shail 0 Posted May 1, 2005 Report Share Posted May 1, 2005 Coolant that is.....Mine was brown, I have spent the day flushing, refilling, cooling & flushing. Did it 4 times till water ran clear. Refilled with G12+ - it stayed pink for a while, but after a good burn, its gone red/brown (not as bad as before though). Am i right in saying that as long as the temp stays at 90 as normal, theres nothing to worry about? Link to post Share on other sites
badboyV6 4 Posted May 1, 2005 Report Share Posted May 1, 2005 If the cooling system has been neglected it might just be more shit coming out of the system shail...... if its pressurising (where the head gasket is leaking from a cylinder to the coolant system then the pipes would be rock hard...... If it is fron an oilway to the coolant its harder to trace. Any white gunk on the oil capor the dipstick? Link to post Share on other sites
dubloke 4 Posted May 1, 2005 Report Share Posted May 1, 2005 could be a dodgy rad or heater matrix thats turning the water brown as deposits come loose as the water circulates! more likely just needs a good flushing tbh and you could use a rad flush additive to help remove the deposits! i'd be a little worried that its that bad as the coolant should be changed quite regularly on the vr engine to avoid premature h/g failure and other related coolant troubles! Link to post Share on other sites
shail 0 Posted May 1, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2005 Pipes are not rock hard, and ther is no gunk on oil cap / dipstick. I think its just been neglected. After today i'm pretty sure that i wont be able to get it all out. I cant face taking to bot rad hose off again cos the clips a right arse ache to get back on.DUBLOKE - I thought that the G12 / G12+ coolant was a 'life long' coolant which just needs checking for concentration? Maybe not early VR's which may have come with G11Also - if anyones planning on draining the coolant - dont bother trying to get to the drain plug (i found it impossible). Just remove bot rad hose, & also remove the top rad hose where it goes into the block under the coilpack - i was surprised how much extra water came out. Even after this there was still about 5l of water which i couldnt get out.[ Edited Sun May 01 2005, 08:52PM ] Link to post Share on other sites
VRmonster 1 Posted May 1, 2005 Report Share Posted May 1, 2005 wouldnt turning on the ignition to run the aux water pump help with draining the top hoses and head out? ovbiously watching not to over heat the pump ponce the coolant is gone.im going to buy a special tool for those daft vw spring clips, would these be better to replace with normal screw hose clamps or get the vw ones again? will be going samco too so will the vw ones work/fit. Link to post Share on other sites
acf8181 0 Posted May 1, 2005 Report Share Posted May 1, 2005 Pipes are not rock hard' date=' and ther is no gunk on oil cap / dipstick. I think its just been neglected. After today i'm pretty sure that i wont be able to get it all out. I cant face taking to bot rad hose off again cos the clips a right arse ache to get back on.DUBLOKE - I thought that the G12 / G12+ coolant was a 'life long' coolant which just needs checking for concentration? Maybe not early VR's which may have come with G11Also - if anyones planning on draining the coolant - dont bother trying to get to the drain plug (i found it impossible). Just remove bot rad hose, & also remove the top rad hose where it goes into the block under the coilpack - i was surprised how much extra water came out. Even after this there was still about 5l of water which i couldnt get out.[ Edited Sun May 01 2005, 08:52PM ']what you on about...is mega easy to get to the drain plug....just jack the car upa fraction to lift the splitter then get up there with a flat head screwdriver...easy as pie. Link to post Share on other sites
shail 0 Posted May 1, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2005 If you're going to get samcos then i'd deffo get normal jubilee clips - there only cheap & do the job better. As i'd refilled with water 3 times to flush, i wsant too worried obout 5l remaining in, as to get the correct concentration i just added 4l of coolant & 1 l of water. Link to post Share on other sites
dubloke 4 Posted May 2, 2005 Report Share Posted May 2, 2005 i would get good quality jubilees tbh as the halfords and motor factors tat tend to cut into the samco's and that will end up an expensive cheap clip! the samco hose clips have rounded edges to avoid this as do the likes of mikalor too![ Edited Mon May 02 2005, 10:28PM ] Link to post Share on other sites
dubloke 4 Posted May 2, 2005 Report Share Posted May 2, 2005 and no coolant is "life long" it needs flushing and refilling on a regular basis to maintain the engines reliability, same as oil! Link to post Share on other sites
alanf 0 Posted May 2, 2005 Report Share Posted May 2, 2005 Also if you change any metalic parts that come into contact with the coolant you need to replace the coolant as it looses it protective properties! Link to post Share on other sites
acf8181 0 Posted May 3, 2005 Report Share Posted May 3, 2005 just been reading the bentley manual, and coolant change is not on the service schedule, and is supposed to be life long according to vw! - ROFLMAOthis is as good as the 'timing chains never need changing' lie.i think vw either know they're cheap thin hoses are gonna blow at least once every 20k or so, or they want all the old cars to not get passed 100k so they can sell the owners a new car. idiots. Link to post Share on other sites
SankysVR6 1 Posted May 3, 2005 Report Share Posted May 3, 2005 Anybody know where you can buy good quality Jubilee Clips from? Link to post Share on other sites
acf8181 0 Posted May 3, 2005 Report Share Posted May 3, 2005 for o.e. hoses halfords one will be fine.....but for samco's use samco's own clips. Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts