Replacing timing chains DIY advice

[Wilsonp83 1]

Ok all, I'm finally giving in and doing my timing chains. Doing it at home as it will save a considerable amount of cash!!! Basically, I'm after any top tips or advice from those who have done it.

I have a haynes manual (which will only be good for dismantling the front end as has no VR6 info!), a Peter Russek VR6 book which seems ok and had a good look on ETKA at parts required etc.

I'm trying to strike the right balance between doing things on a budget and replacing things whilst I have the opportunity.

Things that I will be doing so far;

Timing chains, guides, tensioners, seals & bolts etc etc

Clutch (Looking to go for a fast road upgrade maybe)

Engine driven water pump (opportunity based)

Oil Cooler (slight leak)

Oil sump & seal (slight external damage)

Thermostat (opportunity)

Electrical based switches/sensors (e.g. oil pressure)

There are a few other things such as front bumper & grille re-paint to happen at the same time if i can. Time shouldn't b too much of a factor as the car isn't needed until after summer.

So if anyone knows of the best place to get parts for this (I'm thinking GSF as I get most from there already) please pipe up. Or if you know of anything else I should/could think about doing I'd be grateful.

Cheers guys

WilsonP

Oh and I will be posting a full photo diary of this too!!

[VR6Pete 1,455]

Hi mate. There is a detailed guide on doing this in the knowledge vault, as you are a club member, it probably is a good place to start

Those oil cooler seals are a common fault easy job if you have front end off, clutch, I'd just go for a good quality standard. I've just installed a new Valeo clutch kit, I'd also recommend installing a new slave cylinder too while your there, mine is really smooth now.

[Lukey. 381]

On all of the parts use the correct type of sealant, you know, coolant resistant on the water pump and thermo housing, oil resistant on the oil cooler seals.

The water pump and oil pump are exchange parts so if you get a genuine one they'll give you some money back, though the OEM oil cooler is more expensive than a generic one, the OEM water cooler worked out a bit cheaper when I did mine.

vwspares.co.uk are good on parts and prices, ECP can be good on some parts and you will ususally get a branded part.

[leespiro 9]

hi im in need of doing my timing chains where the cheapest place to get the set from mine is the single chain

[leespiro 9]

are these the single chain and guide numbers

* 021 109 503 D - upper timing chain

* 071 109 513 - upper timing chain guide rail

* 021 109 509 E - upper timing chain tensioner rail

* 021 109 465 B - lower timing chain

* 021 109 469 - lower timing chain guide rail

* 021 109 467 - lower timing chain tensioner rail

* 068 198 171 - rear main oil seal

cheers

[Lukey. 381]

cheapest would be an ebay seller in USA called EAP, he advertises genuine timing chain setup for a converted ~£126. Then you just take the chance on customs whether they add 20% onto it.

[leespiro 9]

nice one do u have a link to it just checked ebay couldnt find them

[Wilsonp83 1]

Thanks for all the comments so far everyone. reckon I'll nail it in a month. any suggestions on removing front end? Axle stands the best way to support? Can the gearbox stay in the car or is it best to pull engine and gearbox out together?

[Daverse 175]

I'd just take the gearbox off, just make sure the engine is well supported with a jack and a bit of wood to spread the weight.

[Lukey. 381]

nice one do u have a link to it just checked ebay couldnt find them

ebay item 360543362483

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1997-2002-VW-Jetta-Golf-VR6-2-8L-V6-AFP-Engine-Genuine-OEM-Timing-Chain-Kit-NEW-/360543362483?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53f20f1db3

[Lukey. 381]

Thanks for all the comments so far everyone. reckon I'll nail it in a month. any suggestions on removing front end? Axle stands the best way to support? Can the gearbox stay in the car or is it best to pull engine and gearbox out together?

You only have to remove 6 bolts (and a few arch liner screws and re-usable plastic rivets) to get this result. Easy peasy.

