Golf Mk3 VR6 on Air - Supercharger.

[c00k 435]

cheers buddy,

if you still need any info on relocating stuff let me know, i only just saw this lol

[c00k 435]

Few updates

Had some custom silicone pipes made up.

Main difference was the deleted pipes for the expansion tank, you can see where i have deleted them on the OEM pipe.

Plus slight wider ends on the rad pipes, as I had to stretch the OEM pipe on to my top fill rad, so I had them make the silicone pipe to correct I.D to fit the rad.

haven't got a pic of them fitted on car yet.

Got annoyed with tiny bit of rust starting to show back through on the counter weight on the gear box

So sand blasted all of the rust and crap off and painted with a high build primer, sanded back and smoothed it all out and re-painted it!

hopefully no rust will come back through this time.

didn't get any pic's of it in primer or sanding...

but it was high build primer, 800grit wet, 1200grit wet, 2000 grit wet, tiny bit of knifing putty, more primer, then 2000 grit wet again..

then on to colour coat:)

Then painted the bonnet hinges, as you can see the unpainted side when the bonnet is off.

Could of removed the hinges, but there also held in with seam sealer, so instead of cutting it all off, smoothing it out, and having to re-paint more.

So I just painted the ends of them on the car much easier!

Before sanding and painting, this is hidden when bonnet is fitted, but when it off it's visible.

hopefully if i fit the bonnet carefully it wont scratch to much.

Cleaned with thinners, then sanded slightly then on to high build primer.

2000 grit wet sanded before colour coat

New mirrors, I freshly painted.

New bonnet with smoothed washer jet, my mated did this in his booth for me.

Plus I'm painting the front bumper this week

[geo7087 11]

Love this!! How did you find bleeding your Rad? I leep really struggling with mine! And those coolant pipes look great!

can you PM me some details about both them and your induction pipework? Exactly what I'm after for mine

[c00k 435]

Cheers buddy
Lift the front of the car up on a jack so the top of the rad and fill point is highest in the system, higher than the heater matrix, and make sure you have the blowers inside switched on.
leave the cap off and run if for awhile. make sure the water doesn't drop to much, but also don't over fill the rad. before it gets to hot, put the cap back on, and open the bleed nipple on the opposite side of the rad to the filling cap. only need to open it a tiny bit, so it just lets the air out, and not pissing out water. run the car for a good 30mins, close bleed nipple. take down off jack, job done


The company i used already made VR6 hoses, so i took there picture of the vr6 hoses from there website, highlighted red the pipes i wanted deleted in paint (well photoshop but could use paint easy) and emailed the picture to them asking could they make them.

The induction pipe is 76mm pipe, 90 bend welded on to 2 straight lengths, then cut the straight down to size, the size i can't remember sorry, as i just measures it on the car, marked the pipe and cut it. i never write them down anywhere.
The hardest part was the MAF flange, it was custom cnced for me by a friend.
The silicone joiner is 120 degrees, not 135 degrees. there's only 2 companies I could find that sell 120 degrees, samco and viper performance.

hope thats some help for you dude

[geo7087 11]

All of that is a huge help

Actually got the rad bled at the weekend in the end using a similar technique but no doubt I'll be doing it again along the line so thats great info!

Thanks

[c00k 435]

Few little updates, mainly just been driving it about, hitting a few local shows and meets lately....

I changed all my switches and dials to red leds ages ago, but there were 2 things that still bugged me,

the heater controls and the cigarette lighter.

So I got some mk3.5 cabby red inserts for the heater controls.

and new red bulb for it. Plus a red bevel for the cigarette lighter. It's for a 28mm hole, if anyone else wants one.

Standard heater controls with switches removed.

Simple Swap for red version.

I also ripped it all apart and replaced the tiny bulb hidden in the middle of it, i also removed the green filter surrounding the bulb.

that was boring so didn't get a photo.

At same time I replaced the bevel, kept the original cigarette lighter. As it worked fine, and looked like it had much better electrics that the after market one.

Red Mk3 Anniversary seat belts. Got them for a very good price

none of this £120-150 stupid ebay prices!

Old black belts

Simple swap over.

Also fitted Mk3 black cabby sun visors, TT black middle sun visor. Plus i've had the TT interior mirror for awhile.

on there way to me are...

Black grab handles,

Black rear interior lights out of a US Passat GLX

Black sun glasses holder

But I'm struggling to find a black front interior light with a black sunroof switch.

I can find them without the sunroof switch but none with it yet.

Plus i'm going to dye the roof lining black soon.

Few photo's from local meet last weekend.

[Daverse 175]

Looks pretty badass. Keep it up!

[Lukey. 381]

Looking good, the seatbelts go with the whole black and red theme well.

If you are dyeing the headliner I can recommend this stuff http://www.fabricspray.co.uk/shop/upholstery-spray-paint/midnight-black its a spray on dye, I used 4 cans on mine and its still looking good about 2 years on. It also dyed the sunroof blind and seal going round the sunroof exactly the same colour.

