Golf Mk3 VR6 on Air - Supercharger.

[VR6Pete 1,455]

Brilliant mate! Love the seats. I've got a repair kit for my steering wheel and gear knob, did you just sand the leather down before applying the cleaner / dye?

[c00k 435]

No I removed the finish 1st. Using acetone, which they call leather prep.

Soaking cotton wool in it. And putting that inside of a ultra fine scouring pad. Then rubbing that all over the surface. Clean off any excess.

Then clean it with isopropanol. Finally light sand, and apply leather compound if needed. And sand some more.

Edited August 11, 2014 by c00k

[VR6Pete 1,455]

Best see what is in my kit as my steering wheel looks pretty poop and has some deeper scores where it's perished that night need compound but will take a look

[c00k 435]

If the leather in areas is already very warn, the finish and usually the dye aswell have already been removed from ware and tare. So they may just need light sanding.

It's the none warn area that will need to be clean with acetone. To remove the finish. So the new leather dye can soak in. Before sealing and finishing over the top.

Leather compound is brilliant stuff. Just don't apply to much and lose a lot of the grain. You can clean it out with a cock tail stick if needed. I applied mine with lolly pop sticks in the end. As there thin. And minor areas with cock tail stick.

Also water or isopropanol will remove the leather compound. Good for if you do put to much on. But be carefully when cleaning it down before dying. That you don't remove any you want to keep.

You also need a very light spray if spraying. I used a 1.2mm gun. Could of used a 0.8mm fine. Could even use air brush.

Or apply with a sponge. I didn't like the finish a sponge left. I've got an airbrush on order to do my door cards. May also use it for the edge of the rear seats next to red. Depends how accurate I can keep it.

Edited August 11, 2014 by c00k

[Surreyvr6 199]

I applied mine with lolly pop sticks in the end. As there thin. And minor areas with cock tail stick.

now that is attention to detail! Edited August 11, 2014 by Surreyvr6

[c00k 435]

Cheers dude. It's the best way.

Apply to much and you would end up lossing the grain around the repaired area. And it not looking like leather. It would be all smooth.

Small details make all the differance.

[Surreyvr6 199]

Yeh deffinately, a lot if the time it's those little things that don't stand out individually, that make the car stand out as a whole

[c00k 435]

New air ride manifold arrived a week or 2 ago, from the US.
This is there new threaded version, so you can use you own fittings.

Meaning you have a choice of air line, not limited to 3/8" dot air line.
As there old style manifolds came with 3/8" push to connect fitting,
pre fixed and sealed in to the manifold.
Down side to this are, you can only use 3/8" air line,
and if you damage or have a leaking fitting, you need to send it away to get the fitting re-pressed and sealed in to the unit.

With this new type I bought, you can use any  fittings you want, so you can run any size or type of airline.
Plus if you damage or score the inside of the fitting, you can replace it your self!

Got it built up with my fittings and PSI sensors for me PSI screen in the front.



Then I removed all this from the boot to be replaces with new manifold.

Old 8 valves on left, new manifold on right.

All the individual valves and fitting, and old air line are for sale, if anyone wants them.
I would recommend buying new airline 10mm O.D. I have loads and loads of fittings, and 8 valves, all 300psi rated.
Not your cheaper 150psi rated version.


Then spliced my loom in to the one that came with the manifold.
I kept both standard plug either end, as I plan to plug in my iPhone controller in the spare plug.
and plug it in to my existing system.

So when it finished it will be able to be controlled by either the switches in the front middle console, wireless fod, or iPhone.

Used some rectifier diodes to stop revers polarity. So when you press the switches in the front, it won't fry the iPhone controller, from the power going down the wire the wrong way. I also did this with the wireless fob controller I made awhile ago. Plus I used similar but more powerfully ones on my speed controller for the fans in the engine.


I was going to make the new system completely out of hardlines. or possibly dot approved lines.
But after doing some pricing of fittings and air line, plus time spent making hardlines.
I'm going for braided lines, rated to 1000psi max working pressure, 6000psi burst or leak pressures. same as a hydraulic system would run.
I'm going to buy the fittings, and braided line separate, and make them my self.
As it only a tiny bit more expensive than dot approved line. which has a 300psi max working pressure.
So it should hopefully be a complete leak free system. rated to over 1000psi when finished!

Edited September 5, 2014 by c00k

[Bealieboy 1,625]

Sounds technical but I understand the end result. Nice 1!!!

[c00k 435]

It not to hard mate, once you get your head around the wiring.

