paceo 22 Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 (edited) golf vr6 - right i bought this schrick inlet manifold off a member on here last may and fitted it last week, low down torque is good and i finally got the flap to open as the bolts were too tight! but it still feels very flat when the 4000rpm surge is meant to come in when the flap opens (yes it opens when i revv it etc.......) today i thought lets have a look and the flap arm that the actuator rod connects to is sitting out about 1cm so i had to push it with a screwdriver to make it sit flush against the inlet again, im thinking something is loose inside, any other ideas before i take it off? low down torque is much better, above 4k is flat! Edited March 12, 2014 by paceo Link to post Share on other sites
redborbet 25 Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 (edited) I fitted a shtick to my corrado (obd1) and there is no surge at 4000 mate , does it pull all the way to the redline ? Or does it noticeably lose lots once over 4 grandYou won't get a vetch like kick from a schrick manni all the power it develops is lower down at 1500 to 4000 rpm , I had my car on the rollers at stealth and it produced 196.1 bhp and 189 lb/ft , after the schrick and no remap it made 198.5 and 201.1 lb/ ftSchricks are about torque gains and there all focused on low down power , if something is stuck open I'd say you was more likely going to lose torque rather that horsepower , Does the light change over at 4000 rpm ? And is all the vacuumed lines all connected properly and do you have the one way air valve the correct way , you should be able to blown through one side and not the other Where did you get your vacuumed feed from did you cut and use a t piece or did you use one of the spare vacume ports from (I think !!) the brake servo The only other thing I can think is if you have trapped the vacuumed pipe under the manni somewhere when you have routed it or like you have said something is stuck open but to be honest I've never been inside mine as it had only done 2500 miles when I put it on Edited March 12, 2014 by redborbet Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted March 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 (edited) I fitted a shtick to my corrado (obd1) and there is no surge at 4000 mate , does it pull all the way to the redline ? Or does it noticeably lose lots once over 4 grandYou won't get a vetch like kick from a schrick manni all the power it develops is lower down at 1500 to 4000 rpm , I had my car on the rollers at stealth and it produced 196.1 bhp and 189 lb/ft , after the schrick and no remap it made 198.5 and 201.1 lb/ ftSchricks are about torque gains and there all focused on low down power , if something is stuck open I'd say you was more likely going to lose torque rather that horsepower ,Does the light change over at 4000 rpm ? And is all the vacuumed lines all connected properly and do you have the one way air valve the correct way , you should be able to blown through one side and not the otherWhere did you get your vacuumed feed from did you cut and use a t piece or did you use one of the spare vacume ports from (I think !!) the brake servoThe only other thing I can think is if you have trapped the vacuumed pipe under the manni somewhere when you have routed it or like you have said something is stuck open but to be honest I've never been inside mine as it had only done 2500 miles when I put it on the low down torque has inprooved a hell of a lot, but it goes very flat / loses a lot after 4000rpm, yes the light changes from green to red and the flap opens. but when i fitted it the flap was seized so i unloosened the bolts and the flap opened. it pulls all the way to the redline but as said after 4000rpm it feels much flatter like the standard manifold maybe less. its been polished so has been apart at some stage! the vacuum is connected from the vacuum ports on the servo hose! the thing that is concerning me is that the flap arm was popping out 1cm or so is concerning me that something is not right / something not connected! before the schrick it made 197bhp at stealth with a de-cat, racelands 6 branch and a re-map. Edited March 12, 2014 by paceo Link to post Share on other sites
CALICO 130 Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 The upper end should be same as standard the schrick only adds torque below 4000rpm Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted March 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 The upper end should be same as standard the schrick only adds torque below 4000rpm something definatly not right though as the flap arm pops out, going to take it apart soon! Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 1,455 Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 Don't understand what you mean with the flap arm? Do you have a video? Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted March 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 (edited) Don't understand what you mean with the flap arm? Do you have a video? ill get a picture pete! just at work now so will do later! Edited March 13, 2014 by paceo Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted March 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 (edited) here is the arm problem, it pops out about 1cm and i have to push it back in with a screwdriver, when its popped in the car feels great but after 5 miles or so it pops out and feels flat and wont open on 4k! Edited March 14, 2014 by paceo Link to post Share on other sites
redborbet 25 Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 I'll be on my car tomorrow mate so will take a look and see what mine is like for you and if I can see anything different mate Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted March 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 I'll be on my car tomorrow mate so will take a look and see what mine is like for you and if I can see anything different mate please do, where the red arrow is, it should be sitting flush against the manifold! Link to post Share on other sites
redborbet 25 Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 Here's a few pics of mine . Opens at 4000 perfect so assume you have a problemI'd say taking the front of the manni like in my pic and reaching back in to it to tighten whatever is loose up , must be a bolt or a split pin holding it that's gave way Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 1,455 Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 here is the arm problem, it pops out about 1cm and i have to push it back in with a screwdriver, when its popped in the car feels great but after 5 miles or so it pops out and feels flat and wont open on 4k!Ah yes something not right there! time whip off the manifold and see what's going on Club Chairman Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted March 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 im off work tuesday so will do then pete! it will push back in though Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 1,455 Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 There should be something to secure it in if have thought Club Chairman Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted March 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 here is the problem, there is a little screw holding the arm to the shaft, this was missing hence why the arm was coming off! found a small screw and its perfect now!!! Link to post Share on other sites
Therusterman 59 Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 Does it drive better now? Link to post Share on other sites
CALICO 130 Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 it need to be a grub screw otherwise it will foul and not turn correctly Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 it need to be a grub screw otherwise it will foul and not turn correctly yes i have loads in my tins of spare nuts and bolts, 2mm alan key heads etc............. Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 before i sorted it the car was idling fine, after taking it off and re-fitting the manifold the car is idling like a bastard and the exhaust is popping a lot when i shift down the gears???????? Link to post Share on other sites
CALICO 130 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Maybe an air leak or reset the throttle body Link to post Share on other sites
jamesw6810 80 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Check the throttle cable adjustment aswell, mine went belly up when i changed my manifold, re adjusted and its fine now Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Maybe an air leak or reset the throttle body done that dude by resetting it and no good! drives fine still, just hunts badly on idly after taking it off again! also pops a lot not when coming down the gears! Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 1,455 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 If it was ok before and now it isn't then it's obviously something you've maybe fitted incorrectly, re-trace your steps and check for vacuum leaks and that everything is torqued up properly. Club Chairman Link to post Share on other sites
paceo 22 Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 If it was ok before and now it isn't then it's obviously something you've maybe fitted incorrectly, re-trace your steps and check for vacuum leaks and that everything is torqued up properly.Club Chairman sorted pete, the gasket is shot in the corner, put my finger on it and it sucks my skin! now i bet you cant get schrick manifold gaskets now!! VR6Pete 1 Link to post Share on other sites
ssaunders 199 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 try here, mine came in a few dayshttp://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/VR6+dichtung+Schaltsaugrohr+SCHRICK.htmalso when i took mine to Vince for tuning he said it was pinking at high revs, so i would suggest a remap.good lucksteve Link to post Share on other sites
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