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Golf Mk3 VR6 on Air - Supercharger.


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Couple of photos from last time it was out to keep build alive. 

First photo of my Two VR's together.  Not the best photo, but I had both of them out on weekend, and had to take one     Many more photos of these pair coming when the nicer weathe

I tired to hand paint my rear VR6 badge red, with a small artist brush. I went for hand painting at 1st as I wanted to keep the black outter edge. And didn't want to mask it all up. But it came out s

Got the ECU back from Stealth.

521A8DB5-44D0-4807-A31C-452ECF752354_zps

Got the spark plugs they recommended FR7KPP33+

Also gone back to a 3 bar fuel regulator. So I'm running 339cc@3bar. There also EV6 injectors which are meant to atomise and spray better than the oringal EV1's. Engine is now running super sweet. :D best its ever ran I think!

Got my recirc valve fitted, and changed some of the piping.

Hidden most of it, but can just make it out in this photo.

5D876519-4566-446D-8795-2867C83B25E3_zps

Moved the MAF before the charger, ordered new air filter. As when I moved then MAF, it made my BCM CDA filter to long. So ordered a new shorter one.

Few photos of the car it's self :D

61A6692A-58AE-4A94-BFDB-E42AEB0BCF3C_zps

To low for VR splitter, running my US spitter.

Bonrath lower vents fitted.

New anniversary red front GTI badge.

New anniversary number plate surround with red pin strip.

5D7299AA-F944-4E41-BC15-B2D4DD6BBBE9_zps

09A3C60A-79FA-4BD1-BE81-BD595F1E03A8_zps

With the mods I've done I can drive about 2-3mm higher than this if I want, with almost full lock, and nothing catching or touching. But at a press of a button I can raise it to full height, or any height I want :D

Air system had been 100% leak free since I fitted the accuair and braided hoses with AN fittings last year. And not missed a beat. So well happy with that.

Also been thinking about reverse fitting my wheels. It would give it abit more of the Motorsport look. And it would give me slight more tuck on the front. As it can go lower, but it's sat on the lips of wheels.

Edited by c00k
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Got the ECU back from Stealth.

521A8DB5-44D0-4807-A31C-452ECF752354_zps

Got the spark plugs they recommended FR7KPP33+

Also gone back to a 3 bar fuel regulator. So I'm running 339cc@3bar. There also EV6 injectors which are meant to atomise and spray better than the oringal EV1's. Engine is now running super sweet. :D best its ever ran I think!

Got my recirc valve fitted, and changed some of the piping.

Hidden most of it, but can just make it out in this photo.

5D876519-4566-446D-8795-2867C83B25E3_zps

Moved the MAF before the charger, ordered new air filter. As when I moved then MAF, it made my BCM CDA filter to long. So ordered a new shorter one.

Few photos of the car it's self :D

61A6692A-58AE-4A94-BFDB-E42AEB0BCF3C_zps

To low for VR splitter, running my US spitter.

Bonrath lower vents fitted.

New anniversary red front GTI badge.

New anniversary number plate surround with red pin strip.

5D7299AA-F944-4E41-BC15-B2D4DD6BBBE9_zps

09A3C60A-79FA-4BD1-BE81-BD595F1E03A8_zps

With the mods I've done I can drive about 2-3mm higher than this if I want, with almost full lock, and nothing catching or touching. But at a press of a button I can raise it to full height, or any height I want :D

Air system had been 100% leak free since I fitted the accuair and braided hoses with AN fittings last year. And not missed a beat. So well happy with that.

Also been thinking about reverse fitting my wheels. It would give it abit more of the Motorsport look. And it would give me slight more tuck on the front. As it can go lower, but it's sat on the lips of wheels.

so the injectors are 339 cc ? That's what I will need I guess I moved my map before my charger like you and it run a lot better. Edited by ky_uk
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I tired to hand paint my rear VR6 badge red, with a small artist brush.

I went for hand painting at 1st as I wanted to keep the black outter edge. And didn't want to mask it all up. But it came out shit and I didn't like it.

So I lightly sanded it back again, masked it up and sprayed it instead. Took awhile to do, and was bit fiddly.

Will let the pics do the talking.

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349502D7-CD6A-439C-BDE4-EDD72EB794AF_zps

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Also did the supercharger badge. To ensure the red on both badges matched.

BF5506AF-48F0-4FEC-BC7A-F528E469F6C2_zps

F687CF56-CE93-4EC9-A035-D629CAE78B35_zps

Few edges needed tidying up a little bit.

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CAB459F7-03F5-4948-AF84-C50704194EF1_zps

Edited by c00k
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Started to make a metal gearbox relay, to replace the crap standard platic one.

It also part of short shift, as the relay pin has been droped by about 14-15mm. Reducing side to side movement in the gear stick. I'm going to be making a front and back short shift soon.

The relay needed to be made on a CNC or lathe.

I don't have either of these,

But I so have a pillar drill. Haha.

So I could imitate a lathe but on a vertical axis.

Only on small items. This would be good enough to make what I wanted.

Had some 12mm metal bar that was threaded inside, already in the garage.

Used this to make the two sections. Then cut a plate for the middle.

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12mm bar I used.

5A13ABB1-8CB5-479F-9386-11F186B3D28E_zps

12mm bar in pillar drill.

230FDC08-CDCD-4B46-A0ED-5E60500F0375_zps

Marked and cut 1st O-ring recess. Using lathe tools, meant for wood, but they did the job.

You can get ones meant for turning metal. But I had these given to me. So use them, as I had them free. Took a steady hand but work fine.

C8CEBF4E-00C9-4157-9064-1D79D427D56F_zps

Checking next to original relay.

