Golf Mk3 VR6 on Air - Supercharger.

[c00k 435]

Cheers buddy, yeah it's worth it in the end.

Lots of hours and late night all pays off once it done, and you can enjoy driving it!

[c00k 435]

Got the ECU back from Stealth.

Got the spark plugs they recommended FR7KPP33+

Also gone back to a 3 bar fuel regulator. So I'm running 339cc@3bar. There also EV6 injectors which are meant to atomise and spray better than the oringal EV1's. Engine is now running super sweet. best its ever ran I think!

Got my recirc valve fitted, and changed some of the piping.

Hidden most of it, but can just make it out in this photo.

Moved the MAF before the charger, ordered new air filter. As when I moved then MAF, it made my BCM CDA filter to long. So ordered a new shorter one.

Few photos of the car it's self

To low for VR splitter, running my US spitter.

Bonrath lower vents fitted.

New anniversary red front GTI badge.

New anniversary number plate surround with red pin strip.

With the mods I've done I can drive about 2-3mm higher than this if I want, with almost full lock, and nothing catching or touching. But at a press of a button I can raise it to full height, or any height I want

Air system had been 100% leak free since I fitted the accuair and braided hoses with AN fittings last year. And not missed a beat. So well happy with that.

Also been thinking about reverse fitting my wheels. It would give it abit more of the Motorsport look. And it would give me slight more tuck on the front. As it can go lower, but it's sat on the lips of wheels.

Edited August 11, 2015 by c00k

[ky_uk 304]

Got the ECU back from Stealth.

Got the spark plugs they recommended FR7KPP33+

Also gone back to a 3 bar fuel regulator. So I'm running 339cc@3bar. There also EV6 injectors which are meant to atomise and spray better than the oringal EV1's. Engine is now running super sweet. best its ever ran I think!

Got my recirc valve fitted, and changed some of the piping.

Hidden most of it, but can just make it out in this photo.

Moved the MAF before the charger, ordered new air filter. As when I moved then MAF, it made my BCM CDA filter to long. So ordered a new shorter one.

Few photos of the car it's self

To low for VR splitter, running my US spitter.

Bonrath lower vents fitted.

New anniversary red front GTI badge.

New anniversary number plate surround with red pin strip.

With the mods I've done I can drive about 2-3mm higher than this if I want, with almost full lock, and nothing catching or touching. But at a press of a button I can raise it to full height, or any height I want

Air system had been 100% leak free since I fitted the accuair and braided hoses with AN fittings last year. And not missed a beat. So well happy with that.

Also been thinking about reverse fitting my wheels. It would give it abit more of the Motorsport look. And it would give me slight more tuck on the front. As it can go lower, but it's sat on the lips of wheels.

so the injectors are 339 cc ? That's what I will need I guess I moved my map before my charger like you and it run a lot better. Edited August 11, 2015 by ky_uk

[c00k 435]

PM sent about injectors...

[c00k 435]

Laying frame!!

On 17's, with anit-roll bar still in there.

Nothing touching or binding either

New rear strut brace fitted,

Plus rear polybush top mounts.

Rear dampers adjusted to last but one hardest setting.

Edited September 13, 2015 by c00k

[c00k 435]

I tired to hand paint my rear VR6 badge red, with a small artist brush.

I went for hand painting at 1st as I wanted to keep the black outter edge. And didn't want to mask it all up. But it came out shit and I didn't like it.

So I lightly sanded it back again, masked it up and sprayed it instead. Took awhile to do, and was bit fiddly.

Will let the pics do the talking.

Also did the supercharger badge. To ensure the red on both badges matched.

Few edges needed tidying up a little bit.

Edited August 18, 2015 by c00k

[ky_uk 304]

Really nice touch that

[c00k 435]

Started to make a metal gearbox relay, to replace the crap standard platic one.

It also part of short shift, as the relay pin has been droped by about 14-15mm. Reducing side to side movement in the gear stick. I'm going to be making a front and back short shift soon.

The relay needed to be made on a CNC or lathe.

I don't have either of these,

But I so have a pillar drill. Haha.

So I could imitate a lathe but on a vertical axis.

Only on small items. This would be good enough to make what I wanted.

Had some 12mm metal bar that was threaded inside, already in the garage.

Used this to make the two sections. Then cut a plate for the middle.

12mm bar I used.

12mm bar in pillar drill.

Marked and cut 1st O-ring recess. Using lathe tools, meant for wood, but they did the job.

You can get ones meant for turning metal. But I had these given to me. So use them, as I had them free. Took a steady hand but work fine.

Checking next to original relay.

Next part, the pin that sits inside the end of the gearbox cable. This took awhile to turn, plus make sure it was nice and straight and smooth. Checking with digital calipers to make sure correct width.

Both parts, after a quick sand and tidy up.

The recesses on the end small section are for a circlip.

Marked up the plate for the centre section.

From of some 2.5mm sheet metal I had left over from my supercharger plates. Drilled and tapped the plate.

Cut the plate out and bolted it all together.

After a quick polish on the side that will be visible once fitted.

Still needs abit more work before finished.

Edited August 24, 2015 by c00k

[ky_uk 304]

Your list of skills are endless, you never cease to amaze me with the work you have done on this car.

[chippy 34]

Car looks stunning mate.

 

I like how you used conduit to tidy up the looms too.

 

which size did you go for and how did you feed the loom through it?

