paceo 22 Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 weird one, fitted my brand new catalytic convertor for MOT the other day and was running fine.got home today after a 6 mile drive home from work and went to go out 5 minutes later and the car wouldnt start and smelt of fuel. left it 15 minutes started it and it ran fine then 3 to 4 minutes later it cut out again and wouldnt start. had a look at fuel lines from tank and engine and no splits etc...any ideas? ive replaced all sensors like temp etc... a year ago. Link to post Share on other sites
filtee 0 Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 The wire from the lambda hasnt touched and melted or split has it? Link to post Share on other sites
russj249 2 Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 Check the diaphragm in the fuel presume regulator isn't split, had a similar problem with mine that stunk of fuel and wouldn't start.. maybe drop the vacuum pipe off the FPR and block the inlet manifold side off with your finger, and see if any fuel comes out the vacuum pipe.If that's ok then might have to get it on vag com and see what faults come up. Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted July 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 cheers russ, FPR was new about 3 months ago.just got it running again after i let it cool down drove it for 1 mile driving perfect and it cut out again.i did put some fuel additive in it, 400ml of injector cleaner that reduces emmissions etc. maybe the engine doesnt agree with it??? link below-http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221057506741 Link to post Share on other sites
Nero Mk 2 8 Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 I'll stick it on the modus tomorrow for you Link to post Share on other sites
russj249 2 Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 Where did you buy the FPR from? I bought one off eBay and after about 2 wheels I had it popping a lot, smell of fuel and struggling to start with wet plugs.. the diaphragm had split and was pumping fuel straight down the vacuum pipe into the inlet manifold.I mean, the chances of this happening again aren't likely, but you never know.But, if its only done this since the CAT replaced, it could be sensor related and just overfueling in general because of a faulty sensor. Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted July 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 cheers russ got it from ebay non genuine done about 500 miles on it, bloody just got rid of my old genuine FPR!! im thinking could it be the CAT causing the engine not to breath right, but ive drove 20 miles or so on it and its been fine???? lambda is brand new as well budd. Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 I had the same thing happen with a Chinese piece of shite FPR Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted July 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2012 I had the same thing happen with a Chinese piece of shite FPRsold my old 4 bar regulator on ebay the other day for £8 quid! :-( Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted July 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2012 update guys- left the car overnight so the engine was stone cold, started up fine and drove 1 mile round the block and left on the drive to idle, as soon as it gets to operating temperature it cuts out and wont start. Link to post Share on other sites
Daverse 175 Posted July 6, 2012 Report Share Posted July 6, 2012 Coolant temperature sensor? Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted July 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2012 Coolant temperature sensor?only replaced it 2 years ago, but spoke to vince @ stealth racing a minute ago and he said possibly temperature 2 pin sender is faulty. Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted July 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2012 temp sender not sorted it, was only £9 so no big loss. getting no spark now it seems and wont fire at all now. Link to post Share on other sites
russj249 2 Posted July 7, 2012 Report Share Posted July 7, 2012 Have you replaced cam or crank sensors? Also what are the results from the diagnostics check? Any fault codes? Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted July 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 all sorted guys, had it on vag com and its the crank position sensor 05113 fault code coming up. thanks for the help peeps! Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted July 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 not sorted guys, engine speed sensor code was the only one that showed but fitted a brand new sensor and its still not firing up! still getting no spark at all!!have taken spark plugs out and dryed them as they were wet with petrol Link to post Share on other sites
legvw 0 Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 Back to basics. Check spark with a plug removed, if no-check power to coil, if no-check power and relay. Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted July 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 Back to basics. Check spark with a plug removed' date=' if no-check power to coil, if no-check power and relay.[/quote']ordered a new ignition coil off ebay not too much so will try that!checked with a new spark plug i had lying around and not sparking off any of the leads. Link to post Share on other sites
russj249 2 Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 Just note that if you do a test on vag com with the engine not running, it will come up with a fault for engine speed sensor (or similar code) it clears as soon as the engine starts. Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Just note that if you do a test on vag com with the engine not running' date=' it will come up with a fault for engine speed sensor (or similar code) it clears as soon as the engine starts.[/quote']hmm not sure if its come up before as ive used vag com in the past.so now im not getting a spark im thinking maybe ignition coil?? bad earth somewhere?? or relay related?? any idea of a number relay as i have a few spare for the vr6. dizzy is new a year ago and looks fresh still.thanks russ :-) Link to post Share on other sites
russj249 2 Posted July 11, 2012 Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Erm I'm sure its something like 109 and 167 are the ones.. top left and the one to the left of bottom right in the fusebox.. these are fuel pump and engine management.. I know the fuel pump one isn't probably going to be the issue, but I can't remember which is which I've also heard one won't work without the other but not sure how true this is. Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 i bought them relays off you didnt i? ill try swapping with my old ones buddy. 109 is ecu and 167 is fuel pump relay. Link to post Share on other sites
russj249 2 Posted July 11, 2012 Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Oh yea you did lol.. try swapping them back yea, were working fine on mine and replaced them as I thought it would cure my problem but it didnt. Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 im trying to get a spark but have the fuel pump relay out as i dont want to pump fuel into the bores, so pop relay back in you reakon if 167 and 109 only work together? Link to post Share on other sites
russj249 2 Posted July 11, 2012 Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Well I'm not top sure to be perfectly honest.. I am only.going on what I read somewhere a while ago, but I would think that the engine management relay controls the fuel pump relay, but not the other way round.. Link to post Share on other sites
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