dom.joy 87 Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Thinking about a little engine overhaul on my golf and hoping for some advice. The chains are starting to rattle so I'm thinking of doing them and I might as well do some other bits whilst it's apart. So far my list is;ChainsChain guidesHead gasketClutchFlywheel (possibly lightened)Crack pipeThermostat and housingOil cooler/seals (maybe external w/ thermostat)Plugs and leadsAnyone think of anything I've missed (probably something really obvious) or and tips, hints or links worth a read?Thanks in advance Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 (edited) The obvious things include new set of stretch bolts for the flywheel, pressure plate and head? You need special 12 point spline bits to undo the drive shafts, head bolts and flywheel bolts and they're all different sized, the clutch plate bolts are an odd size, either 9mm or 11mm can't remember. you will definitely need a torque wrench that will go from 10 to at least 110Nm and a breaker bar. Take the front off by undoing the big bolts behind the indicators and the 4 bolts at the slam panel edges, it will make the whole thing about 58 times easier.Ps If like me you are OCD about putting a clean engine back in and it's in as mucky and bad as mine was you should buy every container of cleaning and degreasing product you can get hold of in your town and a pallet of kitchen roll lol Edited April 23, 2014 by Lukey. Link to post Share on other sites
Therusterman 59 Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 What Lukey said, did this last year, don't rush it! Link to post Share on other sites
dom.joy 87 Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Spot on thanks mate. I need to get my head around it all and do some reading. Between me and some mates I'm sure it's do-able. Need to get the aircon system discharged too Link to post Share on other sites
abvsean 32 Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 just finishing up doing mine just as above really but i bought a roll of sealable sandwhich bags,what you take off bag it and write on it where there for and put them in free cardboard boxes you get from the supermarket because its too easy fot things to go missin and you wont remember everything no matter how hard you try. If you pull the head is it worth rebuilding it while its off? not that much more of a job.youll need a sump gasket too and beer....lots of beer daveyboy 1 Link to post Share on other sites
dom.joy 87 Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 just finishing up doing mine just as above really but i bought a roll of sealable sandwhich bags,what you take off bag it and write on it where there for and put them in free cardboard boxes you get from the supermarket because its too easy fot things to go missin and you wont remember everything no matter how hard you try.If you pull the head is it worth rebuilding it while its off? not that much more of a job.youll need a sump gasket too and beer....lots of beerGood idea. Will tape up and label all connectors too. What is required to rebuild the head?And I will do sump and sump bolts aswell Link to post Share on other sites
abvsean 32 Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 sump bolts depend on how much of bar steward getting the existing ones out,i had to replace mine. head depends really on its face,they get pitted on the water channels,mine needed refacing.exhaust guides wear excessively too as they get so hot so maybe worth doing those while its at the machinistsnew valve stem oil seals but you will need a deep reaching spring compressor some lapping paste and about 750ml of elbow grease its easy building it up though done it on alot of cars over the years just get the machine shop to do the donkey work but they prob would strip and rebuild it depends on your budget, Link to post Share on other sites
dom.joy 87 Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Thanks. Gives me more to research. All helpful stuff Link to post Share on other sites
CALICO 130 Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Don't forget to buy a new Tensioner mine had partially seized Link to post Share on other sites
dom.joy 87 Posted April 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Don't forget to buy a new Tensioner mine had partially seizedOn the airbox side?or chain tensioner? Link to post Share on other sites
CALICO 130 Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Tensioner bolts into the back of the head /block to tension your chains Link to post Share on other sites
Therusterman 59 Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Head over to the vw vortex, I found a guide on there going through step by step how to do the chains, I also found a guide on here on gearbox removal. I read through both of those a few times and they were a massive help showing me what to do. One other tip is to put bolts back in what they came out of if possible, so you don't put them in the wrong place. On that note, one thing to look out for is when you remove the gearbox, make triple sure the bolts go back in the correct place, some are longer than others, and its possible to puncture the water jacket of the block! Link to post Share on other sites
dom.joy 87 Posted April 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Tensioner bolts into the back of the head /block to tension your chainsCheers. Already in my watch list on eBay where I'm trying to keep track of what to buy (not necessarily to buy on eBay) Link to post Share on other sites
dom.joy 87 Posted April 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Head over to the vw vortex, I found a guide on there going through step by step how to do the chains, I also found a guide on here on gearbox removal. I read through both of those a few times and they were a massive help showing me what to do.One other tip is to put bolts back in what they came out of if possible, so you don't put them in the wrong place. On that note, one thing to look out for is when you remove the gearbox, make triple sure the bolts go back in the correct place, some are longer than others, and its possible to puncture the water jacket of the block!Awesome thanks mate Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 For the gearbox bolts I wrapped some masking tape around them and biro'd on them like 12 o'clock, 2 o'clock, 10 o'clock. Take pics of the wiring and connectors too it makes it basically fool proof. While you've got it all off it's a perfect chance to send the injectors off for a service, mr injector is a good quick service. Link to post Share on other sites
michael5556 247 Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Take not e of which gearbox bolt goes where. If you put the wrong one back at the top you can burst a water jacket Link to post Share on other sites
dom.joy 87 Posted April 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Looking into doing cams aswell but it may all have to wait as cams are pricey new Link to post Share on other sites
abvsean 32 Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Head over to the vw vortex, I found a guide on there going through step by step how to do the chains, I also found a guide on here on gearbox removal. I read through both of those a few times and they were a massive help showing me what to do. One other tip is to put bolts back in what they came out of if possible, so you don't put them in the wrong place. On that note, one thing to look out for is when you remove the gearbox, make triple sure the bolts go back in the correct place, some are longer than others, and its possible to puncture the water jacket of the block! can you really???iv not checked which ones go where,i hope it aint punctured!! Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Take them out and put them back in one at a time, if you get wet, then you did it wrong Link to post Share on other sites
dom.joy 87 Posted April 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 All very helpful. Was going to throw some cams into the works as well but will need to save longer for that Link to post Share on other sites
abvsean 32 Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 (edited) ill wear my wellies then lukey!! domjoy the more work you do yourself the more money you can spend on cams and goodies,think mine were 450 for reprofiled cams and new followers Edited April 24, 2014 by abvsean Link to post Share on other sites
dom.joy 87 Posted April 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 I'd like to attempt everything myself besides the head work. I'm going to keep an eye out for cans and hang on for a little. But the work will start if I see the signs of HG or chain rattle gets worse Link to post Share on other sites
CALICO 130 Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Chain rattle might not get worse the guides or chain might just snap. Link to post Share on other sites
abvsean 32 Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 yeah what calico said then you loose everything.Heads arent hard fella if your able to wield a spanner Link to post Share on other sites
Sump_slammer 23 Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 It probably goes without saying, but only use genuine valve stem seals!!! And head gasket. I thought I could get away with euro car parts head hasket set... That was the worst thing you can do! Brand new valve stem seals leak and the rocker gasket was nowhere near right! Because of this im striping it down again. What I lernt was if a jobs worth doing its worth doing properly! Lukey. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
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