[c00k 435]

Cheers guys,

I do like to make much as I can if possible,

I enjoy it

as I don't work with cars as my day job,

I don't get bored or sick of working on them.

As it only in the evening and weekends.

And can be done at my own pace.

[ky_uk 304]

cOOk are them pulleys your selling on eBay any good ?

[c00k 435]

which size did you go for and how did you feed the loom through it?

Conduit I used has a split down the back, so you just slide / clip it over the loom.

The size I can't remember sorry, but I just bought a kit on eBay, of various sizes.

Something abit like this.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=201107759252&globalID=EBAY-GB

Edited August 25, 2015 by c00k

[c00k 435]

cOOk are them pulleys your selling on eBay any good ?

PM sent.

[chippy 34]

Conduit I used has a split down the back, so you just slide / clip it over the loom.

The size I can't remember sorry, but I just bought a kit on eBay, of various sizes.

Something abit like this.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=201107759252&globalID=EBAY-GB

 

cheers for that.

[dom.joy 87]

This is beautiful

[c00k 435]

After driving with the charger fitted and mapped for awhile.

On long runs I find the temps start to creep up.

So I bought a different rad. It's from an Audi S6 but is an uprated S6 alloy rad.

It's much bigger then my top fill rad I had before, and is bigger than a standard VR rad aswell.

Reason I went for an Audi S6 is. It's the biggest I could fit between the headlights, even with custom fitting. It has the same size inlet and outlet ports as a standard VR. So standard pipe work would fit. Also the fan switch is on the same side as VR.

After a bit of chopping I got it fitted. And got the pipe work linked back up.

I will be changing some of the coolant pipe work very soon, and putting a custom expansion tank in. Instead of a top fill rad.

I've also bought a low temp thermostate 75 degrees. and a low temp fan switch 76 degrees from Germany.

I'm unsure which fan switch to run at the mo, but after test runs, plus some data logging I'll see which the engine prefers.

I've also got a new water pump as the bearing started to make a tiny bit of noise in my other one.

New crack pipe, few new seals.

Plus a brand new standard oil cooler.

I'm also going to be fitting a sandwage plate and external oil cooler. But also replace the standard oil cooler at the same time. Still waiting for sandwage plate to be delivered.

Gave the old rad a clean and flush off the car, then linked old rad back up, disconnected and bypassed the heater matrix, removed thermostat. And flushed the engine using a white vinegar and water solution, about 4-6 ratio. Ran engine for about an hour. Drained and flushed through with loads of fresh water. Filled with hot water and left to cool, then repeated with another white vinegar and water solution flush.

After two vinegar flushes I did a neutralising flush of bicarbonate of soda and water, and ran the engine for about an hour again, drained, flushed with loads of fresh water and filled with hot water and left to cool.

Once cooled drained the system for final time, I took apart the coolant system and started to replace the parts.

Replaced water pump 1st,

Old water pump seemed fine once removed no play no noise, so it mite of been one of the tensioner pulleys making a tiny bit of noise, as there next to water pump on my set up.

Anyway replace water pump will keep old one as spare. Will look into getting new tension pulleys.

Replaced crack pipe, old one was fine and didn't leak, but they become brittle so replaced anyway, old one has only been in they 2 maybe 3 years max lol. I replaced it not that long ago. Should really get an alloy one at some point.

Cleaned all inside the thermostat housing while it was off the car. With white vinegar and a soft scouring pad. Removed all brown marks and any crap that had built on inside, looked almost brand new afterwards.

Fitted 75 degree low temp thermostat in housing, fitted new seals, and got it fitted back on car.

Plenty more to do today.

Edited September 20, 2015 by c00k

[ky_uk 304]

Your car is quality the amount of work you put into it is unbelievable, I wish I had the time at the min to catch up with mine but the misses has me decorticating the bloody house and I am the worlds slowest painter

[c00k 435]

Cheers buddy, I'm making use of the day light after work atm as well, as it will soon be gone, I can link up light in my car port if needed for the darker nights.

[ky_uk 304]

I know how you feel I am rushing myself as I work outside also.

[ky_uk 304]

I know how you feel I am rushing myself as I work outside also.

[c00k 435]

Yeah man, I have a garage behind my car port, but it has to much stuff in it to keep the car in there was well, so I built a car port in front of garage to work in and keep VR dry.

But the garage has power plus I can take parts off and work on them and keep all my tools and spares in garage, so it work quite well.

Edited September 21, 2015 by c00k

[ky_uk 304]

Yeah all my tools are in mine too lol

[c00k 435]

Sandwage plate, with thermostat. Plus metal cover cap.

Gave them a sand and polish before fitting it on the car, but haven't got a photo yet.

Mounted the oil cooler so it would sit in the side vent of the bumper, wasn't the easiest place to mount it.

I had to customise the front crossmember, make some brackets, and customise the oil cooler slightly.

But after all that I got it mounted where it needed to be.

Also made some ducting / panels. so no air can escape around the edges.

It's all forced through the oil cooler, not being lost around the edges.

Took it all back apart to paint it.

Got it mounted back on to car after painting.

With the bumper fitted,

Only problem I can now only run one bonrath vent, not the two on both sides.

Made some custom braided lines, using AN-10 braided hose and fittings. Fitted the sandwage plate, and got everything linked up and working.

Sorry for poor quailty photos, I'm down to phone at the mo for a camera.

Edited February 23, 2016 by c00k

[dom.joy 87]

That looks really tidy mate