cookstar 0 Posted September 5, 2011 Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 I have a big end bearing starting to go, on my VR6 (in a MK2) This I believe happened due to running with low oil. oops. I was speaking to a friend this morning, who said sometime it is possible to replace the shells by simply removing the sump and working along one at a time. Is this possible on the VR6 engines at all, and if so does anyone have any kind of tips, or a how to on this please. Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites
UnitedMotorsport 55 Posted September 5, 2011 Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 You can change the bearings with the engine still in the car. It is easy enough, remove the sump and the oil pump to make it easier. Link to post Share on other sites
Daverse 175 Posted September 5, 2011 Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 As above really, but remember to put the sump plug back in.. otherwise on refill you'll go through many bottles.. Link to post Share on other sites
cookstar 0 Posted September 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 Great, good to know, can anyone recommend a good supplier of bearing kits please. Link to post Share on other sites
cookstar 0 Posted September 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 One more question guys, does anyone know the correct torque setting for the cap bolts? Link to post Share on other sites
VeeRsix 0 Posted September 5, 2011 Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 Lo M8You may need to polish the crank journal before fitting new shells if your unlucky and have marred the journal surface, if you have dont just fit new shells or you,ll be visiting your crank again very soon !!! instead get a strip of 1000,s.1200,s emery paper oil it up and polish out ant imperfections.There a doddle to fit as they have locating tongues just use a little vaseline to stick one half to the upper conrad section as you push it of the crank then pull back down into place and add the end cap, you,ll get the idea when you turn into a fruit bat to work upside down lol.Stephenps i have torque settings but im not in work till tommorow so will post em then unless another member posts first Link to post Share on other sites
cookstar 0 Posted September 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 Great, those torque settings would be great. Do the sumps come off fairly easliy, and do they have a gasket? Is there any recommended method to refitting the sump i.e sealant etc? Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites
Daverse 175 Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 depends on the year of the car, after 97 they just used sealant, before they used gaskets. give the block lip and the sump a wipe down with cleab ragsvand maybe white spirits before refitting.the sumps pretty straight forward, just incredibly tedious! Link to post Share on other sites
VeeRsix 0 Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 Lo M8Will post you setting tommorow ,sorry first day schools back its been kinda hectic 8-)Stephen Link to post Share on other sites
VeeRsix 0 Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 Lo m8Apols for the delay heres the torque settingsMains 22FT/IBS OR 3KGM + 180deg or 1/2 turn.Big Ends 22FT/IBS OR 3KGM +180deg or 1/2 turn.Sump Bolts 11FT/IBS OR 1.5KGM Tighten in a diagonal sequence.Stephenps Presumably your doing the mains aswell ?. Link to post Share on other sites
cookstar 0 Posted September 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2011 was just intending to do the big ends for the time being, are the main bearings just as easy to do then? Thanks a bunch for the torque settings, I'm going to be doing this on Sunday, so wish me luck. Link to post Share on other sites
VeeRsix 0 Posted September 10, 2011 Report Share Posted September 10, 2011 Chances are both the big ends and mains have had the same usage, so it becomes false economy to do just the B/Es as you,ll more than likeley need to replace them very soon anyway and there just as easy to do, just slacken all the end caps first this will allow you to slide in/out the new/old shell easily, use plenty of clean oil when fitting.Stephen Link to post Share on other sites
cookstar 0 Posted September 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 Well I just replaced the big end shells, this is the first time I have ever done anything like this and didn't want to jump in to deep. It was actually a fairly easy job to do, took about 2 hours all in, half an hour of that was trying to remove a sump bolt that had rounded, grrrrr. Going to fill with oil tomorrow after I source a sump gasket and see what happens. I believe that I found the one that was knocking as when I removed the big end cap, there was noticeably more oil in between the shell and the part of the crank that it bolt around (sorry don't know the name for this part) Indicating to me to be more clearance for the oil to gather in... Does this make sense? I'll start a new thread for this, but if anyone reads this before hand, then an answer would be great. I need to get a replacement gasket for the sump, now Euro Car Parts have quoted £25ish and it's in stock, Hlafords have quoted around £8 and it's a two day special order part. Will the Halfords item be inferior? Also do I just replace the gasket and tighten or should I use some kind of gasket sealant as well? Link to post Share on other sites
cookstar 0 Posted September 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 Filled with oil, cranked over without leads on until oil pressure light went out, then put everything back together and atrted on the button, runs and sounds smooth. Well chuffed with myself. Link to post Share on other sites
VeeRsix 0 Posted September 13, 2011 Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 Well done M8,and you saved ya self a fortune !!!Stephen Link to post Share on other sites
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