All the controllers need to be linked to the same output. (The manifold) So effectively the controllers are connected together. So when you press the switches in the front to raise the car, the power will go down the wire and to the manifold, but as there are other controller linked in to the same source, the power can also go back down the wire connected to the other controller. Making the current go the wrong way in to other controller. This is a reverse polarity.

This can cause PCD boards, and electricical components to get damaged and broken.

So a simple way to stop this from happening is to use some rectivifing diodes, as current can only flow throught them in one direction. Stoping any reverse polarity. They also have other uses, but this is one.

Edited August 30, 2014 by c00k

[c00k 435]

Braided line and fittings turned up,
there the same as you would use for either track type fuel systems, hydraulics, nos, etc.

there abit over kill for air ride, but they should never start to leak, and are very robust.
It also means that nothing is using a push to connect type fitting, and could potentially pop off.
so I will have much more confidence throwing it into corners and not worrying

 

 

 

You push the braided line in to the one end of the fitting,

to do this you need to clamp the end of the fitting in a vice, and really force the braided hose inside while twisting it downwards.
then that screws on the other male part of the fitting, making a nice air light seal.
then a convertor to 1/4 NPT so it will fit my manifold, and air bags.

 

 

That's the 2 rear lines for both rear bags to the manifold,
Plus a smaller hose to go from air tank to the manifold.
I need to make a couple more longer ones to go to the front.
and one to from the check valve to the compressor.

I'm also making an automatic drain valve, so I never need to lift up the false floor and manually drain the tanks.

I will just push a button, and it will drain any water out of the tanks for me

Edited September 5, 2014 by c00k

[DanChave 98]

I love the sound of the purge button, great thinking

[c00k 435]

Got all the air ride linked back up with the braided hoses and hit a few local meets.

[c00k 435]

Then I bought another one of these, so I now have 2. I'm going to re-build them and use the best from both. All new bearings, seals and new high tensile nuts and bolt.

[DanChave 98]

great pics

[michael5556 247]

Looks good, how come you went for accuair instead of v2? Just out of interest.

[c00k 435]

Cheers guys, much appreciation for the love

Reason I went for accuair was I only wanted the manifold, I didn't want the whole management, I have my own I made, and already installed in car.

Plus I can add more and fiddle how I please as I made the system

My iPhone controller is almost ready, been alpha and beta testing it for awhile now. Complete written code my self. it runs on a raspberry Pi.

Plus V2 comes with pre pressed fittings, so if you damage or get a leaking fitting, it needs to be sent away to get a new fitting pressed back in. You can't replace them your self.

With the new accuair manifold I have it's the new threaded type, so you have your own choice of fittings, and if one gets damaged or starts to leak I can replace it at home, not need to send it away.

For that reason I went for fully braided hoses, which I can screw them direct in to the manifold.

I don't use any Push to connect type fittings, as they can pop off under heavy load. It's rare they pop off, but it can happen. I've seen it happen to other people car. And if they pop off that's your car hitting the deck at what ever speed your driving, as the air release if a matter of seconds.

I now much more confidence in the threaded type fittings, as they are never able to pop off. With charging it soon, and wanting to getting more power I want as much confidence in my set up as possible, so I can drive it as hard as possible

I have new soild adjustable top mounts going on soon, I'm going to buy some soild engine mounts, front was polybushed not long ago, and rear will be getting poly'd over winter

Edited October 23, 2014 by c00k

[DanChave 98]

Loving the forethought that has gone into your air ride setup! What struts are you using again?

[c00k 435]

Cheers buddy, well it my 3rd setup. One on a pervious golf, and 2 versions on my VR. Plus I've helped afew mates out it on there cars.

I use bag over coilover on the front, with custom made plates.

Airlift universal chapman struts on the rear, with a mk3 mount welded and strengthen on to bottom.

Made them my self

There is a DIY in the brakes & suspension section I wrote

Edited October 25, 2014 by c00k

[DanChave 98]

Ah, awesome, I'll have to check that out! How much do you think it has cost you i comparison to an Airlift kit on V2? 

[c00k 435]

Loads of work has been going on with the supercharger,

Loads and loads of research has been done.

No help from the company who took over Z-engineering... RUF.

There meant to not speak very good English anyway, as there a Swedish company.

So I found almost all the information I need by looking in to bearings,

Different types of bearings, how different types of bearing work. How to fit and remove bearings safely, etc.

I found some of it out by watching training videos on youtube, that bearing companies had uploaded.

This is the Video for the main bearings, that run inside the supercharger,

They run on the main shaft, connected to the impeller.

They're called "Contact Angle Bearings". and must be run in a pair!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_vamfXL1fU

The Large pulley that runs on a separate shaft and bearings.

