New Owner. Looking For Info Before Insurance & Service

[WhatsHisName 0]

If this would be better suited in another forum, could a mod please move this? Thanks.

 

I'm not the owner - my brother is. Stupidly, he decided to buy the car before he found out whether he could insure it or not. Turns out as it stands, he can't.

 

I'm assuming this setup here isn't standard with the air filter

 

 

How can you tell whether the exhaust system is standard? I've seen MK3 Golf's with little peashooter twin pipes, but these look much beefier:

 

 

He's also been told that it's lowered on coilovers. Question is, we don't know how much. He's not interested in returning the suspension to a standard setup.

 

He's insured with Elephant & when you go through the insuring process & get to the mods, there's the <5cm option & then there's the 5cm>12.5cm option. We've no idea which is correct. Or even to tell whether the info is correct - whether it is lowered or not.

 

That's the insurance queries we have, as the other ones (tint for e.g.) are pretty obvious.

 

 

 

 

As for basic servicing.....

 

This car is on an R-reg.

 

1) What oil is recommended & how much oil is required each oil change?

2) What's the coolant capacity if he renews this?

3) Cambelt renewal intervals? I own an Astra myself & i've always been advised to renew the water pump when doing the cambelt on that. Is the same applying for the VR6? (you'll be able to grasp my limited car knowledge by now i suppose).

[Nex 17]

Hiya buddy,

 

the air filter is definitely not standard, it looks like a k&n cone filter. l would also say that the exhaust is not standard but l am not 100% sure to be honest.

 

I dont think anyone on here would be able to even take a guess at whether the car has been lowered with out at least a side on view or a picture of the suspension  

 

You will need about 6L of oil for an oil/filter change, but l cant remember the recommended oil off hand but l think it is something like 10w 40.

 

VR6's dont have cambelt buddy, they have timing chains which tend to last longer. however it is hard to know if they would need changing without seeing the car, but if they were on their way out you should be able to hear some chain rattle or you could change them just to be safe and no l dont think you need to change the water pump at the same time. 

[Lukey. 381]

Double post

[WhatsHisName 0]

Cheers for the reply fella.

 

He's been in touch with the bloke who sold it. He said - exhaust is not standad. The suspension is he thinks, lowered by 5cm.

 

How do they get on with the cone filters? I can only relate it to the Astra i have & i know people were putting cone filters on on those & suffering with the performance due to heat soak. Is it the same there with the VR6? If he's more interested in performance (not just talking about speed, but all round performance) than noise, would he be better changing this for a standard airbox, or would this make zero difference?

 

 

Is it pretty labour intensive for a timing chain change on these engines (at a garage) or are they not too expensive to get done?

[Lukey. 381]

That's an aftermarket cone filter, the exhaust isn't standard either. You need 10w40 semi syn make sure its VW spec 505.01(if I remember correct) as said its 6L.

It's an R plate so if its on its original engine you need a later style cartridge oil filter.

You need 3 bottles of the genuine G12++ (equals 4.5L) from VW then fill the rest up with halfords battery water for the coolant. The total capacity is 10L.

As also said they are chain driven. If its getting to 100 - 120 thousand miles, there's no evidence of it ever being done and you are going to keep it for a while then new chains and guides is a good idea, but will cost a few hundred in parts alone if you do it properly with genuine VW parts, which you should because then they will all be JWIS parts that will last another 100k.

If you can hear a rattling like nails in a jar on the right side of the engine where the HT leads go on the coilpack that gets worse at about 1500rpm, then this is a sign you need to at least consider getting a new top chain tensioner bolt if not replacing all the timing gear as describde above.

If getting a garage to do it then it will obviously have labour on aswell but providing you have the right tools this engine is actually pretty idiot proof and I thought was a joy to work on when I took mine to pieces.

I would say the same applies to the water pump as far as changing it, if it has never been done then you could. They are an exchange item from VW so actually work out cheaper than most places at about £20 plus your old pump. They do have a drop hole on them too that is designed to drip when they are worn out so you can see it dripping and replace it.

When doing the water pump do the aux belt too, a conti tech belt from euro car parts is the best one and not expensive.

Always use proper pink VW coolant and proper green VW power steering fluid, using anything else can damage things expensively. They should also obviously have these coloured fluids in to begin with, if they don't then you need to thoroughly flush them out and replace with the proper item ASAP.

[WhatsHisName 0]

That's an aftermarket cone filter, the exhaust isn't standard either. You need 10w40 semi syn make sure its VW spec 505.01(if I remember correct) as said its 6L.

It's an R plate so if its on its original engine you need a later style cartridge oil filter.

You need 3 bottles of the genuine G12++ (equals 4.5L) from VW then fill the rest up with halfords battery water for the coolant. The total capacity is 10L.

