Therusterman 59 Posted August 19, 2013 Report Share Posted August 19, 2013 Hi guys, gave the car a scan earlier today, came up with fault codes for the air intake temperature sensor and the evap canister purge valve.I have noticed sometimes when the car is warm, when starting the engine it stalls if i don't give it some revs, i'm guessing this is to do with the air sensor. Is there a way of testing the sensor to confirm this? So far i've only tested the resistance of the sensor and at 20 degrees i got just over 1600 ohms of resistance.Also, with the N80 valve is there a test i can do on this, as this seems quite expensive to replace!Many thanks Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted August 19, 2013 Report Share Posted August 19, 2013 The N80 I wouldn't bother worrying about, its expensive and doesn't cause any problems other than the fault code. Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 1,455 Posted August 19, 2013 Report Share Posted August 19, 2013 I believe the N80 can cause your ECU not to adapt. You can perform an output test under engine, you should hear it ticking... Probably best just to replace with second hand one. Also I've heard of temp sensor causing issues, if you've had the manifold off / plugs on thermo stat housing, make sure you ain't got them mixed up they looks quite similar lol Link to post Share on other sites
Therusterman 59 Posted August 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2013 Well, i've ordered a replacement Bosch N80 valve. As for getting the plugs mixed up Pete, what colour wires should be going to the intake sensor? Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 1,455 Posted August 19, 2013 Report Share Posted August 19, 2013 I'd have to check mate, someone on Corrado forum did an obd2 upgrade and had temp sensor issue and I think the connector that goes to the black stage 3 sensor is very similar... Ended up with stage 3 not working and a temp sensor fault. Link to post Share on other sites
Therusterman 59 Posted August 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2013 Cheers Pete. Think I read about that earlier. Is the similar connector on the thermostat housing? Just that I have brown, yellow and blue sensors, couldn't see a similar looking black connector. Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 As long as your lambda is working properly for cold start when you're up to temp it doesn't do that. I've been running with an N80 fault due to cannister removal for 3 years and no issue, my emissions are fresh air and it doesn't drink fuel. Link to post Share on other sites
UnitedMotorsport 55 Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 As long as your lambda is working properly for cold start when you're up to temp it doesn't do that. I've been running with an N80 fault due to cannister removal for 3 years and no issue' date=' my emissions are fresh air and it doesn't drink fuel. [/quote']Lambda has nothing to do with cold start, other than using the long term fuel trims that are set from the previous drive.The N80 I wouldn't bother worrying about' date=' its expensive and doesn't cause any problems other than the fault code. [/quote']Wrong. A missing N80 will cause the fuel long term trims to not set. This how ever is easy to fool, if your EVAP hardware is missing, plug an injector into the plug or fit a resistor. Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 Ok then, I was given wrong information by someone who should, and I trusted that they did, know what they're talking about. What rating resistor should you use to stop an N80 error code? I tried a 33ohm (I think) and it didn't remove the error, after which I asked the "specialist" and he said it was inconsequential as long as your lambda works for cold start. Link to post Share on other sites
Therusterman 59 Posted August 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2013 To keep this updated, the only code that keeps re-appearing is 527. Is it worth replacing this AIT sensor or can I check anything else, and as far as I can see its plugged in properly.Still waiting on the N80 valve too. Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted August 27, 2013 Report Share Posted August 27, 2013 Not thread jacking but I put an injector on the N80 plug as stated above and the 01247 error hasn't come back as yet, but I've forgotten how to check the fuel trims, I tried the 032 measuring block like ross tech but it doesnt show anything so assuming its for newer cars. Link to post Share on other sites
Therusterman 59 Posted August 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 The new valve arrived yesterday and was fitted. But the code for the N80 valve hasn't re-appeared. Still getting the one for the air intake temperature sensor, leaning towards just replacing it now. Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 Found it. It's group 4 in measuring blocks to check fuel trims. Link to post Share on other sites
Therusterman 59 Posted September 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2013 Right, got vcds lite installed on the laptop and have an obd cable. Looked at block 4, to check fuel trims is this 'tank vent op.mode (ACF)'? Getting readings from 0.99 up to 1.06, but have no idea what this means!Also, the 00527 code keeps reappearing!!! I've replaced this sensor. On vcds the temperature shown by this sensor when the engine is off is -46.5oc (with ignition on) But when the engine is running the sensor reads as you'd expect-slightly higher than ambient temperature due to the location of the sensor.Any guidance would be much appreciated Edit: I found when the fault code was cleared, the inlet air temp sensor still read -46.5oc, then after a few seconds it bumped up to around 20oc, am i right in saying the ecu reads a default temperature if no reading is taken from the sensor? Vcds is also saying its a short to earth, think i'll need to pull it all apart and locate is there is a short in the wiring somewhere...suppose while its all apart I should whip off the thermostat housing and fix the small leak its got as well. Link to post Share on other sites
Therusterman 59 Posted September 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 Finally have this resolved! Found there was a short to earth according to vcds, traced the wire back to the main engine harness connector and found a bent pin. Guess what, this was the grounding pin for the air inlet temperature sensor, so straightened it out and have a working sensor again. Also put back in the genuine sensor as I prefer that to the patent part I replaced it with. Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Nice so easy fix in the end. Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 1,455 Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Good result Link to post Share on other sites
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