But these are a different type called "Deep Grove Bearings"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfLV5hwcMkw

After gaining knowledge on loads of different types of bearings, and working out what type was inside of the supercharger.

I went about taking it apart. Ready to refurbished and rebuilt

I Started off with the tensioner bracket. As the supercharger mounts where the standard tensioner mounts.

So the standard tensioner needs to be removed, and another tensioner in a different location used.

Removed both pulleys.

Marked the spacers, as there both different.

The pulleys seem in quite good condition and both span freely with out anyway play,

But I was unsure of age. so I removed the sealed covers off very carefully,

and left the bearing to soak in some pure alcohol for about 20-30 mins

After removing all the dirt and old grease from inside the pulley bearings, using pure alcohol and compressed air to clean them out.

I heated some chain saw oil in an old can, and left the pulleys to soak over night.

After leaving the bearings to soak, I removed them from the oil bath, and packed them fully of high temperature grease.

and replaced the sealed covers. I didn't get a photo though.

New high tensile nuts and bolts for pulleys.

12.9 high tensile M10, 60mm length with allen key head. 10.0 high tensile M10 nut with nyloc.

I then set about polishing up the bracket while I had it all striped apart

Not the best photo, but only one I have.

Finally built it back up with refurbished pulleys, new nuts and bolts, and original spacers and washers.

Loads more coming soon!

Edited October 30, 2014 by c00k

[DanChave 98]

great stuff

[c00k 435]

Large Pulley.

 

Clamped it's shaft in a vice so I could remove it, and replace the bearings.

You can see the bearings don't look the best, so I decided to replace them,

And they didn't seem to run very smooth.

 

 

 

The old philips head bolt was crap, and rounded slight when removing.
So I replaced that with a new high tensile allen key version.

M8, Countersunk allen key head, 25mm length, but I had to chop it down,

as it's about 17mm long if I remember right, so it needed cutting down a tiny bit.

 

 

 

 

The shaft just pulled out of the large pulley. (not in photo)

I removed the old bearings and spacer, with an internal bearing puller.
17mm internal bearing puller is needed. You could tap them out if you wanted,
as there old bearings, and going to be replaced, but I lent a bearing puller so it was easier.

 

 

 

 

Once the bearing were removed they had a code stamped on outside ring,

But it was facing inwards on both bearings, so you couldn't see them until removed. Sneaky!
So after a tiny bit of research I found out who made the bearings and where to get them from.
"SKF 6203-2Z / C3GJN"  High temperature bearing - OD:40mm ID:17mm Width:12mm.

This also confirmed my earlier research that they were deep grooved bearings inside the large pulley. 

 

 

 

 

 

Fitted the new bearing with original spacer inbetween.
To do this I heated the pulley, but didn't heat the bearings.
Got the pulley boiling hot, using a heat gun on 650degees, and getting it very hot!
I had to wear welding gloves to touch it. This makes the pulley expand.

So the bearings slide straight in without hardly pressure or damage to the bearings,

No hitting, bashing, or heavy press required. 
Made sure they were sat perfectly straight.
Once cooled the bearings would have a nice tight fit.
Then tested fitted it all back together.

 

[DanChave 98]

Braided line and fittings turned up,

there the same as you would use for either track type fuel systems, hydraulics, nos, etc.

there abit over kill for air ride, but they should never start to leak, and are very robust.

It also means that nothing is using a push to connect type fitting, and could potentially pop off.

so I will have much more confidence throwing it into corners and not worrying

 

 

 

You push the braided line in to the one end of the fitting,

to do this you need to clamp the end of the fitting in a vice, and really force the braided hose inside while twisting it downwards.

then that screws on the other male part of the fitting, making a nice air light seal.

then a convertor to 1/4 NPT so it will fit my manifold, and air bags.

 

 

That's the 2 rear lines for both rear bags to the manifold,

Plus a smaller hose to go from air tank to the manifold.

I need to make a couple more longer ones to go to the front.

and one to from the check valve to the compressor.

I'm also making an automatic drain valve, so I never need to lift up the false floor and manually drain the tanks.

I will just push a button, and it will drain any water out of the tanks for me

 What size are the -AN fittings, braided lines, and the conversion piece? I'm looking to start building an air setup for my cabby

[c00k 435]

AN6 fittings

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=360591782733

AN6 braided hose

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=150984232448

AN6 to 1/4" NPT converter

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=150666671799

It work out more expensive then D.O.T approved line and fittings, but braided lines are a lot more robust, and have a burst pressure of 6000psi. Where D.O.T approved has a burst pressure of 500psi.

Main reason for me was they don't use push to connect fittings.

If you want anymore info on air just give me a shout.

Edited November 8, 2014 by c00k