I had no luck with the sunroof interior light either, U-pol satin black paint is a perfect match to the cabrio visors and handles, I did the light, the motor cover and the sunroof vent with it and its perfect.

The only bad point for the spray dye I can say is it changes the feel off the material to be kind of tacky (as in a little bit sticky) but after a few days it lessens more and more, plus its on the headliner, you don't go touching it do you.

[c00k 435]

cheers guys,
I have another idea for the interior light. and sunroof switch.
I could use the old corrado sunroof switch separate to the light, and then use a black interior light out of a corrado, passat or T4 without sunroof switch, and theres loads of them about.
Just need to change the plug on the loom, and find a location for it. Already have the switch, butIi want to try and find a standard mk3 one.
I've got a mates in America, Poland, and Canada on the look out for me. So fingers crossed one will be found

I'm going to vinyl wrap the sunroof motor cover and sunroof vent satin black, as i painted stuff before in my GTI, and didn't like how it would ware, tiny little bit's sometimes scrape off when touched and stuff. I can be quite picky when it come to some things.

cheers for the recommendation
I'm planning on using black carpet dye, and applying it with a spray gun and compressor, as I should be able to get a better more even flow with it.
you can buy it in 5L bottles, lots of detailers use it to covering stains and stuff in carpets.

[Lukey. 381]

I can be quite picky when it come to some things. .

You obviously haven't read my build, I am THE most picky perfectionist person around lol

[c00k 435]

no i haven't read it mate,

got a link?

[c00k 435]

Few more pics from when the weather was nice!
Can't wait for next show season to start, and the weather to be nicer again!!

 

 

 

 

Also got a high line hand brake center console.
(highline VR left, Standard VR right)




Simple straight swap over

 

 

 

 

 

My 2nd battery for my compressor and air ride stuff was never the best.
So I bought a decent dry cell battery, should be more than up to the job!

It's from a largeish boat lol but it a very well know brand, 12v, dry cell, deep cycle.

Worth about £350-360 brand new, i got 2nd hand one from mate for £60.
He removed it because he was selling the boat, and chuck a shitter battery on it.
But when he bought his new boat it had an even better battery.
So offered it to me well happy!






Fitted in the boot nicely. just fits under my false floor by a few mm.
Made some terminal cover just in case. So nothing can touch them now. (not in pic)
 

 

 

 

 

Also got a complete under tray for the engine bay.
It's from a mk3 TDi, and will need trimming around my VR sump. It's a VW OE part

It's not for protection from scraping, and speed bumps as it's only made from plastic.
it's more to keep my engine bay abit cleaner, and dryer

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some US parts have arrived

US splitter, Fan cover, and diagnostic port cover!



 

Will get some better pics, once they've been re-conditioned and fitted to car on the weekend.


Plus over the winter it will be getting a new subframe and wishbones, and they will be fully poly bushed.
With a few extra tweeks to subframe and wishbones. The hub with be getting some electrolysis treatment for removing rust, then powdercoated.
Maybe a new rear axel as well if i have time

[Lozi 22]

Awesome stuff! Really great work your doing on this it's superb!

[Lukey. 381]

I now have the full collection of front and rear undertrays and apart from keeping it cleaner as you say, the engine also gets up to running temp a bit quicker and no word of a lie on a motorway drive it uses a bit less fuel due to the more flat underside.

[michael5556 247]

Nice! Looking forward too watching this progress over winter

[c00k 435]

Test fitted US splitter on spare bumper I had,
as a few of the tabs need trimming to make it fit a UK bumper nicely.

 

 

Then fitted it on to car. Can also see I've darken my front indicators.

 

 

 

 

Also had a look at the radiator cover.. spot the problem?

 

It's sitting on the cap of my top fill radiator on the right hand side.

Unsure if I should cut a hole in it for the cap on the top fill, dont really like that idea
or should lower I the rad slightly, and fix the radiator cover with some quick release fixings, or maybe hinges from underneath, and have it covering the cap on the top fill.
 

Edited November 19, 2013 by c00k

[c00k 435]

Fitted the rad cover

 

 

Did it by removing the existing lip, as US models have a different shaped slam panel, and the rad cover doesn't fit UK models nicely without modification.

Plus I have already strengthen underneath from when I fitted the rad, and had trim away some of it.

 

Lowering the rad to totally hide the filler cap was out the question.
after i looked it would of made it sit below the front cross member, and thats no good.
I've raided all the engine and gear box, and few other things, to sit above the sub frame and front cross member,,,
So it meant either having the cap sitting flush on top, or half poking through....
 

So I place the cap on top to see what it looked like.

Didn't like it, so that meant it had to sit half way through.
I've cut the hole nicely, and have started to bevel the edge. it not finished yet, that's why there no photo.

but it looks much better will get photo soon.

R32 wishbone bushes have been ordered, new drop linking orders. new ball joints ordered, new track rod ends ordered. new wheel bearings. wishbones and hubs will be coming off soon, and either getting swapped for new ones, or cleaned up nicely, and re-conditioned. They don't looks to bad on car, so I will see once there off.