As also said they are chain driven. If its getting to 100 - 120 thousand miles, there's no evidence of it ever being done and you are going to keep it for a while then new chains and guides is a good idea, but will cost a few hundred in parts alone if you do it properly with genuine VW parts, which you should because then they will all be JWIS parts that will last another 100k.

If you can hear a rattling like nails in a jar on the right side of the engine where the HT leads go on the coilpack that gets worse at about 1500rpm, then this is a sign you need to at least consider getting a new top chain tensioner bolt if not replacing all the timing gear as describde above.

If getting a garage to do it then it will obviously have labour on aswell but providing you have the right tools this engine is actually pretty idiot proof and I thought was a joy to work on when I took mine to pieces.

I would say the same applies to the water pump as far as changing it, if it has never been done then you could. They are an exchange item from VW so actually work out cheaper than most places at about £20 plus your old pump. They do have a drop hole on them too that is designed to drip when they are worn out so you can see it dripping and replace it.

When doing the water pump do the aux belt too, a conti tech belt from euro car parts is the best one and not expensive.

Always use proper pink VW coolant and proper green VW power steering fluid, using anything else can damage things expensively. They should also obviously have these coloured fluids in to begin with, if they don't then you need to thoroughly flush them out and replace with the proper item ASAP.

 

The car has covered either 155k or 165k miles IIRC. Certainly over 100k that's for sure. There's no proof of anything being done unfortunately - he only has the V5C as paperwork & a few MOT certificates, absolutely nothing else.

 

I did hear a rattle when i drove it, but that was coming from the rear, passenger i think, when going over bumps.

 

Thanks for the info. I'll pass it on to him & he can make his mind up.

[Daverse 175]

If your confident in doing a headgasket, i would say chains is doable. As lukey said, these engines are pretty straight forward, and quite forgiving (even for me!) Theres a guide on here for club members as well with good ibfo kn doing chains

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

[Lukey. 381]

The actual act of doing chains will take about half an hour, its taking the gearbox off etc to get to te lower chain that takes a long time.

[Therusterman 59]

Get a couple of pictures up to give some perspective how much lower the car is. Regarding the potential chain rattle have a search on youtube and that will give you an idea of what it sounds like. As Luke says, doing the chains themselves is quite straight forward, its getting to them that takes the time.

[Lukey. 381]

As for insurance look at more specialist companies, you can find a few in the insurance section, you should get much better quotes as long as you aren't 17 and live on moss side.

[Therusterman 59]

One other thing, as its lowered on coilovers, could you not raise the car back up to standard ride height? If I remeber correctly the vr6 is approx 20mm lower than a regular mk3 golf, just a thought.

[VR6Pete 1,455]

Welcome to the club

Club

[WhatsHisName 0]

Not sure where you'd stop to get it at standard height?

 

Insurance thing is sorted - seller said it'd been lowered 5cm & we were insuring it in the between 5cm-12.5cm category. This lets him insure it.

 

Right, trying to buy filters for this & went to the oil filter. Looked at EuroCarParts & also eBay. ECP show a cartridge type oil filter whereas eBay show a sprin on canister.

 

So off out to the car we go, torch in hand & can we find the oil filter? Not a chance. Where's this bloody thing hidden at?

 

 

Also, there's a purple like plunger coming out of a small fluid tank on the drivers side. It's not in the photo, but it's just behind the air filter there. It's dark, so we can't see a max & min level, but the fluid looks quite low when we shake it. We can push the plunger down but it keeps shooting up. What is this fluid? Would it be the brakes? Either way it's quite low.

 

Also with the coolant, i suppose different manufacturers recommend different ratios, but 1:1 ok? That's what i use in my Vauxhall as a recommendation & it's fine for me. So 5L coolant, 5L water for the VR6 ok?

[WhatsHisName 0]

While i'm here i may as well see if any previous owners of this car are on the forum.

 

R242KOJ

 

It's like a burgundy red. Doesn't have a VW badge up front but the VR6 badge instead. Carbon wrapped bonnet & boot (not to my taste but each to their own). White porsche alloys.

 

Ringing any bells with anyone?

[daveyboy 897]

Post some pics of the car up mate. People might recognise it easier.

[Lukey. 381]

Between 45 and 50 % mix for coolant, 45 % equals 3 full bottles so just stick to that.

The plunger is on the brake fluid reservoir, there should be a little rubber thing on top if it holding it down, if its always up you should be always having a brake warning light on your dash.

The oil canister is for older type VR6 engines, cartridge is what you should need, if you raise the car and stick your head underneath the oil filter cap is big black plastic with a 36mm hex moulded in it with a small Allen key drain screw in the middle which is on the front if the engine.

Don't take the Allen key screw out they can strip out really easily, get a 36mm socket and just drop the cap and be ready to catch the oil in the canister with a container.

Ideally you should be using a torque wrench when you do it back up to 30Nm, if you do it up too tight the cap will crack and you'll need a new one.

