Crack Pipe replacement

[jamiej 0]

That does look at good deal.

[jamiej 0]

The assembly is under way. Just a quick question,how do you know when the crack pipe is in far enough, i knocked it in with a mallet but don't want to put it all back together and then find out its weeping. Any tips/ideas or will the TStat housing drive it home?

Thanks

[psilosimon 8]

Grrr, I've just lost £15 of G12 down the drive because of crack pipe issues. Really getting to the end of my tether. Started by snapping the plastic tube that leads to the oil cooler, so ordered new plastic crack pipe off of ebay. Managed to split two O rings trying to fit it into engine block. Tried wet n dry around the the housing to remove any sharp bits, tried smidgion of copper grease, then tried drop of fairy liquid, still split further two O rings that I had spare. eventually got my last remaing O ring to fit in. put everything back together but it started to drip after adding coolant. Took it all apart, tried tube without O ring - measured how far it went in and marked it with tape, tried with seal up to the same mark - still leaked.

What I did next seemed to work but I don't think is right, and my go wrong I don't know, but I put the O ring in the housing up against the lip then fitted the pipe up to the O ring, tightened up the T/stat stuff and the leak stopped (from there anyway).

Then I noticed a leak from the T/stat housing end. Once again took it apart, wasting more coolant down the drive.

This end seemed to fit better with the O ring in its groove as it should and I refit it only to find the leak was actually coming from the yellow switch which is fairly loose in its housing - So at least that should be an easy enough fix (he says).

I know it's a bit of a long story - Question is; Should I get some more crack pipe seals and try again with one fitted in the groove, or leave what I've done well alone now it has stopped leaking.

[Lukey. 381]

Sounds a bit catch 22. It's not leaking while the car is stood still but could it easily be jarred when back together and start leaking again.

Also the o ring isn't in it's groove so what's gonna happen when up to temperature and pressure?

I have always put a good bead of loctite grey coolant resistant sealant on the o rings and never had a leak issue there, I've had it on and off a couple of times and the sealant has always cleaned off fine too. So I can recommend this method for assurance. You'll know its sealed in cos when the sealant has gone off overnight the pipe and housing/block end are all very firmly attached to each other.

[VR6Pete 1,455]

Hi mate,

Those crack pipes are a pesky thing, If you don't give the block a good clean where the lip is you can guarantee it will leak, a dremel or some scotch pads usually helps clean it all up.

What I would have done personally would have been to fill the system up with just water before adding any coolant, ran the engine until you were happy there was no leaks, drain the water and then add your coolant.

For jobs like these, id recommend a drain pan or something similar to catch any coolant and re-use as required.

drain pans are around 15 quid, and worth every penny

[Gefstar 1]

For peoples information:

Stainless Crack Pipe from Black Forest Industries can be purchased here (other retailers are available - However I can't find them!!) - http://regal-shop-px.rtrk.co.uk/vw/acatalog/BFIGolf-MK3.html

Loctite 5699 Grey Gasket Sealant ( Water Glycol resistant) can be purchased here (other retailers are available - However I can't find them!!) - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pipe-thread-sealants/3883870/

Hope this helps and they are the right products

Cheers

[Lukey. 381]

You can get the grey loctite sealant from halfords