[Wilsonp83 1]

Thanks for all the gen so far. Engine stand has just arrived. Need to assemble it now. Any one used a stand for a VR6 lump before? I'm intending to have the engine out for a while.

The fun will commence at the end of this month once the tax is dead and the motorbike is up and running!!

[Wilsonp83 1]

Cheers Lukey, that'll help!! G'box rebuild to follow!!

[Wilsonp83 1]

Ok so had a couple of days now to hit it hard. Some has been easy, largely mk3 generic items found in haynes manual. Other more specific vr6 bits a bit more ninja, although some covered in the russek vr6 manual.

Summary:

Battery tray was pain in the tits as power steer reservoir was seized in place.

Air con was absolute pain in the tits.

Front panel assembly otherwise pretty straight forward.

Upper manifolds assembly pretty much ok. However some screws for the dress assembly plastics were seized which meant they didn't come off intact.

Coolant bits were a nightmare as some of the fixings were seized so pipes etc were difficult to put it politely.

Think that sums up most up to now I reckon.

Next up getting ready to get it out. Anyone got tips on separating the gearbox from the engine and leaving the gearbox in the car?

[VR6Pete 1,455]

It's easier to remove the gearbox from the car mate to be honest

[Lukey. 381]

You can't really leave it in when its separated as the engine is the only thing holding it in anyway.

[Vw_owner 1]

yea pull the engine and gearbox out as one, then separate them out of the car , remember the order of the bolts in the bell housing!

[Jimjon 28]

Thanks for all the gen so far. Engine stand has just arrived. Need to assemble it now. Any one used a stand for a VR6 lump before? I'm intending to have the engine out for a while.

The fun will commence at the end of this month once the tax is dead and the motorbike is up and running!!

Just done mine myself as well. Used a sealey 350kg stand' date=' although i only put engine on it, not the gearbox.

I removed the rear engine mount bracket and used the same bolts with something to pack them out as they are too long.

Inner cv joints on the driveshafts are a bit of a pain to undo/torque up imo, don't enjoy doing them

[Lukey. 381]

They aren't so bad with a couple of different length extensions, the big head of the torque wrench is the biggest issue on the drivers side with not much clearance, also much easier if you have a helper apply and release the brakes at your command.

[Wilsonp83 1]

ok fellas, cheers for all the advice so far, it's been a great help.

Ok so the drivers side Driveshaft is disconnected but now I have one (previously rounded) bolt stuck in passenger side driveshaft.

Any ideas?

I need to lift it tomorrow to take lift back to hire place.

Cheers

[VR6Pete 1,455]

They just torx ain't they? Have you tried knocking in a bigger one and cracking it off? If that doesn't work then possibly some irwin bolt removers?

[Dave_ciw 507]

If you can't hammer a larger spline bit into it try a hammer an chisel just to get that first movement once you do it should unwind fine with the correct size (hope that makes sense lol) Before attempting it though you may want to put another bolt back in and tighten it up so all the down pressure isn't on the one your trying to remove.

If at the end of it you need and bolts let me know can pop a few in the post!

As Luke says plenty of extensions and a screw driver in a vented disc to stop things from spinning is how I would do it now, the best bit of advice is always make sure the spline bit is fully seated in the bolt I would always tap each one with a hammer before attempting to unwind as this will prevent slippage! Christ on some I tap them in use two large extensions and buzz them off with a snap on impact gun lol

[Wilsonp83 1]

Guys,

Thanks for all the advice so far, I tried an impact drive with no success, drilled the head to try an easy out which didn't work. So ended up cutting the head off the one offending bolt. To be fair I recon I will replace all bolts, if they dont clean up well.

Once that was done, engine mounts off and the front sub frame member out of the way, engine came out no snags.

I will be in touch on here to replace the parts I need to!

I did break a few rhondda on the

[Wilsonp83 1]

No idea what the rhondda bit is about!

[Wilsonp83 1]

No idea what the rhondda bit is about!