[WhatsHisName 0]

The plunger is always up, but there's no brake warning light on the dash. Speaking of which, the bulbs are buggered for the dash - in that you can't tell how fast you're going as you can't see. Is it a nuisance to replace the bulbs?

 

On the topic of the speedo, i was told you can convert a MK4 set of clocks to fit into a MK3. Is this fairly easy or is it a PITA?

 

Thanks for the heads up on the oil filter.

 

 

 

Here's a question -

 

After being advised to go for the pink VW coolant .... why is it that you're not supposed to mix the pink & blue? Why can't you just flush it & put any old anti freeze in? My brother (not that i'm saying he's right, because he usually isn't) says you can mix the two & no harm done. I said i'd ask about it on here.

 

 

Photos of said car after all the bloody stickers had been removed from the rear window....

 

 

 

 

Oh & on the topic of complaints - the clutch pedal is bloody stiff!! The gear stick has a silly amount of play in it & in my opinion the brakes are really quite poor in that they're not very sharp.

[Lukey. 381]

If you just put the VW coolant in now and the current stuff isn't compatible, not only have you now got to thoroughly flush the horrible brown slime and gritty deposits out, which takes ages, you also just wasted about a tenner a bottle on G12++ or G13 (which doesn't matter as they ARE compatible) and have to immediately drain it and buy more to fill it up againbonce it is all flushed.

Then you will know that the coolant has the correct level of antifreeze in it and won't crack the head or block in the middle of winter and that it has the right stuff in.

[WhatsHisName 0]

Looking on the tinterweb & carparts 4 less seems cheaper than ECP.

 

Our local VW dealer is quite a way out, so while ordering the following parts:

 

oil filter - http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/Volkswagen_Golf_2.8_1998/p/car-parts/car-service-parts/regular-service/oil-filter/?501440150&1&400d438ac7f0586ccc3b9a2869928ccec5db8148&1&000231

fuel filter - http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/Volkswagen_Golf_2.8_1998/p/car-parts/car-service-parts/regular-service/fuel-filter/?503440038&1&be276f0c0893931874e942579c02b4c0ddab41d9&1&000140

pollen filter - http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/Volkswagen_Golf_2.8_1998/p/car-parts/car-service-parts/regular-service/pollen-filter/?507440030&1&d28907064346bd179840744af6612f600e2b4fcc&1&000047

 

(i assume they're correct for this car? Have experienced ECP being wrong before), had a look at the available anti freeze there, but it states it's blue:

 

http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/Volkswagen_Golf_2.8_1998/p/car-parts/car-lubricants-and-car-fluids/lubricant-and-fluids/anti-freeze2/?523770471&1&0f0c9ef46edd990ee306240db6b9337190e9ece2&000397

 

If the car is drained & then fresh water is pumped through & THEN this stuff is added, would that be ok? Or is it still best to get pink from VW? If so, why?

[Lukey. 381]

Those look like the correct filters.

 

VW went to the trouble of formulating a coolant specifically for their alloy headed engines that antifreeze qualities wouldnt deteriorate and wouldnt degrade the seals and gaskets, I dont know what you seem to have against just using the correct coolant because it would cost about £15 more.

[WhatsHisName 0]

 I dont know what you seem to have against just using the correct coolant because it would cost about £15 more.

Who said i have anything against the correct coolant?

 

Can i not just be interested in learning the difference between the pink coolant & the blue? (which for the record is what i'm actually trying to do).

 

 

Anyway i was wondering - i get Vauxhall stuff really quite cheap. I got some coolant from them a few year ago when i renewed mine & it was pink. Since i can get this much cheaper & it's pink, will it do the trick if his coolant system gets flushed through?

 

Or does it have to be VW pink?

[Lukey. 381]

Haha the colour has nothing to do with what's in it, the colour is only relevant to the previous generations of the same coolant from the same manufacturer. This is why i said you can't mix VW blue with VW pink.

Basically I could tell you many reasons why the VW stuff is best for your VR, which involves having to go into much boring technical details about the base ingredients and errosion protection etc etc for example vauxhall coolant is actually based on acid, which is fine for vauxhall as they are designed to take it, but the details even bore me and I am a technical minded person.

[WhatsHisName 0]

The fuel filter - i assume it's located near the rear axle? How do you depressurize the system though?

 

Pollen filter - assuming this is under the scuttle panel like on all the other VWs i've done this on?

[VR6Pete 1,455]

Hi mate, I didn't depressurize my system when doing the fuel filter, its just situated under the drivers side sill under towards the back.

 

5 minutes job, just clamp up the lines and off you go, just don't have the ignition on

 

pollen filter is passenger side under the scuttle panel, simple job

[Lukey. 381]

You can empty the lines either by removing the fuel pump relay or by unplugging the fuel pump which can be accessed by lifting the boot carpet then removing the black rounded triangular panel. Then start the car and it will suck the fuel out of the line.