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Hello all!

Im getting a company car within 6 weeks and the VR will be off the road for a bit. My girlfriends old man is a mechanic and hes offered to help me to make a go of the VR as the compressions low on the head plus im going to change the seals and tappets. Can anyone answer the following questions.......

Is the bently manual really that good? Is it a similar layout to the haynes manual for example????

While the head is off is there anything that you recommend changing. such as valve springs etc???

Any special tools that are needed?

Any other advice or recommendations????

Last question ;-) where are the carnkcase breather pipes located on the VR,I want to check to make sure they are not blocked...........

Thanks in advance!

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I've never seen a Bentley workshop manual but everyone seems to rave about them, you just have to sift through all the US spelling and grammar.

I think I saw a VR6 one on eBay a short while ago, worth checking out!

What company car are you getting, anything nice...?

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the bentley details everything you would want to know abut the vr6, will be a good addition to your toolbox, will help with many areas other than the head too. and its very detailed yet very easily understood. be careful though, some things are for US cars only so a little thinking is needed with things like abs etc..

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I've got both manuals and find that the Peter Russek VR6 manual is slightly more detailed when it comes to engine internals as that's what it's focussed on. The bentley is good, but covers all engines, and the rest of the car as well. They compliment each other really.

Rich

[ Edited Sun Mar 06 2005, 08:57PM ]

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Nice one guys- think ill get both of those manuals then. Peakz- not getting anything fancy m8- really wanted a new Golf TDI- but the company only deal with henry's so ive ordered a mondeo TDCI - should save me a shed load in fuel though! And that way i get to take my time while stripping the VR down.... Anyone know if there are essential VW tools for the job? (although i suppose the manual will tell me this)

I think youre right binliner- the breather is on the left hand side- reason i ask is when i go down a hill for example and let it roll on a trainig throttle, when i accelerate i get blue smoke- im hoping ive got a blocked breather or the vacuum valve on the cam cover is fooked or blocked- this is exactly what a m8 had happen to him (although not on a golf!) .... i was thinking seals 1st of all but it doesnt seem to happen on the motorway (when i change gear for example) and sometimes i get a strong smell of oil when im letting the car go on a trailing throttle. If its blocked then the pressure could be forcing the oil up through the bores- last night i was thinking it could be a sticking oil ring, as the smoking seems to be more intermittent- im going with breather first. Anyone else had similar problems? Im finding it pretty hard to believe my head needs reconditioning with just 68k on the clock!!

Any other tips peeps?????

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The only tool I've used for the head is the plate to lock the cams at TDC, but then I've not done anything at it other than removing it. Part number is 3268.

68k does sound low for head work. Can you authenticate the mileage. Don't want to worry you, but I bought a VR6 Corrado a few years back from a VW dealer with 29k on the clock. Had loads of problems with it and then someone checked the history on the VAG computers and found it has three lots of warranty work in the first twelve months, the last one recorded at 79k!! The first service was three months after this with 8k. The car had been clocked before it was a year old. Got my money back from the dealer, they were really good about it.

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68k does sound low for head work. Can you authenticate the mileage. Don't want to worry you' date=' but I bought a VR6 Corrado a few years back from a VW dealer with 29k on the clock. Had loads of problems with it and then someone checked the history on the VAG computers and found it has three lots of warranty work in the first twelve months, the last one recorded at 79k!! The first service was three months after this with 8k. The car had been clocked before it was a year old. Got my money back from the dealer, they were really good about it.[/quote']

crikey! but not surprising they were good about it as you would have definately won in a court case....same with any car bought from a genuine trader as there are laws to protect you when purchasing a car from a trader.

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That sounds shocking Trackman! I checked the mileage with VW before i bought it- it had only done 33k by mid 2001. And it was family owned up unitl i bought it, where the last kid bought it off his uncle (and the kid couldnt really afford to run it) so after 9 months i bought it from him. Im going to scotland today until Friday so when i get back 1st point of call is checking breathers and the Vacuum thats connected to the cam cover :-) that would be great if thats whats causing the excess oil burning..... Rich- that would be great m8- ill see you next weekend ;-)

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Yeah m8 - so do i! ;-) Ive just had a quick look before i set off to Scotland (thats dedication!) The pipe come from the cam cover straight to the air intake, so i take it, it breathes internally as there seem to be no other pipes going staright to the block. I seem to have a build up of oil around the end of the pipe (air intake side) and its been dripping on the heat shield (thats what the smell of oil is!) Now i take it this shouldnt be happening and im thinking the vacuum/ valve could be screwed- Ive got my girlfriends old man on the case as im going to Scotland now!!! (And ill be stewing over this the entire time im there otherwise!!!) Any thanks guys- ill let you know what the cause is when i get back- be one to watch if it is the breather/ vacuum!

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That can sometimes be the case ACF - just hoping not with mine lol Ok guys, anyone know anything about the breather system on the VR? My knowledge of crankcase breathers has taught me that a pipe usually comes from the block and leads to the airbox. However on the VR6 i have a pipe coming from the plastic inlet (just before the throttle body) and this leads to a plug and sensor (which for some reason is actually blanked- maybe because it was used on early VR's and they didnt change the loom???) then it leads into a vacuum valve and then into the rocker cover. Now my question is this- does the VR6 reduce crank pressure internally up through the engine (and not externally) by the use of this + vacuum breather?? The valve (UFO shaped job) part that connects onto the rocker cover doesnt seem to create any type of vacuum when im sucking and blowing on it (not a common sight thankfully!) and ive got oil going in to my air intake..... (Not normal) In a way in quite chuffed as this could be the reason why my car is smoking oil for no apparent reason.... BTW does anyone have a spare one of these (on an old engine or something??) PM me if you have.... :-)

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low mileage engine wear was due to a phenomenon called bore wash but to be honest new cars with fuel injection because they are more ac\curate dont do it like older cars with chokes, cars onchoke run rich and the exess fuel literally washed the oil from the bores low miles mean lots of short journeys so the car is on choke more often.

see history lessons from a car site, if any of u had a mini bet u used a peg to keep the choke out till the car was warm.

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No, not yet buddy. Ive found out somewhere i can get the part (as VW want 115 quid as youve got to buy the whole inlet pipe!!) Euro Car Parts do one for 30 quid. However i dont want to do this until i know this is the problem. I dont believe that VR's are occasionally supposed to smoke- especially with 69k on the clock! - if it was moking while changing gear then i would say valve seals - but it doesnt! If it was a sticking ring i wouls definitlely know about it but besides from noisy(ish) tappets the car runs fine.... JaysVR6 had a similar problem but it just went away... Guys anyone fancy checking there part -the vacuum valve - for me- so i can eliminate it from my conclusions.... :-) Thanks

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