russj249 2 Posted August 28, 2011 Report Share Posted August 28, 2011 Today I've made my own stainless 4" MAF housing, it fits just the element bit obviously, and made so the elements sit exactly in the middle of the pipe.I was wondering if I would need a mesh like the standard one does (just the one end) to take out the turbulence in the air? I'd be putting an air filter directly onto the end of the MAF, and wondered if I should put anything there. Never seen Stealth's version or any others 1st hand so don't know if they use them or not.ThanksJoe Link to post Share on other sites
jims13 6 Posted August 28, 2011 Report Share Posted August 28, 2011 no, u dont need it, but maf spacing from the charger of any sort it vital. to close and you will get maf turblunace Link to post Share on other sites
russj249 2 Posted August 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2011 Ok thanks for the info. the placement will be roughly 20 inches or more away from the turbine, i'll be coming off from turbo with a 45 degree elbow then i'm going to make a 4 inch t-piece for the re-circ valve , then bend the intake pipe with air flow meter on the end so it'll be as close to behind the light as possible. i'm trying to make it so there won't be any sharp bends or kinks. Link to post Share on other sites
jims13 6 Posted August 28, 2011 Report Share Posted August 28, 2011 yes smoothness is the key ... Link to post Share on other sites
russj249 2 Posted August 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2011 Good good. that should be ok then. i was going to run a 90 degree reducer straight off the turbo before this, into 3 inch pipe and use standard maf. i've already made the dump valve t-piece with oil breather and idle control spout but that's 3 inch so no use now! anyway after reading about accuracy of standard maf with boost i thought i'd play it safe. Link to post Share on other sites
DrRich 1 Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 I would just say that when I removed the mesh from my OBD2 MAF I kept getting a MAF code (short to B+, intermittent) when I was, er, enthusiatic with the throttle. This never happened to my OBD1 cars.This was a normally-aspirated engine, with a decent amount of pipe before the MAF opening from my BMC CDA. Not sure whether the code caused any running problems (didn't notice any) but to an anal-retentive like me DTCs are a problem... Link to post Share on other sites
poll250 0 Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 I'd stick some mesh on there if I were you. I think by reducing the turbulence in the MAF, the airflow reading that it takes is more representative of the amount actually going in. If that makes sense? Link to post Share on other sites
jims13 6 Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 you do not need mesh with a 4" maf. i ran a 4" maf for around 2 years and never had any problem .. as long as your software is good, and your hardware problem free you will be fine Link to post Share on other sites
russj249 2 Posted September 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 Just as an update, I've decided just to put some mesh over the end, will be welding it up later.I've got some stainless steel wire mesh thats 6mm x 6mm. Perfect stuff really.My mom hasn't noticed just yet, but the £20 stainless steel bird feeder is 4.5 inches shorter than before Patdubz 1 Link to post Share on other sites
leespiro 9 Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 hi just need to know if a 4inch hosuing is needed on the rotrex c30 94 setup running 1 bar boost with 440cc injecter on standard obd2 ecu cheer lee Link to post Share on other sites
sedge 7 Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 A quick question for you dude, did you use 4" internal diameter pipe or 4" external diameter and what wall thickness did you go for? Need to make myself one soon too. Link to post Share on other sites
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