A3B2E96C-91FA-4250-A315-6A26122F5A2B_zps

Next part, the pin that sits inside the end of the gearbox cable. This took awhile to turn, plus make sure it was nice and straight and smooth. Checking with digital calipers to make sure correct width.

FE763675-8F92-4FBC-BD78-642E001A06E2_zps

5705FB61-4100-4B39-9E3A-6B58D438E0EC_zps

Both parts, after a quick sand and tidy up.

The recesses on the end small section are for a circlip.

24680CEF-87D1-4660-B708-53A2DAFCB36C_zps

Marked up the plate for the centre section.

From of some 2.5mm sheet metal I had left over from my supercharger plates. Drilled and tapped the plate.

4C296D99-3C29-4986-8DA5-7EA59772A0E4_zps

Cut the plate out and bolted it all together.

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After a quick polish on the side that will be visible once fitted.

Still needs abit more work before finished.

Edited by c00k
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Cheers guys,

I do like to make much as I can if possible,

I enjoy it :)

as I don't work with cars as my day job,

I don't get bored or sick of working on them.

As it only in the evening and weekends.

And can be done at my own pace.

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which size did you go for and how did you feed the loom through it?

Conduit I used has a split down the back, so you just slide / clip it over the loom.

The size I can't remember sorry, but I just bought a kit on eBay, of various sizes.

Something abit like this.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=201107759252&globalID=EBAY-GB

Edited by c00k
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  • 4 weeks later...

After driving with the charger fitted and mapped for awhile.

On long runs I find the temps start to creep up.

So I bought a different rad. It's from an Audi S6 but is an uprated S6 alloy rad.

It's much bigger then my top fill rad I had before, and is bigger than a standard VR rad aswell.

C59D8BB9-CE38-4C8F-BE6C-AEE2D0DFAA74_zps

Reason I went for an Audi S6 is. It's the biggest I could fit between the headlights, even with custom fitting. It has the same size inlet and outlet ports as a standard VR. So standard pipe work would fit. Also the fan switch is on the same side as VR.

After a bit of chopping I got it fitted. And got the pipe work linked back up.

6D89A520-9006-4A71-BEDC-4C04D6815A1B_zps

I will be changing some of the coolant pipe work very soon, and putting a custom expansion tank in. Instead of a top fill rad.

I've also bought a low temp thermostate 75 degrees. and a low temp fan switch 76 degrees from Germany.

I'm unsure which fan switch to run at the mo, but after test runs, plus some data logging I'll see which the engine prefers.

I've also got a new water pump as the bearing started to make a tiny bit of noise in my other one.

New crack pipe, few new seals.

Plus a brand new standard oil cooler.

BECB4018-0560-4CA8-A531-DBC340A661BE_zps

I'm also going to be fitting a sandwage plate and external oil cooler. But also replace the standard oil cooler at the same time. Still waiting for sandwage plate to be delivered.

Gave the old rad a clean and flush off the car, then linked old rad back up, disconnected and bypassed the heater matrix, removed thermostat. And flushed the engine using a white vinegar and water solution, about 4-6 ratio. Ran engine for about an hour. Drained and flushed through with loads of fresh water. Filled with hot water and left to cool, then repeated with another white vinegar and water solution flush.

After two vinegar flushes I did a neutralising flush of bicarbonate of soda and water, and ran the engine for about an hour again, drained, flushed with loads of fresh water and filled with hot water and left to cool.

Once cooled drained the system for final time, I took apart the coolant system and started to replace the parts.

Replaced water pump 1st,

Old water pump seemed fine once removed no play no noise, so it mite of been one of the tensioner pulleys making a tiny bit of noise, as there next to water pump on my set up.

Anyway replace water pump will keep old one as spare. Will look into getting new tension pulleys.

Replaced crack pipe, old one was fine and didn't leak, but they become brittle so replaced anyway, old one has only been in they 2 maybe 3 years max lol. I replaced it not that long ago. Should really get an alloy one at some point.

Cleaned all inside the thermostat housing while it was off the car. With white vinegar and a soft scouring pad. Removed all brown marks and any crap that had built on inside, looked almost brand new afterwards.

Fitted 75 degree low temp thermostat in housing, fitted new seals, and got it fitted back on car.

Plenty more to do today.

Edited by c00k
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Yeah man, I have a garage behind my car port, but it has to much stuff in it to keep the car in there was well, so I built a car port in front of garage to work in and keep VR dry.

But the garage has power plus I can take parts off and work on them and keep all my tools and spares in garage, so it work quite well.

Edited by c00k
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  • 4 weeks later...

Sandwage plate, with thermostat. Plus metal cover cap.

716E3132-73E7-4C4B-A3A8-DA04A035B1E4_zps

Gave them a sand and polish before fitting it on the car, but haven't got a photo yet.

Mounted the oil cooler so it would sit in the side vent of the bumper, wasn't the easiest place to mount it.

I had to customise the front crossmember, make some brackets, and customise the oil cooler slightly.

But after all that I got it mounted where it needed to be.

Also made some ducting / panels. so no air can escape around the edges.

It's all forced through the oil cooler, not being lost around the edges.

23F48727-7478-47C9-8DB9-B309A33E7728_zps

Took it all back apart to paint it.

A23FDBFE-62BB-4469-9FC9-77A62B6AE7A9_zps

Got it mounted back on to car after painting.

D014F867-BE9C-4A6D-8000-3155477FCECB_zps

With the bumper fitted,

E9130B58-0AA1-4C93-BA73-5F5481A0C9E9_zps

Only problem I can now only run one bonrath vent, not the two on both sides.

Made some custom braided lines, using AN-10 braided hose and fittings. Fitted the sandwage plate, and got everything linked up and working.

Sorry for poor quailty photos, I'm down to phone at the mo for a camera.

Edited by c00k
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