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Are these all the bolts to replace the bush fixings with new?

Lukey.
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Lukey.

Lukey. 381

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I'm going to be replacing my worn out rear axle bushes and have dealt with old seized bolts before, and they're a pain in the arse, so I'm going to replace them with stainless bolts.

Ive browsed ETKA and found the bolt dimensions, but i have never heard of this c/w shoulder before.

Anyone know what it is? This is how it is listed in the catalogue

N 90354401

hexagon head bolt c/w shoulder

M12X1.5X122

Cheers

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Lowlifedubber

Lowlifedubber 9

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Would you not be better off getting some 12.9 tensile BZP/Sheridized bolts and covering them in copper grease?

Like this with a hex head?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M12-SOCKET-CAP-ALLEN-SCREW-BOLTS-BZP-12-9-HIGH-TENSILE-4-PACK-/140694273175?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item6674ac329d#ht_500wt_835

The only reason i say this is i find if you mix a stainless steel bolt with a mild steel fastening they tend to fur up just as quick.Plus depending on the grade of stainless you get they can be quite brittle and dont stand shocks very well.

I can have a look at work(im a mechanical engineer) this weekend and see if i can pick you some up and post them out to you if you like.

I have some m12 ss set screws in my garage that are quite long but i think you would be better with bolts.

Also i think c/w means complete with shoulder.

Cheers

Gary

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Lukey.

Lukey. 381

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thanks for the info mate, hmm, high tensile sheradised would be better wouldnt it, why didnt i think of that lol, basically i want to replace them with something new thats strong enough to do its job, and sheradised bolts should stand up to weathering too.

I havent even looked under the car yet to see what the original bolts are made of, but my rubbers are shot and need replacing and im an "over do it so it lasts forever" man, i also feel that the originals wont give up their position easily so might be destroyed getting them off.

Also i suppose that thread pitch doesnt really matter as long as i got nuts to suit, I think it will have to be bolts as its a pivot point yea.

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Lukey.

Lukey. 381

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Would you not be better off getting some 12.9 tensile BZP/Sheridized bolts and covering them in copper grease?

Like this with a hex head?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M12-SOCKET-CAP-ALLEN-SCREW-BOLTS-BZP-12-9-HIGH-TENSILE-4-PACK-/140694273175?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item6674ac329d#ht_500wt_835

The only reason i say this is i find if you mix a stainless steel bolt with a mild steel fastening they tend to fur up just as quick.Plus depending on the grade of stainless you get they can be quite brittle and dont stand shocks very well.

I can have a look at work(im a mechanical engineer) this weekend and see if i can pick you some up and post them out to you if you like.

I have some m12 ss set screws in my garage that are quite long but i think you would be better with bolts.

Also i think c/w means complete with shoulder.

Cheers

Gary

Well if you have some suitable nuts and bolts at your work it would sure be appreciated, we could sort something out if you had some

Cheers

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Lukey.

Lukey. 381

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so ive been looking through etka drawings and could anybody confirm these are the correct sizes and quantity of bolts to replace all the current old bolts for the chassis bushes?

need 2x everything ??

Rear beam

N 90354401

hexagon head bolt c/w shoulder

M12X1,5X122 /

N 90238503

shouldered hex. nut, self-locking

M12X1,5 /

Front

wishbone outer bolt

N 10127706

hexagon head bolt c/w shoulder

M8X26 /

wishbone front

N 90484003

hexagonal head bolt

M12X1,5X82 /

wishbone rear

N 10207803

hexagonal head bolt

M12X1,5X78 /

Subframe

4x ??

N 10246501

hexagon head bolt c/w shoulder

M10X62 /

Thanks

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Lowlifedubber

Lowlifedubber 9

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That sounds about right Luke.

Ive had a look at work and ive picked some bolts up.Not entirely what you required but would do the job.

I will grab some pics later if you like but ive just got up after a 17 hour night shift so im just injecting myself with coffee lol.

I managed to get some self coloured 115mm 12.9tensile unbrako cap head bolts with stainless washers and sheridized/bzp locking nuts.I think i got a handfull of other stuff too but i will have a look exactly what i got later.

I struggled to find any high tensile (12.9) that are coated thought im afraid.

Im happy to wang what i have in the post but it looks like you want quite a few different sizes and length so i would be very tempted to either go online or get DEMON TWEEKS motorsport catalugue and just order the sizes you require from your ETKA list.

Im a bit like you and replaced every nut and bolt on my chassis(bit of overkill but if you do something,do it right ;)

When i used to run motorbikes i always used to use MR Fastner for my bolts and stuff,not sure if they are still on the go but they were very good.

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Lukey.

Lukey. 381

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Yea thanks for that mate, I found the same difficulty and then had a couple of hours to kill yesterday waiting for kids to play in a wacky warehouse, gun to head stuff that is!!

I also found the many different bolts etc and thought it not really fair to expect anyone to be able to get the exact spec, so not sure whether oem new bolts will suffice as they are high tensile and are obviously the exact spec, plus with polys they aren't likely to need to be off and on again for years and years

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Lowlifedubber

Lowlifedubber 9

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Yeah i would agree with the constand removal,ive found a lot of bolts that i removed on suspension/chassis parts were only 8.8 tensile.So i just replaced the lot with 12.9's with a good dose of copper slip on them.I too went with polybushes(sooo much easier than oem for the rear axle bush)

Ive also never has to remove anything although this will change when i go to put my new engine in at the end of the year.

Let me know how you get on,i will help you out where i can with what we have at work :)

Gaz

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Lukey.

Lukey. 381

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Ive just got the rears done today and i couldnt find anything suitable locally so got the 2 sets of OEM nuts and bolts for the rear axle bushes, they are 10.9 hi tensile and the originals were a total SOB to remove.

The front subframe ones i had a quick look and are 8.8 but couldnt even get the washers off the tops of them, and i cant take the subframe out so will have to cut the washers off and just fit some replacements

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