, i plan on taking the motor out and merging the box to it outside the bay. then the mods happen with linkages and clutch master and slave..

[engineerrupert 0]

Well having just read this, I have recently done the conversion from auto to manual on my 1997 Vento VR6. The easiest way of getting the gearbox out is to drop the subframe complete with the engine and box, or support them bothand take the frame out by itsself, it is also worth poly busing it whilst the frame is out and you have good access to it. I am now on a mission to get my reverse lights to work. Also when doing the conversion you will need to know which wires to link to get the car to think it is in park or neutral to get it to start. To change the pedal box, I removed my dash as I was replacing my heater matrix at the same time, but it depends on how skilled and patient you are, it should be possible to do with the dash still in place.

[nesHi 0]

thanx

Just one thing though, will the car refuse to start if i keep the plugs unplugged out the gearbox, thought those plugs were not needed in the manual setup.

[ibzzzzz 0]

Posted this a few days ago on edition... i done it earlier this year with mine...and been enjoying since!

Important parts

Manual Gearbox with clutch fork for release bearing and mounts

Slave cylinder

Master cylinder

Metal Pipe from Master to slave

Flywheel

Manual Stater motor

Clutch, pressure plate and release bearing

Manual pedal box

Gear selector complete with cables

Reverse gear switch with plug

Enough wiring to go from engine bay to rear cluster

Gear selector gaiter with relevant coloured trim surround

Things you should get to totally wipe any evidence of auto-ness (optional)

Full set of coolant hoses

Throttle cable (I wouldn't)

brake fluid reservoir

Remember you'll need coolant, gearbox oil and alot of wd40 for the tough nuts.

as far as fitting goes its pretty simple.

Make sure its in neutral

Autobox off(support the box, take off lower gearbox cover and turn wheel to expose 3 bolts to undo one at a time, drive shafts from gearbox side off, unbolt starter and all bell housing bolts, selector cable and rock loose)

Torque converter off

Separator plate off (12 point spline bolts)...screw this up and you got problems!

Flywheel on

Clutch assembly on

Mount slave cylinder on

Catalysis converter and heat shield needs to come off and remove two bolts holding up the selector box (then the one remaining at the top in the interior) swap for new one then mount cat and shield. make sure the cables don't twist around each other.

Fill gearbox oil (easier with box off) I done it by taking off the selector tower and weight at the of the box 2x13mm bolts and pouring 2 litres straight in.

Mount box to engine with manual starter

Bolt the rear frame and drive shafts on

take off all plastics around the drivers side

Drill the steering column lost head bolts and remove the U-joint bolts and brackets

Unplug and remove steering column

Put in the master cylinder (holes are precut but bunged with rubber)

Pedal box comes off (pull extra extra hard on the brake pedal to remove it from the ball joint

New pedals go in tighten all bolts and use feet to push cylinder back onto the back of pedal.

After this it would be the perfect opportunity to do the wiring behind the fusebox for the starter motor **SCROLL DOWN FOR INSTRUCTIONS**

Once the wiring is done this is when you start to wrap up the job.

Steering column back in

Plastics back on

Clutch pipes connected cut off the extra nozzle on the brake fluid reservoir.

Bleed clutch

And put finish putting the parts back on...

For the wiring you need to:

Study this!

Then.....

Take the red/black wire out from the relay marked 150 and simply REPLACE the wire on position 1 of the F Block at the back of the fusebox (3rd white plug i think!). Then take the blue wire on position 4 from the same relay and replace the blue wire on position 6 of the F block. Then the other blue wire from position 5 and replace the blue wire on position 7 on the F Block. Thats all!

now for the reverse switch

Simply one of the plug one wire goes stright to a power supply (i went straight to the battery) and the other wire routed to the blue wire on the top plug on the LEFT cluster...i say left because it runs both lamps for brakes reverse and sidelights..

then thats finally it!! your complete enjoy your manual VR6!!

[VR6Pete 1,455]

This needs turning into a guide for the FAQ section!

[reiecco 0]

On 12/27/2010 at 4:03 AM, ibzzzzz said:

Posted this a few days ago on edition... i done it earlier this year with mine...and been enjoying since!

Important parts

Manual Gearbox with clutch fork for release bearing and mounts

Slave cylinder

Master cylinder

Metal Pipe from Master to slave

Flywheel

Manual Stater motor

Clutch, pressure plate and release bearing

Manual pedal box

Gear selector complete with cables

Reverse gear switch with plug

Enough wiring to go from engine bay to rear cluster

Gear selector gaiter with relevant coloured trim surround

Things you should get to totally wipe any evidence of auto-ness (optional)

Full set of coolant hoses

Throttle cable (I wouldn't)

brake fluid reservoir

Remember you'll need coolant, gearbox oil and alot of wd40 for the tough nuts.

as far as fitting goes its pretty simple.

Make sure its in neutral

Autobox off(support the box, take off lower gearbox cover and turn wheel to expose 3 bolts to undo one at a time, drive shafts from gearbox side off, unbolt starter and all bell housing bolts, selector cable and rock loose)

Torque converter off

Separator plate off (12 point spline bolts)...screw this up and you got problems!

Flywheel on

Clutch assembly on

Mount slave cylinder on

Catalysis converter and heat shield needs to come off and remove two bolts holding up the selector box (then the one remaining at the top in the interior) swap for new one then mount cat and shield. make sure the cables don't twist around each other.

Fill gearbox oil (easier with box off) I done it by taking off the selector tower and weight at the of the box 2x13mm bolts and pouring 2 litres straight in.

Mount box to engine with manual starter

Bolt the rear frame and drive shafts on

take off all plastics around the drivers side

Drill the steering column lost head bolts and remove the U-joint bolts and brackets

Unplug and remove steering column

Put in the master cylinder (holes are precut but bunged with rubber)

Pedal box comes off (pull extra extra hard on the brake pedal to remove it from the ball joint

New pedals go in tighten all bolts and use feet to push cylinder back onto the back of pedal.

After this it would be the perfect opportunity to do the wiring behind the fusebox for the starter motor **SCROLL DOWN FOR INSTRUCTIONS**

Once the wiring is done this is when you start to wrap up the job.

Steering column back in

Plastics back on

Clutch pipes connected cut off the extra nozzle on the brake fluid reservoir.

Bleed clutch

And put finish putting the parts back on...

For the wiring you need to:

Study this!

Then.....

Take the red/black wire out from the relay marked 150 and simply REPLACE the wire on position 1 of the F Block at the back of the fusebox (3rd white plug i think!). Then take the blue wire on position 4 from the same relay and replace the blue wire on position 6 of the F block. Then the other blue wire from position 5 and replace the blue wire on position 7 on the F Block. Thats all!

now for the reverse switch

Simply one of the plug one wire goes stright to a power supply (i went straight to the battery) and the other wire routed to the blue wire on the top plug on the LEFT cluster...i say left because it runs both lamps for brakes reverse and sidelights..

then thats finally it!! your complete enjoy your manual VR6!!

 Well, I'm new here and looking this topic up because I'm trying to figure out how to wire my VR six automatic to five speed swap but I don't see this picture here. Is it because it's been so long since the post? 

[Shiznit 0]

Do I need diffrent gearbox mountains for the auto to manual or its the same