Also making rasberry pi air ride controller, but more about that later
it's being kept hush hush for awhile.

Edited December 14, 2013 by c00k

[c00k 435]

Been awhile since my last up date,
But stuff has still been happening

Fitted all new ball joints, track rods, lower arms, bushes etc, also replaced the matrix, but i didn't get any photos of this as i was doing it early in the year and the weather was crappy, so couldn't be assed lol. No one likes working out in the cold and wet.

Finished fitting the US rad cover, and tweaking it's location.

 

 

Didn't like the strut brace mounts black, so colour coded them red.

 

Old bonnet catch,


Re-condition bonnet catch and support colour coded black, it's not finished being fixed in to it correct position in the pic.

Some of it will scratch off where the bonnet pin goes through, but looks much better.

 

 

 

I've also been trying to fill all the holes in the slam panel,

Where thing have been de-mounted from, or deleted.
I don't want to totally smooth it all out,
I want to keep the oem look.

There's a gap above the headlights that I've never liked.
So i had to make something to cover it.
again i didn't want it smoothed in to the slam panel and head lights.
as it might crack when closing the bonnet with abit of force.
So it will be removable and it's own separate panel.

This is the gap,

 

 

 

Started off by covering around where i was going to be working

 

 

1st. a layer of mesh, to make the shape ... 2nd. covered it in some material wadding, and then covered it in resin.

 

 

 

3rd. 3 layers of fiberglass tissue and resin. all pre cut to size and shape needed.

 

 

 

 

4th. trimmed all the excess fiberglass, removed panel, removed mesh from inside. then sanded and shaped fiber glass until almost totally smooth.

 

 

 

5th. a layer of fine body filler.... then removed and sanded

 

 

6th. several layers of filler primer, painted while removed from car, lightly sanded between every couple of layers.

 

 

Before colour coat. I Will do the final colour coat using my spray gun, and colour coded paint.
I don't mind these being gloss black as they will sit next to the head light covers which are also gloss black.

 

 

Can see the one fitted on this pic.

 

 

Made a bung of where the old air con rad connection used to be.

again it's removable, so hopefully wont crack when closing the bonnet.
it has a lip underneath on the one end, and a lip all the way around the top,

 

Edited May 8, 2014 by c00k

[c00k 435]

small bit of detailing on oil cap, and coolant cap.

 

 

 

 

bought some wheel bags, genuine VW 

depending if i'm running my summer or winter wheels.
 

 

 

shame they don't make them in red and black

 

 

 

Some new audio on order, should be here by the weekend.
and a few additions to the air ride coming from US soon

Edited May 7, 2014 by c00k

[Surreyvr6 199]

Love this vr, one of my favs! Was thinking I haven't seen an update for a while the other day! Good work!! Don't leave it so long between updates lol

Sent from your mums iPhone using Tapatalk

[Lukey. 381]

I couldn't do without the holes in the slam panel, they hold my spammers and screwdrivers when I'm working on the car lol

[c00k 435]

cheers guys

I have a magnetic tray I usually sit on the scuttle panel to hold tools,
I did used to use the slam panel lol, think every does.
But on the odd occasion they can fall off or fall through,

and if it was to mark the paint on the chassis legs i wouldn't be happy lol

Edited May 8, 2014 by c00k

[c00k 435]

I bought some new rear speaker, as I found my system never had as much bass as I wanted.





They will be going in the same place as the normal rear ones, but not fixed to the door card,
as I'm going to be amping them, and they would kick to much, and make the door card vibrate and move to much,



So I had to made an enclosure to hold them in to the rear quarters.

I had already sound deadened the rear quarters previously.









I made the front panel out of this material, it's a very dense foam/plastics board.
reason i went for this was... it's bendable by heat, and sets quickly meaning you can almost hold it in place while it sets.
then i could make the panel out of one piece.



cut the panel down, and bent the top 90 using a heat gun, and copper bar.



Refitted the panel, and shaped some more.



Refitted door card, to mark position of speaker



Removed door card, cut the hole for speaker, and sand-waged it between the two MDF rings i had previously made
Drivers side

[c00k 435]

Passenger side





Refitted door car to test position of speakers

I then full sound deadened the rear of the panels, but i didn't get a photo.

 

 

Made up the the amp and speaker wires, not all of them in photo



Wired up the amp in the boot, still need to make a panel to hold the amp in place in the boot. 1200watt, wont be using all the power. mainly for the low pass filter. and frequency adjustment.



Cut the whole for the bass port.
Fixed the panel in place with self tapping screws and large washer, and covered all the edges with sound deadened.





Refitted door card for final tine.





Cant even see it with the cover on


And they sound brilliant, as good as a 10" sub easily, they kick like two little beasts. plus all the sound deadening helped alot.

There 400watt rms each, 800 watt peak, Mid bass drivers,

set up on a low pass filter, with a subsonic filter at approx 35Hz.
 

Edited May 11, 2014 by c00k

[Surreyvr6 199]

Good work!

Sent from your mums iPhone using Tapatalk