Jump to content

96 vr6 1st ever project build thread,


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 523
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

It's alive! https://vimeo.com/127356810 Another box ticked on my bucket list.......own a supercharged car! Love that noise!

Got a few more bits done this week, not as much as I would have liked as works been busy and I've been waiting on bits including the longer belt for the charger that's coming from America and is silly

Finally had some time recently to get a start on fitting the air ride onto the car, I managed to get a hardly used Airlift V2 digital set up with twin compressors at reasonable price, Started with s

Posted Images

  • 4 weeks later...

Yeah it's the best way have two engines, I possibly am going to steal your oil cooler idea if you don't mind

That's fine mate, mines going to be coming off of the front of mine soon, so I could possibly sell you the extended hoses if you want, they were bloody expensive from pirtek!

So I'll be making a move into the world of air ride soon, never really played with it and half of what this car is about to me is trying new things (to me anyway) to see how and if I can make them work! 13dc3268c511a5b9b4cd92e459aedd35.jpg

Makes for excellent toilet reading0f1488c08085fcbb036ff2134e5e8eb8.jpg

And at least I shouldn't have a problem getting on the rollers at the next rolling road day!

Edited by bennyk
Link to post
Share on other sites

No problem buddy,

I'd recommend D.O.T approved air line,

And D.O.T approved fittings, as a minimum.

Flexible nylon air lines are not the best,

I'd pay more for the D.O.T approved stuff, as a minimum.

D.O.T approved:

Double layered,

Hard to kink or fold,

Double sealed fitting (seals on inside and outside of pipe)

Vehicle approved (lorry air brakes, government buses, range rovers and few vehicles that come with air bags from factory - would run this types of air line and fittings)

Nylon air line:

Cheaper,

Single layered,

Folds, bends and kinks easily (causing air blocks or bottle necks)

Does not work with dot approved fitting very well (nylon line will fit inside a dot approved fitting, But it only seals on the outside of the pipe, not the inside, so your only getting a single seal, defeating the whole purpose of D.O.T double seal.)

If you want the best of the best, but by far the most expensive, but will out last and out spec any D.O.T approved system..... Braided High Pressure Air Line, and AN approved fittings.

This is the same type of line found on hydraulic systems that bounce cars 8-10ft in the air,

Same as track or race car fuel system,

They can even be found on some military plane and jet engines.

Braided high pressure lines are triple layered, very robust, with a working pressure of 1000psi, and a burst pressure of 6000psi, so it's huge over kill for air ride. But it's the best you can get, plus if made and fitted correctly guarantee 100% leak free!

Lower pressure braided line can be double layered. And have lesser ratings.

You can also make hardlines made from either copper or aluminium, they look fancy, plus work well, so long as used with the correct fittings.

Do not use nylon air line push to connect fittings with copper. I see this done a lot and I do not recommend it. Everytime you disconnect the fitting, turn, spin or vibrate the pipe it scores and marks the inside of the fitting , as it's meant to seal nylon not copper, and they will start to leak air from the scoring and marks on the seal inside the fitting. Yet I see it done offten, sometime even from professional companies. Use either compression fittings, copper or metal push to connect fittings (not ones meant to seal nylon air line) use ones meant for copper, flared v fittings, or braise them.

Less fittings = less places to possible leak, so the longer lengths of pipe or line you can run the better.

I think the correct type of air line and fittings is one of the most important decisions to building a good reliable air system, but many times gets overlooked. This is more important than the location of the line by far.

Edited by c00k
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 5 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

After a few months of occasionally driving the VR but mostly ignoring under its cover on the drive, I've finally found a bit of time today to start doing a few bits to it for this years show season.

I started with getting rid of the oil cooler from the front bumper as it's got boring answering questions about it and it definitely won't go with the slightly different look I've got planned for it this year.

Last pic of it on there, post-93280-145427189415_thumb.jpg

I've managed to squeeze it in between the A/C rad and crossmember after drilling a hole in the front panel for the pipes to run through, then secured it nicely to the front panel; post-93280-145427210247_thumb.jpgpost-93280-145427211173_thumb.jpg

Fits perfectly behind the bumper!

post-93280-145427285598_thumb.jpg

Then I checked the fit of this 8" sub enclosure I bought of eBay for £55, it's made very well and fits perfectly with a little trimming of the rear panel trim. post-93280-145427237007_thumb.jpg

The main reason for this (apart from wanting to get rid of the massive chavtastic 12" box I had!) was I need to make a bit of room for my next big job of fitting this lot;post-93280-145427251031_thumb.jpg Which I'm not massively looking forward too, I feel a bit of a crash course in carpentry coming up!

post-93280-14542721453_thumb.jpg

Edited by bennyk
Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good buddy, :)

carpentry isn't to hard dude,

Get a half decent jig-saw, and some wooden blades and your on your way.

Use straight 2"-1" lengths to get nice straight cuts, following them as guides.

If you want to do very nice curves, joins or overlap, I suggest a hand router, with a few different ends. Would be cheaper to rent or lend a hand router if you don't own one. Not cheap to buy.

If uphostering the wood after cutting and shaping pre-seal the wood with PVA, to stop the upholstery adhesive soaking in to much.

Apply upholstery adhesive to both wood and underside of material, allow to tack off, then bring both surfaces together.

Any other info or tips just give me a shout buddy.

Edited by c00k
Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah luckily I've got a few mates that are a lot more handy than me with this stuff, so the plan is for me to get it all wired/plumbed in then maybe call in a couple of favours to knock me some sort of boot build up. I'm not that much into these fancy boot builds so the plan is for it to be very neat and simple and hopefully mostly hidden.

Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...