Devilfish 0 Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 This is quite easy if you just want to change the tint of the clock (speedo/tacho/fuel/temp gauges) illumination. What you will need: Soldering Iron (fine tip) Fine solder Fine electrical screwdriver Wide blade (like a putty/filler knife) Sharp knife Cross-head screwdriver Torx Driver (No. 06) Hot-melt glue gun & GP glue stick Coloured Film (I used blue colour) LEDs: (I used RED) 3No. 5mm or 3mm 2V or 12V (door switches) 4No. 3mm 2V (mirror adjuster) 4No. 3mm 12V (dash switches) 1No. 3mm 2V (light switch) Resistors - 3No 470R, 1/2W (if required) for door switches PLENTY OF PATIENCE Clocks are easy to remove as there are no drive cables Remove the ABS/Airbag light unit - prize out with blade Push plunger on side of lighting switch to release and expose screw Remove trim on left of clocks to expose second screw Remove both screws securing binnacle surround Drop steering wheel column on adjuster to allow withdrawal of binnacle surround Remove both screws securing clocks Tilt clocks and remove loom connector on top-left side Un-click hinge pins holding lower edge of clocks Withdraw clocks Un-clip light box on top of clocks Remove green light filter film Replace with film colour of your choice Re-assemble reversing the order of above steps. This will still leave you with green LCD readouts unless you continue as follows (this is the trickier bit!): Unclip and remove back panel off clocks Using a No6 Torx bit, remove the 8No screws holding the PCB to the clock unit body Withdraw PCB and dials carefully, holding clear panel face-down. From behind PCB ease-off dial pointer to Tacho and Speedo with a screwdriver. Now remove the 8No No6 Torx screws holding the dials to the PCB. Remove the dials and this will leave the LCDs loose Carefully remove the LCD units and replace the green filters with a film colour of your choice Re-assemble reversing the order of above steps. PHEW! The electric window switches are next Unclip the door passenger handle outer cover with a wide screwdriver Release the loom connector Unclip the switch and withdraw it (This should be a single switch) Using a small screwdriver prize open the switch back part and pull apart The LED should be green, and is the variety which needs no in-line resistor (ie 12V direct connected) Snip off the LED at the brass crimp pin on both legs of the LED If you can't get 12V LEDs, then normal (2V) LEDs fitted with 0.25W, 470R resistor will be fine. Use an LED colour of your choice Make sure the polarity of the LED is correct before the soldering is done If fitting 3mm LEDs then using the original holder may be possible. If fitting 5mm LEDs then file-off the original crimp pins flush to ensure no short-outs Use a hot-melt glue gun secure the LED about 1-2mm off the switch base. Slightly enlarge the aperture in the switch upper body (square hole) to accept the 5mm LED Test before re-assembly of switch Re-assemble Test before re-assembly of switch into door. WELL THAT'S ONE ! The drivers side has double switch Once apart this is similar except it needs two LEDsPiccy Of The Converted Double Switch The electric mirror adjustment control should be removed before re-assembling the drivers door handle unit: Prize off rear of switch with small screwdriver Remove switch and joystick connector sliders with the sprung contacts (mind the grease!) Prize out the PCB with a small driver This unit has 4No 3mm Clear Green LEDs These are connected in series with a 680R resistor De-solder the LEDs and replace with conventional LEDs. Use an LED colour of your choice Re-assemble switch and insert into door handle unit The headlamp switch and dash illumination dimmer unit is next and by far the most annoying The switch should be removed as per removal of clocks section Prize off rear of switch with small screwdriver Carefully push dimmer knob to release internal assembly The unit is illuminated with a green 3mm LED which protrudes into the light switch knob and also a small bulb which does the rest UNFORTUNATELY the green filter for all but the knob is integral to the switch body and therefore can't be changed! Personally, I prized out the light conduit cover (black plastic), and removed the light conduit I trimmed some of the light filter plastic into small squares and carefully dropped them into the six or so green apertures. Re-assemble the bits carefully and clip the conduit cover back in place The green LED is a 12V