pfennell 0 Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 WOW after so many could it be that, i disconnected the charger air pipe to the throttle body and went back to basics running the standard air pipe,maf and air filter ,and it ran perfect apart from abit of idle minors...so i thought it was the air that was giving me the problems.so with a bit of trial and error i had to stabilize the air before it hit the maf by making the air pipe after the air filter longer and by doing this the air was less turbulant and the maf could cope with the extra intake of air..the charger works good so just have to get 100mm silicone so i can get the correct length of pipe and ready to go......now need to get rid of the obd2 intake mani,maf and throttle body.waste of 200 sheets could of brought some new tarox discs Link to post Share on other sites
bungy 2 Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Surely it is still worth going OBD2 especially if you intend going up in psi and further mapping? Link to post Share on other sites
pfennell 0 Posted March 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 obd1 is the way forward, im sure i will figure it out as i go along,i dont think i will be able to run the charge cooler cos i would not be able to stabilise the air on such a short system so running an intercooler would be a better option. i think with the mapping ill go stand alone cos got a afm controller on route.obd2 seems to be a pain in the ass and the time ive spent the money on converting i would be better spending the cash on standalone..i the battle is nearly won..... Link to post Share on other sites
bungy 2 Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Sounds like you are making good progress. What standalone are you going for? Link to post Share on other sites
pfennell 0 Posted March 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 not sure yet but reading about DTA dont need sommat amazing just simple and easy to use probs go for the i pad2 lol Link to post Share on other sites
legvw 0 Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Have a look at Emerald mate, very easy to use, might be a bit cheaper than DTA too. MAF's are a pain, but MAP's are simple, and probably better suited for boost. Link to post Share on other sites
gaz.veedub 0 Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 what problems were you having mate? Link to post Share on other sites
FishWick 21 Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 Have you got the factory air straightener on your MAF? Link to post Share on other sites
pfennell 0 Posted March 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 what do you mean the air straightener... Link to post Share on other sites
spadam 7 Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 Plastic grill in front of the sensor looks like a plastic grid. Link to post Share on other sites
Antihero1981 8 Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 does it make a difference with the plastic grill? Link to post Share on other sites
jims13 6 Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 its there for a reason ! Link to post Share on other sites
FishWick 21 Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 Indeed. Turbo and super compressors create a vortex over the MAF element, which needs straightening. Otherwise just like a whirlpool, the bulk of the air flows to outer edges of the MAF tube and flows 'around' the element, and not 'over' it.If the MAF is mounted far enough away from the turbo / super, it sorts itself out, but it's not always possible. Link to post Share on other sites
Gazbarber1982 3 Posted March 20, 2011 Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 I had the 'vortex' problem with my maf being mounted too close to the charger inlet. Moved it back 4" and car sorted now. Link to post Share on other sites
DrRich 1 Posted April 12, 2011 Report Share Posted April 12, 2011 I can second this about the grille. I'm running normally aspirated, with a BMC intake. Thought I'd remove the grille to increase airflow a bit but can't say I noticed any difference in performance. What I did notice was that after I'd driven in a 'spirited' fashion, there would be a MAF (Short to B+) error stored sometimes. I didn't put 2 and 2 together for a while (was a long time between removing it and VAGCom'ing it), but when I eventually put the grille back on, no further problems.I suspect the problem would be even worse on FI applications. Strangely, I never saw this on the OBD1 cars I had previously with the same CAI, but my Mk2 now has an OBD2 lump - perhaps more sensitive or something? Link to post Share on other sites
jims13 6 Posted April 12, 2011 Report Share Posted April 12, 2011 obd2 has a host of features ecu wise that an obd1 car doesnt have . Link to post Share on other sites
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