type again, and the section for the door window switches is applicable to the LED installation. A 5mm will fit with trimming but a 3mm is easier. The heater controls are up next: Remove the ashtray and cigarette lighter completely Prize out switch blanks carefully with wide blade Slide out switches and disconnect from loom connectors Slide diagnostics socket cover off Carefully prize off heater control escutcheon plate Remove 6No screws and withdraw switch carrier Push heater controls into dash, down and forward Un-clip white bulb carrier Remove green plastic bulb shroud Take some of the colour filter film and cut to make a cylinder by bending and Glue onto bulb shroud over bulb using hot-melt glue Re-assemble reversing the order of above steps. Unfortunately the middle (heat control) knob has a green tinted light conduit insert! Remove the knob by carefully prizing the front cover using the recess in line with the handle grip This is remedied by obtaining a clear one as fitted to the other two knobs from a breakers yard, etc, and clipping in its placeThe Green Heat Control Knob Insert The switch controls are last: The switches which were removed above depend upon the model and accessories fitted I personally have: heated rear window, and a double switch - Aircon & Air Recirc. The single switch is easiest: Prize off the rear of the switch and carefully withdraw the mechanism. The green LED is a 12V type again, and the section for the door window switches is applicable to the LED installation. A 5mm will fit with trimming but a 3mm is easier. Re-assemble reversing the order of above steps. The double switch is more difficult: Carefully unclip the retaining wings which will expose the internals of the unit With a sharp pull, withdraw the switch buttons, catching the two springs for each De-solder the legs for both LEDs and then using a small blade remove the front half of the switch It is simplest to use 3mm 12V LEDs in this case, as the switch is intricate and positioning in-line resistors would prove tricky Observing the polarity of the green LEDs, carefully bend the new 3mm LED legs to exactly match the originals shape Re-assemble the LEDs in the holders and re-insert into the front part of the switch Clip the two switch halves back together, ensuring the contact mechanisms are in place Re-solder the LED legs to their terminals Insert the switch buttons and associated springs in their original locations Replace the retaining wings and voila! The glovebox light can be modified if desired: Prize out the light unit from the top with a thin blade Withdraw and disconnect the wiring loom connector Trim a piece of coloured filter plastic and fit in place Glue all corners with hot-melt glue gun Re-assemble reversing the order of above steps.Glovebox Light - Pictured From Behind The cigarette lighter has a green plastic lens so a change of colour isn't easy: I removed the backlight bulb so it doesn't illuminate at all! I am on the lookout for a red-illuminated version the next visit to the local breakers yard - maybe from an Audi or Mk4 Golf? Ha, ha - sorted this now. Trip to breaker reveals Audi 80s have what looks like an orange lens, but after a bit of a tight fit, actually lights-up red. Excellent!The Mk4 Golf convertible is really a Mk3 Golf with a few Mk4 touches. THE DASHBOARD IS ULTRA-COOL TEXTURED LIKE THE NEW POLO THE STEERING WHEEL IS MK4 GOLF STYLE THE FLAMING SWITCHES AND CLOCKS ARE COLOURED JUST LIKE THE MK4 THE DASH CLOCKS HAVE BLUE ILLUMINATION AND RED DIAL POINTERS - HECK THAT LOOKS COOL! ALL I NEED NOW IS A CRASHED MK4 CONVERTIBLE TO RAID!! Link to post Share on other sites
pete8tch 0 Posted February 5, 2005 Report Share Posted February 5, 2005 hmm. sounds easy ,NOT. Whats needed is for some DEVILFISHLY clever member to maybe do a set on exchange maybe, for a suitable fee, they would have the blue dash members swarming like LEMMINGS to have it done, ah well we will have to think about it.any ideas chris?? Link to post Share on other sites
MarkGolf 6 Posted February 5, 2005 Report Share Posted February 5, 2005 I did this..My e/w, e/w, dash buttons, heater controls are all now red. I was also lucky enought to 'FIND' a mk4 golf cab headlight switch, so everything is red now, only thing that isn't is the lil digital bits on the gauges, but that'll change when my new VR clocks go on..Good thing to do and is real easy Link to post Share on other sites
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